radio on until door open

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geepherder

Platinum - Posts: 3,668

This member consistently provides reliable information

Joined: October 27, 2003

Posted: January 03, 2004 at 10:18 AM / IP Logged

Superchuckles, this is exactly what I needed. I knew this would be simple, but you know how you get after working on something for a while and can't figure it out. You da Man! Thanks.

geepherder

Platinum - Posts: 3,668

Joined: October 27, 2003

Posted: January 03, 2004 at 6:29 PM / IP Logged

Wow. I got a small assortment of caps to wire in- hooked it up, and the pop was still there. After racking my brain some more, I found a bad (open) diode across one of the coils. Problem solved. Thanks for your help- the ideas got my gears turning again.

lil_joker2k2

Copper - Posts: 119

Joined: June 19, 2002

Location: United States

Posted: January 03, 2004 at 11:59 PM / IP Logged

I tried mine the way its in the site, ive never had any problems whatsoever with anything. No pop noises, nothing

LittleBill

Copper - Posts: 72

Joined: May 16, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: January 05, 2004 at 4:00 PM / IP Logged

what i don't understand, is why people use the 3rd one, i used the second and everything ran perfectly, don't really know y people use the 3rd one, if ur worried about backfeeding, just run like a 10 amp diode, inline on the accessory wire

geepherder

Platinum - Posts: 3,668

Joined: October 27, 2003

Posted: January 06, 2004 at 11:08 AM / IP Logged

The third relay allows the radio to play while the key is on but the door is open- if you go to check something under the hood, once you open the door, the radio cuts out regardless of key position. As for the 10 amp diode, that wouldn't work. You want to prevent the cutoff voltage from reaching the radio. If you forward bias it, voltage is still able to reach the radio, and you can't reverse bias it since the radio wouldn't have power. Installing diodes across the coils will prevent this. The cathode goes to positive (+) side of coil, anode to negative side (-). Now when your equipment powers down, the EMF isn't searching for a relief path similar to your ignition coil. The diodes provide this path.

superchuckles

Copper - Posts: 89

Joined: December 29, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: January 10, 2004 at 8:36 AM / IP Logged

actually, if you have the relays wired correctly, it wont shut power off to the radio when the key is on and door open using the two relay setup. looking at the picture, the relay on the left, pin 86 is supposed to be tied to the ignition acc wire, 86 is also tied to 87. when the ignition is on, reguardless of wether or not the left relay is in the energized or de-energized condition, the radio will recieve power when wired that way. putting the diode in for isolation purposes (to prevent the acc wire from getting power from the relay) would work as littlebill said it would. the only way it would work like you said (killing radio power when key on and door open) is if you didn't tie the left relays' pin 86 and pin 87 together. i agree with littlebill - why add yet another relay to perform something that can be done with a solid state device that is much smaller.

geepherder

Platinum - Posts: 3,668

Joined: October 27, 2003

Posted: January 10, 2004 at 8:54 PM / IP Logged

Yeah, that makes sense. When I initially did this, I had the accessory lead from the ignition harness going to 86 on the first relay with a diode, rather than a jumper from 87 to 86 to create a latch. Actually, a buddy at work dreamed this up in his head so I figured I'd give it a shot, that's when I stumbled across it on this site.

LittleBill

Copper - Posts: 72

Joined: May 16, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: January 14, 2004 at 5:40 PM / IP Logged

radio does not cut out with the door open and the key in accessory, since ur not cutting the accessory wire, i think its dumb to use relay 3, 2 works flawless for me

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radio on until door open

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