Honda Accord alarm problems

Hello, I have a Honda Accord Areodeck 1996 (European model). The car was fitted with a Serpi Star GR44 alarm and MK 125 immobiliser. The alarm had packed up, but the immobilser worked OK with a 'touch key'. I brought a new alarm with remote locking etc and wanted to fit this. I took out all the wiring of the old Serpi Star items and joined original wires which had been cut from its installation. A RED / white wire - ignition I think, a yellow/white wire, (same block as indicators & park light) a yellow/black wire in door sill - fuel pump? I fitted the new alarm - which seems to work OK, but in the process of taking out the old and fitting the new alarm, the battery had discharged! also when I used jump leads , the starter turns the engine over OK but it will not start. The car used to start easily before...What have I done? any ideas?. I am getting a wiring diagram from Honda, hopefully I can trace a possible missed wire or something... ThanksTim Taylor

Sounds like the starter kill ( immobilizer ) is a normally open type. Try reconnecting the starter wire to each other instead of through the immobilizer.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Also, may be that the original installer interrupted the ignition wire instead of the starter wire; actually many immobilizer systems cut ign as well as start. If your ign wire is dropping out, your fuel pump is not getting power and therefore will keep turning over, but never start.

Is the fuel pump wire hooked up correctly? Did you check ALL fuses? It could just be something as simple as the fuel pump fuseCruisin Security And Sounds

Thanks for for all your suggestions. I found the problem - 2 blown fuses and a dud battery. Now have a new battery, new fuses and alarm is working just fine!Tim Taylor

Hello, I'm after some advice.I have fitted an alarm to my Honda Accord and works just fine. There is an option in the alarm to change the Starter Kill trigger, it can either be triggered when the ignition switch is turned to ACC or when the alarm is armed, i.e. the coil in the starter kill relay is constantly energised - would this not drain the car's battery over a period of time when armed?Tim Taylor

Someboady correct me if I'm wrong (I know you will ;) )Most of the time when you go to "crank" the car over the ACC wire does NOT have power (cuts out). So if you do hook the starter kill relay to this wire the car will never start. There are 2 methods of installing starter kills.1 - Which is suppose to be the better and correct method is hooking up pin 85 to the IGN wire and pin 86 to the alm output. This way the relay only energizes if the ign swtich is moved to the "ign or crank" positions AND the alm is outputing. The relay won't get + power till then. 2 - Not liked as much. COnnecting pin 85 to the "switch" side of the start wire itself (also jumpered to 30) and 86 going to the alm. In this method the relay get it's + from the starter wire itself and only flips when the key is turned to the "crank" position AND the alm is outputing.

floaterr is correct. Relays draw about 1/10 amp. Having relay(s) stay on when the car is off is bad. You might get away with one relay wired like that if your battery is good, the weather is warm, and you drive your car every day.....but remove any one of those factors and your car is going to be dead one day.As far as floaterr's starter kill scenarios, either method will work just fine. #1 is indeed the more popular method, but that is probably because it's how the alarm's instructions say to do it, and some alarms even come pre-wired that way.

I've been using option two from floaters reply... I haven't had any issues and find it easier.... so there.  Six to one, half dozen to the other. 

Hello anybody out there, I need some help & advice...I have fitted an alarm to my car which works great, the only gripe is when I lock or unlock the car using the remote, the siren makes a load 'chirp' - once when locked, twice when unlocked.There is a 'positive pulse' (approx 0.5 sec's) from the alarm to course this. Is it possible to fit a component or device between the alarm and siren which only gives a supply when the supply is constant (i.e. the alarm is triggered) and NOT a supply when pulsed (when locking with remote).Would some kind of timer work?Many thanks.Tim Taylor