I have a 12in Omega Sub Tube in my '89 Celica GT along with a Kenwood kdc- the kdc maybe wrong but the numbers after it are 2011s it's probablly about 3yrs old, and it's a great head unit! All my mp3 cds play in it, and the green lighting matchs my dash lighting, theonly thing that was really wrong with it was the faceplate kept popping off, it was just worn out, so I superglued it on with no problems. I've had to replace the 2front speakers with some Pioneer's that are like 3 1/2"'s and they sound great...the factory bass resonators right under them work great, and I still have the original 14yr old rear speakers...they pump bass for thier age! Anyway the Omega tube is self contained with a 225watt amp. it came with I'm guessing 12gauge wiring because the inline fuse was 15amps. I think I need at least a 10 gauge, 8 would be a little steep, and a 20amp fuse. Regardless of the tube's weak power supply, the unit was working. I was afraid to hook it up to my rear speakers fearing I would blow them, but as it turns out the amp's designed to run off them, so after hooking them up I have an incredible change in what i thought was bass...you see I had it hooked up like that for a month thinking that maybe my amp was just weak like a 100wats or less, an d that little boost was as good as it got, after I hooked the speakers up, man I was I floored, everything was excellent for about 2weeks, then one day my amp wouldn't turn off for no apparent reason. Everything worked fine, then it wouldn't turn off. So i decided to remedy the problem with a killswitch. I have my 3 blacklights hooked up to a killswitch so it seemed logical. After mounting it, I took it on a test run...the amp turned off with the killswitch, then turned back on after a few sec. to warm up, everything seemed fine then I turned the volume up pretty loud and I heard a terrible cracking like I tore the rear speakers, I hit the ATT vol. cut button, then hit it again, there was still thump but it was greatlly diminished, my amp was out but my rear speakers were fine. I tried to re-straight line the power line, but the amp would still not come on. I checked the ground, it was still good but no spark, the remote was fine, my antenna still worked, but I still redid the connection to make sure, everything is hooked up right, the only thing i can think to do is buy some 10gauge speaker wire, and redo the powerline. I would like to put the kill switch back in, but i'm not sure if i have cut the ignition line instead of the remote, but i'd rather just keep the remote splice, can i still put a kill switch in? what's the reasoning for conneting to the ignition line? I realize it's to have constant power that you can just turn off, but what if you wanted to turn the sub on/off while driving, if you're spliced into the power line in the harness won't the head unti turn off w/ the sub when you hit the killswitch? My one other concern is the fact the bass tube comes with a wire harness...instead of hooking each wire into the amp you just hook the power and remote into the wires coming off the harness and plug it in....so if i replce my dinky little 12 gauge power line with 10gauge and but the fuse from 15 to 20 is that going to damage anything? I mean the grounf wire is only 12 and there will be a few inches of 12 gauge power line when it's all said and done. I can't find a replacement harness, nor do I have the money. If the thicker powerline doesn't work, the amp must be shot, but how is that so if it wasn't even getting enough power? the fuse wasn't blown, it just quit working.
I'm worst at what I do best
Topic Closed)
Members
Search
Register
Login
Printable version
