Remote stater won't run with AC on?

I've finally got a CrimeStopper RS-800III installed and a DEI 555L bypass module.

When I remote start the car with the AC off it starts and runs fine.  When I remote start with the AC/Heater on it starts and dies after 1-2 seconds without a Theft light.

The book for the RS-800 seems to exchange the "Accessory" and "Ignition 2" outputs at will.  I was under the impression that the AC power dropped out during crank and then came back.  Right now I have the Gray wire hooked into the ACC circuit and the 2nd Ignition being powered off a relay. 

Here's the diagram, does it matter which wire I use for ACCESSORY and Ignition 2? They seem to list them together.

Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the reply Powerslave0, but I think you read my problem wrong.

The problem is when I *do* turn the AC/Heat on before remote starting it won't stay running more than 1 second.  I don't expect to be able to turn the AC/Heat on remotely, but I do expect the car to run when I leave them on and remote start.  Like I said above, If I turn the AC/Heat off before remote starting it runs and stays running.

Chris, I tired that but the remote starter didn't shut down.  I did notice that when I remote started, then took over with the key and hit the brake the clock (led) went BRIGHT as if kicking off the remote starter was a big strain off the battery.

I metered the 12v leads while off and they were 11.46, while running they were 12.48.  I pulled the battery off and put it on a charger to see if maybe that will help.  It was reading at less than 25amps on the charger.   Hopefully that will fix the problem.

The car is a 97 Grand AM.  I have 2 ignition wires (Pink/White) and I have a relay to power the white.  I also have the Accessory ciruit (Orange) powered off the Gray wire on the remote starter.  I metered all these on a successful remote start (w/o) the AC on to make sure they were all 3 being powered up and they are.

I didn't really want to run it in tach mode b/c it's working fine w/o the AC being on and running a tach wire is alot of work.  If a fully charged battery fixes the problem I'll be happy.  If the strain is too much for the battery later on I'll upgrade when it starts happening again.

I'll report back if it's still doing it after the charge.

Thanks for the replies.

OK, the battery is fully charged and I just tested it with the Vent (not AC) on and it does the same thing.  Starts for about 1 second (or less) then shuts off and locks the doors.

I don't really think running a tach wire will help since it runs fine with the AC completely off.  What could possibly cause this?  I tested and the AC (orange) and 2nd Ignition (white) are being powered up.  The orange drops out during the crank as it's supposed to.  Once it's running you can flip the AC on and it says running just fine, but that's kind of pointless.

When it shuts off everything turns off (lights, dash, ect) and the doors lock.  It's just as if the key was turned off.   Best I can tell the remote starter shuts off also, because the voltage stops. I did find the brown (3rd ignition) wire up there and asked around about it.  Everyone told me that it wasn't required for a remote start install, that it only controls the radio and clock.  On my sheet from WireMagic it's not even listed at all.

The AC/Heat powers one just fine, and cuts out during crank just like it's supposed to.  After the car is running you can turn it to AC w/o using the key and it runs fine.  It only happens when you start it wthe AC already turned on.

I'll look arund and see if I can find the tach wire.  I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for in terms of "White PCM behind Driver's Dash".  I don't have the whole dash out, just the steering column and the access panel below it.

Thanks for all your help.