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2000 Chevrolet Blazer LT, Viper 4706V Remote Start


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cooterjenkins 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: October 23, 2019
Location: Wyoming, United States
Posted: November 22, 2021 at 3:55 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote cooterjenkins
I'm installing the Viper 4706v remote start in my 2000 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer LT.
After researching here and elsewhere, I've got the unit completely installed and programmed, but I cannot get a the Viper to send a crank signal. I have to do the troubleshooting procedures in the book still, but was hoping someone would take a look at my connections and make sure I didn't miss anything or connect something incorrectly.
The remote start harness (8-pin) and the auxiliary/shutdown harness (24-pin) have multiple wires in common and are tied together. Pink/White-Pink/White (IGN2), Pink-Pink (IGN1), Orange-Orange (ACC), Violet-Violet/Yellow (Starter Output)
One other note, I think I've decided that the lock/unlock inputs in the truck are (-) and the Viper outputs are (+), neither of them function at this time connected directly. I think I need to change the inputs from (-) to (+) by utilizing the relay wiring diagrams on this site.
Thanks in advance for any help.
2000 Chevrolet Blazer LT, Viper 4706V Remote Start -- posted image.
2000 Chevrolet Blazer LT, Viper 4706V Remote Start -- posted image.
2000 Chevrolet Blazer LT, Viper 4706V Remote Start -- posted image.
kreg357 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: November 23, 2021 at 6:43 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
The 4706V's thin (-) 200 mA ignition outputs are not used / needed for your install and definitely should not be connected to the thick (+) ignition wire outputs. Disconnect them quickly and pray you didn't brick your Viper 4706V. Two different polarities here.
As for your door lock issue, the Blazer's locks are Type A which requires a (+) signal. The 4706V only outputs a (-) signal. You will need relays or a Directed 451M module to make the polarity conversion.
Soldering is fun!
cooterjenkins 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: October 23, 2019
Location: Wyoming, United States
Posted: November 24, 2021 at 11:56 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote cooterjenkins
Thanks for the info kreg.
I disconnected all the (-) 200mA thin ignition outputs, leaving behind only the heavy gauge wires connected to the ignition harness. I was confused by the manual when it states that the thin wires "work in conjunction with" a wire in the heavy gauge harness. Nevertheless, they are now disconnected.
I used the Type A door locks relay diagram from this site, now the door lock/unlock is fully functional.
Still cannot get a crank signal from the Viper. The manual suggests disconnecting the tach wire input to see if the vehicle will crank due to some vehicles having a voltage spike preventing the crank signal from being sent. No luck.
I'm confident that the unit is still fully functional as I was able to go into program mode to verify that I was programmed to automatic transmission mode (option 2, menu 3) and tachometer mode (option 4, menu 3).
The 2-way remote shows the sequence and it acts like the vehicle has started, but after about 10 seconds goes by, the 2-way says "Remote Start Error" but no further information.
I metered the violet starter output wire at the harness while plugged into the viper during remote start (after 2 seconds), no voltage. I left the DMM on the violet starter output wire during crank with the key and got voltage there.
I thought I could do testing with this thing before defeating the VATS Passlock II with a resistor and relearn procedure by just leaving a key in the ignition, as Passlock simply reads the resistance across the key when it's in the ignition. Maybe that's not the case?
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,529
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: New York, United States
Posted: November 24, 2021 at 3:11 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote kreg357
Passlock2 has the resistor in the ignition cylinder ( not the key itself ). The vehicle should crank without Passlock2 bypassed. It might even run for a second until the fuel in the rail is gone. You don't want to do this much because the vehicle will end up going into Tamper Mode and disable starting for ~ 10 minutes.
Did you do a Tach Learn?
You could try setting it to Virtual Tach or Fixed Time Crank and see if it cranks.
What usually happens when the (-) 200mA ignition outputs are incorrectly connected is the module gets killed. With the Violet Starter indications you mentioned it looks like it's dead, Do the instrument cluster lights come on at the beginning of the R/S attempt? Both of the IGN's and the ACC should go to +12V, then the ACC drops to 0V and the Starter goes to +12V to cranking engine. You could test all of those Viper outputs too. Double check the four Viper +12V inputs between the fuse and the 4706.
Soldering is fun!

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