2005 Jeep Liberty, DEI 4806V With DEI 3100 Alarm? …5706V

HUGE, HUGE, HUGE thanks to the above folks that have posted. You've set me on the right path. Just wish I'd come here BEFORE buying a $200 RS/KE system I have utterly no use for as none of my vehicles came with more than an immobilizer."Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"

I want to add a blinking dash LED a'la oldschool car alarms, center of the dash.... Obviously this would come off the GWA output. is there a specific LED I need so it's not just solid-on? I miss the old alarms that had a simple plug-in LED. I know this can't be too difficult. The Control Center LED isn't cutting it as a deterrent. I may also work these into the parking lights, not sure."Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"

This thread links to a related tech tip: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=143843 While in theory you could use a relay to add parking lights, this is definitely not recommended as it would draw down the battery significantly quicker.

Hey, thanks for replying! I get what you're saying, but I must not have stated my idea properly. I was thinking about adding a small LED to the parking light enclosures, and blinking that. Though, on second thought, it would probably attract extra attention. -off to check the link you posted, now-"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"

Had some delays on this. It's about 3/4 installed, lots of other issues slowing me down. Couldbt find relays, had to order more. Likewise computer-save test light, etc... And then everyone and the dog was sick last weekend. Excuses, excuses... Back at it now. About 10 more connections to make, half of which involve relays. I can manage the relays, they're easy. I am to the point of needing to wire in the doors. There's 4 doors, into one trigger. Obviously they need to be diode-isolated. Easy enough. But the wires are giving me fits finding them. All my sources say they are at the BCM on various connectors. I'd rather just go to the wire in the harness. Surely it has to be in the footwell somewhere. My source says they are tan w/opt.stripe (ex- drivers is tan, pass is tan/white, another is tan/black,and there's another tan/w stripe as well. Well.....where?"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"

Look for purple wires for the door triggers. I remember as an installer (decades ago) I used to go to the dome light often for door triggers. However manufacturers started making them fade out which could cause issues with the alarm. Some installers would relay isolate, which would solve one problem but they would chatter extremely loud on the fade out. The solution was to either diode isolate each door trigger individually, or use a transistor instead of a relay at the dome light to interface with the alarm.

Purple? I will keep that in mind. These should be NO triggers on the doors, I assume? I know there is no pinswitch, instead it is built into the door locking mechanism itself. So presumably shows a ground when a door is open. Couple that with a need to diode isolate each of the 4 doors, I'm looking at 4 pieces of wire connecting to the alarm door trigger, each having a diode with proper orientation to ground and each of the ends of those wires going to a door trigger in the harness"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"

How about driver's door priority unlock? If I am looking at it properly, there's one wire for all the doors, lock or unlock. A different resistance is provided to trigger lock or unlock. Factory has driver's door priority unlock. But I won't be using the factory fob...."Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"

There is a separate relay for driver's door unlock. If you can identify which relay this is at the back of the BCM you can pulse a ground to 85. Since this circuit is inside the BCM, the easiest way to do this is probably soldering a wire directly to terminal 85 on the relay. Otherwise just relay isolate the tan/light blue wire for the driver's door lock actuator. You can get this wire at the BCM, connector 2, pin 8. Cut this wire and connect terminal 87a to the BCM side, terminal 30 to the actuator side. Connect terminals 86 and 87 to a fused positive 12 volt source. Terminal 85 will be your negative trigger.