CS 423, Arming Problems?

Sorry for the delay... had to work... anywho, I finally moved the tach wire to the two pin harness at the distributor, attaching it to the blue wire. I relearned the tach and tried to RS... Still turns on, no turn over or crank, then shuts off and enters protection mode. Tried adjusting the tach... tried RS and the same thing happens again. Is my starter wire int he right place? I've spliced into the wire right before it enter the harness above the fuse box... is that the correct location? Does placing the wire after the harness make a difference? Andy

Colonie, NY

It seems to me that you are at a point where you need to test a few basic things. First test to make sure your RS is putting out 12v+ on the starter output when it attempts to remote start. right after you test that, leave your probes on the RS starter output wire and try to start the car with the key. see if you get 12 volts on that wire. If you do then you know that your RS starter output is connected to your vehicles starter wire. However, if you have installed an anti-grind relay, you need to make sure that you put the rs starter output wire on the starter side as opposed to the key side of the starter wire. One way to make sure that you are getting this right is to remove the anti-grind relay by cutting the wires and reconnecting the factory starter wire. So to recap, if your RS is giving 12v+ when trying to start, and that same wire is getting 12v+ when the key is used to start the car, and you have aproperly installed anti-grind relay or you dont have one at all, then your RS should engage the starter. It wont necessarily turn the engine over, but it should try to start it. So if what you say is true that the RS wil not attempt to crank the engine, then one of those three things needs to be fixed. Let us know how the testing goes.J Rilla

Owner/Installer

I STILL can't get this RS unit to work! I've been working on this for weeks, and this forum has been very helpful, but still no luck! I'm looking for some more advice in a last ditch attempt to avoid having to pay someone to put a whole different starter in... So here goes:The starter is installed. The starter will "arm" correctly for a manual vehicle... meaning I can remove the keys, the car keeps running, and the starter will shut off the car and arm itself for RS. The starter will lock and unlock doors correctly. The only problem is that it won't start the car! When I attempt to RS, the car turns on, the dash lights up, the heater fan runs... then the starter shuts off the car and enters "protection mode". The engine never turns over. I have followed the instructions for this problem. The manual states that the problem is with the tach... I have moved the wire, I have relearned the tach, I've adjusted the tach... all ending with the starter entering "protection mode" and not starting the car!I'm totally at a loss... I've tried all the advice that you guys (and gals) have graciously supplied without any success. Here is what I have hooked up on the unit... I'm hoping this will help!J1-Pin 1: Attached to WHITE wire in ignition harnessJ1-Pin 2: Attached to YELLOW wite in iginiton harnessJ1-Pin 3: Attached to BLACK/ WHITE wire in igntion harnessJ1-Pin 4: Attached to groundJ1-Pin 5: Attached to BLACK / YELLOW wire in ignition harnessJ1-Pin 6: Attached to WHITE wire in ignition harnessJ2-Pin 1: Attached to RED / BLACK wire at fuse panelJ2-Pin 2: NOT connectedJ2-Pin 3: Attached to HAND BRAKE wireJ2-Pin 4: NOT connectedJ2-Pin 5: NOT connectedJ2-Pin 6: NOT connectedJ2-Pin 7: NOT connectedJ2-Pin 8: NOT connectedJ2-Pin 9: Connected to GREEN / WHITE wire at taped 2 wireJ2-Pin 10: Connected to GREEN/ RED wire at taped 2 wireJ2-Pin 11: Connected to BLUE/GREEN wire at steering colJ2-Pin 12: Connected to GREEN/ WHT wire at break switchJ2-Pin 13: Connected to BLUE wire at distributorJ2-Pin 14: Connected to Hood Pin swtich and is SPLIT and connected to door swtich via a diodeI have NO relays... and I wonder if this is the source of the problem!ANY input or advice would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!Andy

Colonie, NY

OK, It looks like you need to bypass the clutch. before you do so, here is how you need to test if this the for sure the problem. First of all. Start the car with the key, pull the ebrake, leave the car in neutral, press the start button and wait a second then pull the key out. (This is all what you have already done before) Now instead of getting out, just open the door for a few seconds and then close it. Now shut the car off with the remote and the lights should flash 2 times slowly. Now wait a few seconds and then push the clutch to the floor and press the start button on the remote. If the car starts, then you need to bypass the clutch.Bypass the clutch by testing the wires at the switch above the clutch, then simulating what happens by using a (-) when running from the RS, or you may need a relay. I dont know how Honda clutch switches work, but here is an exaple of a possibility: 2 wires at the switch, one is constant ground and when the clutch is depressed the wires are connected, so to bypass all you would need to do is send a constant ground signal to that other wire during a remote start. You could use the GREEN / WHITE wire (which is the (-) out when running wire) if this is how your switch tests. You may need a relay if the GREEN / WHITE wire does not have a strong enough output. The switch may be entirely different than the example I just gave,in which case you would need to test it and simulate it.J Rilla

Owner/Installer

HOLY MONKEY! You were exactly right! I held the clutch in and the son of a gun started with NO problem! THANK YOU JESUS! (and J. Rilla, who right now IS my god)I'm gonna go try to bypass the clutch with the advice you gave. If anyone has any ideas on how to bypass the clutch in a honda, let me know! Thanks SO MUCH!!!!! Andy

Colonie, NY

I looked at some info that said it is positive, so you would need a relay. Test it to be sure though. One wire would be 12v+ constant, and the other would be 12v+ constant only when the clutch is depressed. If it test like this, then set up a relay like so: Pin 30 to the wire that reads 12v+ when the clutch is depressed. Pin 87 and 86 to the wire that reads 12v+ constant Pin 85 to the WHITE/ Green wire from the RS. Ummmmmm............ Here is some BAD advice: If you dont have a relay and really dont want to go get one, you CAN just permanently bypass the clutch switch by connecting the two wires at the switch. Like I said this is bad advice, but personally I wouldnt have a problem with doing this on my own car. I never would since it is so easy to bypass it with a relay, but it wouldn't phase me since the three manual transmission vehicles I ever owned never had a clutch switch from the start, and I never had any problems. If you do this, just put a jumper wire across the two wires so that you can just cut the jumber wire if you ever uninstall the starter, or decide to install a relay.J Rilla

Owner/Installer

Ok, so I'm playing with the clutch... there are 2 switches... I know one is for the cruise. Anyway, I've been attempting to test the wires. I can't find a wire from either switch that gives me a constant 12v. I only found one wire, which is "pinkish orangish" like in color, and gives a 12v reading when the clutch is pressed.Andy

Colonie, NY

RIP RIP It's dead... the Directstart CS423 is dead... I don't know what happened... I bypassed the clutch successfully, it was working great! I was SO happy... I was just getting ready to finalize all the wiring and the next thing I know, there is smoke pouring from the RS unit! Thank god I was a fireman! I'm just thankful it was only the RS unit and not my baby! I don't know what happened... it just went up in flames... all this way and it ends like this! Well I guess I have to give in and leave remote starters to all you professionals out there. I can't thank everyone enough for all the help you've given me! I guess I'll just stick to installing radios as a hobby... Andy

Colonie, NY

What Happened? How did you bypass the clutch? You may be able to repair the unit with a little solder, but I doubt it, if you say the smoke poured out of the unit.    J Rilla

Owner/Installer

Nah... it's beyond repair. I'm good with electronics (despite recent events), and the board and two of the circuits were toasted. Big 'ol burn mark in the board.... I done fried 'er up good!   I don't know what did it... but again, thank goodness it was only the RS!Andy

Colonie, NY