2002 Dodge Caravan Remote Start

1. The parking lights are negative trigger thru a 2.1K ohm resistor. The headlights are negative trigger thru a 790 ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance on the wire, so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch.

2. The ACCESSORY is not a required hook up for remote start. THe AC/Heater will automatically turn on if installation of all other wires is correct.

3. The grind is because the tach wire is not correct or the unit is receiving "garbage" in the tach signal. On the 2.4L use blue/green or blue/tan. On the 3.3L/3.8L use blue/green, blue/tan or blue/orange. Otherwise if you can shorten the crank time on the RS, do so otherwise make sure that you have the correct tach wire or go to an injector ( uncommon color ) and set the RS to 1 cylinder.

4. You can make your own DRL with 2 relays. Look at this diagram :

Hey MadBanchee,

Essentially your heater problem is related to the reaction of a load on the ignition line.  I know this sounds stupid but trust me when it comes to databuss, we can get some surprises!  You said that pin 85 of the second start relay is fed by 2nd ignition out.  Instead connect it to a constant ground out upon remote starting and let us know what the results are. 

Look at this post:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=1&TopicID=1672

Well thanks for all the input, guys - I worked on it a little this weekend and this is what I came up with:

It probably took me longer to make this little drawing than the time it took to wire it up!  All I had was Paintbrush and had to find something to convert it from bmp for the post.  I hope this helps others with the same problems I had.

The alarm module I have is a Commando EZ-2200 and it only has one start (crank) output.  I found the diode was necessary because when the car was started by key it would energize the relay and put the 180 ohm resistor in parallel to what is already in the switch and the car would not start properly and in fact sometimes not all.  No more starter grind either!  I'm glad I had the thing sitting around!  and mostly, I'm glad I bumped into the12volt.com!

By the way, about the headlights.....  the resistor values for this vehicle that seem to be posted all over the web as being 2.1K for parking and 790 ohm for headlights seem to incorrect!  In fact, 2.1K turns on headlights and 5.6K turns on the parking lights.  I do not know what the 790 ohm does - I didn't try it.  I obtained this information from Bulldog Alarms web site - Thanks Bulldog!  And thanks all to you guys as well - mission complete!  Well almost.  I still want to install a remote window module but that will be on another weekend and I'll start a new thread.

Hey   MadBanchee,

A diode inline is a solution for feedback.  But I was wondering about the diagram http://madbanchee.gotdns.com/images/ignition.jpg .  What size diode did you use and does it heat up when you do repeated starts? 

Hey lonelygvr4

There are separate door triggers for each door, they are all in connector 3 at the BCM. The driver door trigger is purple in pin 6, the passenger door is PURPLE / white in pin 7, the left sliding door is PURPLE / gray in pin 8, and the right sliding door is purple / YELLOW in pin 5. Use all four and diode isolate each.  The BCM is in the drivers kick panel near the parking brake. It has 5 plugs in it, one 6 pin plug and four 34 pin plugs.

In the driver's kick, there's a yellow/red, positive trigger, and it catches all doors.  The only downsides are that A. it is affected by the domelight delay, and B. This wire won't come on if the driver has purposely disabled the domelight using the switch on the dashboard.

Positive parking lights is WHITE/ brown in the driver's kick, and we've done hundreds this way with no trouble.  There are two WHITE/ browns; only one of them is parking lights.

WHITE/ tan brake wire can be found here also.