Horn Honk only when alarm is triggered?

timer relay could work too, i considered it for using peizos on the siren output, but i didnt want them to chirp on arm/disarm.

OK, I'll try my best to explain this. The first relay, you wanna wire as follows: 86---the (+) siren output wire from alarm brain 85---ground 87---+12v fused (at least a 14 guage wire 87a---not used 30---positive out to ALL sirens (including piezos) AND a jumper wire to 86 on relay#2 The second relay as follows: 86---jumpered to 30 on the 1st relay 85---ground(can also be jumpered along with 86 on relay1) 87---+12v fused (at least 14gauge) can be jumpered to 87       on relay number 1 87a---not used 30----output to terminal "x" on the two prong flasher The two prong turn signal flasher as follows: X---connect to terminal 30 on the second relay L--connect to the (+)positive horn wire in the vehicle (usually after the horn relay, or under the hood near the horn itself) On most GM cars its a thick 14ga wire under the hood in the same harness as the headlight wiring

Thanks CutDog, it makes sense how you wired it, but wouldn't all the sirens and horn still chirp on arm and disarm?

In theory, could I also just hook your your relays to the armed output instead of  the siren output?

I was in a similar situation recently and here is what I did. I have air horns hooked up to my factory horns so I didn't want them honking all the time. The way it works, the horns only honk if the doors are open and the alarm is going off. If your vehicle has delayed curtisy lights, this may not work to prevent a honk on arming. The major side benifit of this set up is that if you hear your alarm AND the horn is honking, you know your vehicle has been opened and it isn't just a false alarm. Here's how I did it (i have (+) interior lights and (-) horn trigger. If your vehicle is different then make the appropriate changes but this will give you the idea. Relay one creates a negative pulse 86 - Ground 85 - parking light output from alarm (+) 87 - to 30 of relay 2 87a - not used 30 - Ground Relay two 86 - (-) siren output from alarm 85 - (+) from door switch 87 - vehicle horn trigger 87a - not used 30 - 87 of relay 1 Note: you may need to add a diode to the siren wire. When I first hooked mine up I got a faint tone out of the siren when the doors were shut.

I was in a similar situation recently and here is what I did. I have air horns hooked up to my factory horns so I didn't want them honking all the time. The way it works, the horns only honk if the doors are open and the alarm is going off. If your vehicle has delayed courtesy lights, this may not work to prevent a honk on arming. The major side benefit of this set up is that if you hear your alarm AND the horn is honking, you know your vehicle has been opened and it isn't just a false alarm. Here's how I did it (i have (+) interior lights and (-) horn trigger. If your vehicle is different then make the appropriate changes but this will give you the idea. Relay one creates a negative pulse 86 - Ground 85 - parking light output from alarm (+) 87 - to 30 of relay 2 87a - not used 30 - Ground Relay two 86 - (-) siren output from alarm 85 - (+) from door switch 87 - vehicle horn trigger 87a - not used 30 - 87 of relay 1 Note: you may need to add a diode to the siren wire. When I first hooked mine up I got a faint tone out of the siren when the doors were shut.

No, the setup will only work when triggered by the siren wire. If triggered with the ground when armed output, it would cause the sirens to sound as soon as you armed the alarm. But you only want them to chirp when you arm it, and not sound until the alarm is triggered. So the way I have explained works perfectly. As for the horn, I initially thought that it would give a slight honk upon arming and disarming, but thats not the case. For some reason the flasher doesnt supply the horn with any volatage unless it is supplied with constant voltage. One chirp (or even several chirps in a row) is not enough to get the flasher to start flashing(honking, in this case). But the reson I ended up using two relays is as follows: When I first wired up this setup, I had the horn tied to the same relay as the sirens(relay #1) and when I pressed the horn while driving in traffic, there was feedback and the sirens would sound along with the horn. I tried a diode, but the horn used too much current. So I figured out this way with the first relay triggering a second relay, and then the second relay triggering the flasher. I've had this setup on my car for almost 5 years now with no problems, besides for the fact that about 2 years ago, the flasher started honking the horn errattically(one honk was a 1/2 second, then the next was a full second). I swapped it out, but this time putting in an electronic flasher(a bit more expensive, but more reliable). It has worked fine ever since. And to top it all off, this whole relay setup is mounted under my hood! Because thats where all my connection were to be made, thats where I put the relays. It is monted on the upper wheelwell near the sirens yet close to the horn wiring And the battery(for a +12v source) I have it wrapped in a lil bundle with 3m electrical tape, so it's basically waterproof.

hey listen up you have the programming in the menu all wrong enter the setup turn on the ignition press the valet swicth three times you going to hear a confirming tone once you here that turn off the ign then turn it back on you are going to her another confiming tone now you are in programing  mode press the valet  button five times you going to here the siren chirp six times then press the lock button on the remote till you hear the siren chirp once ok let me know i gave this to because you need itCableguy!!!