98 Honda CRV remote starter

There is a WHITE/ red wire in the drivers kick panel that will show positive when you hit the lock button on the remote or the switch on the door. That is probably the wire you want to hook up to. The GREEN / WHITE and GREEN/ orange (-) trigger wires might not show anything when you press lock and unlock on the factory remote. They might only work when pushing the switch on the door. I won't get into explaining why. Have you run into the problem yet that the factory keyless remote won't work once you remote start the vehicle? The idle sounding funny is not normal. If you wired the starter wire to constant or ignition it would be making a hideous grinding noise, not a whining sound.

JWorm wrote: There is a WHITE/ red wire in the drivers kick panel that will show positive when you hit the lock button on the remote or the switch on the door. That is probably the wire you want to hook up to. The GREEN / WHITE and GREEN/ orange (-) trigger wires might not show anything when you press lock and unlock on the factory remote. They might only work when pushing the switch on the door. I won't get into explaining why.

I will try it this weekend. It sounds like the WHITE/ red wire is the one I want since I want + or -12V when I hit the lock button on the factory keyless entry.

JWorm wrote: The idle sounding funny is not normal. If you wired the starter wire to constant or ignition it would be making a hideous grinding noise, not a whining sound.

I agree because I have installed 2 other remote starters in Hondas and the idle was the same whether or not I start it with a key or with a remote starter. After talking with bulldog tech support, they say that I may have interchanged the Starter wire with either the Accessory wire or one of the Ignition wires. I will test each one with a voltmeter this weekend. Thanks!

daniel2002p wrote: Can you be more specific.  I am having a hard time trying to understand what you are trying to communicate.

Okay, after my "installation" I hit the start on the bulldog remote. The car started fine, but the engine idle sounded abnormal. There was a louder than normal high pitched sound coming from the engine. Also, the car was revving about 500 rpm higher than normal. I know this because as soon as I put the key in to override the bulldog starter, the idle drops back down to a normal sound and tach reading drops also(800-1000 rpms). I am thinking that the high pitched sound is from the "starter" being left in the "on" (continuous power) position, which would be consistent if I had reversed some wires. Or, would I get a constant grinding. I'm confused.

You have to relearn the TACH signal to the unit. If the unit has a fine adjustment feature, try to lower the crank time on the unit so it's not dragging the starter. Make sure that when you learn the tach, the vehicle has been running for at least 5-10 minutes to reach it's lowest idle RPM.Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Velocity Motors wrote: You have to relearn the TACH signal to the unit. If the unit has a fine adjustment feature, try to lower the crank time on the unit so it's not dragging the starter. Make sure that when you learn the tach, the vehicle has been running for at least 5-10 minutes to reach it's lowest idle RPM.

The unit I have is set on "tachless" mode. My only issue now is still the idling. After I remote start the vehicle it starts normally but the idle is slightly noisier and revs higher than when the car is started with the key. I tested all my wires and everything is correct. The only ones I could have possibly interchanged are ignition-1 and ignition-2 wires (this shouldn't make a difference). I have installed 3 other remote starters in Honda's and each one idled the same whether I used the key or the remote starter. Is the idling normal? Any ideas? Thanks.

Try using the TACH wire instead of the tachless. Can't hurt and if it works great ! If not, set it back to TACHLESSJeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

You are looking for the wrong wires. The wires that will show you 12 volts when you are using the factory transmitters are the lock and unlock motor wires. You need to be looking for the wires that come off of the switch which will be negative. They are in the drivers kick panel in a green plug. Many alarms dont have a strong enough negative pulse to drive these wires so you may need a relay to boost the ground. But believe me they are in the kick!

Hi all! I am installing a remote starter. The car has 2 accessory wires that need to be energized. The remote starter unit only has 1 accessory wire output. How can I hook up the 2 accessory wires to the 1 accessory output on the R/S. If I hook them up straight something will probably fry. Please advise, can I do this with a relay? If so please show me that way. Gratefully yours, Lorenzo

Yes you need a relayPin 30 to 2nd Acc wirePin 87 to 12v+ fusedPin 85 from (-) out when running from RSPin 86 from 1st AccJ Rilla

Owner/Installer

Use this relay config for the 2nd ACC: http://www.velocitymotorsport.com/images/install_notes/2nd_accessory_relay.jpgJeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA