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kill door lock power when armed


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Teken 
Gold - Posts: 1,492
Gold spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2002
Location: Aruba
Posted: December 18, 2003 at 9:18 PM / IP Logged  
This is alot of work, where a very simple switch could do the very same thing.
At end of the day, your vehicle is one that opens pretty quickly with a slim jim.
Under 5 seconds to be exact. I am not trying to thwart your efforts, but would suggest that there are other things that can prove alot more effective.
1. Glass: It takes less than 1 second to shatter the glass with the proper tool, which makes no noise, and glass break detection sensors do not pick up.
A: Apply 3M barrier film to prevent the impact, and deflect the entry through the window.
2. Door Mechanism: It takes less than 5 seconds to slim jim the release lever with mechanical effort. It takes less than 2 seconds with a electronic pulser.
A: Install one of the following mechanical items. Install a metal barrier from the window sill. It will costs you exactly $3.00 for some aluminum brackets and screws for both windows. Placed in the correct place, no slim jim will work.
Install a dual actuator soleniod. This is basicly a trunk release soleniod, but has two soleniods within one casing. One is pull, and the other is push. The push soleniod has metal pin, locking the other in place which cannot be released. This would like a hood lock but for your door.
3. Electrical: As the others have already stated above. There are several ways to cut off the power supply to the door switch. Consider what is the most efficient, and direct approach, with maximum gain.
If you are serious you could install a lower version of a mag lock system. But, that comes down to how much your willing to go.
At the end of the day it is about maximum output, with minimal effort . . .
Just my thoughts
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
   
crosswired 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2003
Posted: December 19, 2003 at 1:19 AM / IP Logged  

thank you one and all.

the pass side switch is the master switch. i figured this would be easy (like wiretapper said). i figure that even if i cut the power wire to the locks (orange wire), the keyless would still work (the relays for the alarm get power from elsewhere, so power being cut upstream is of no matter). if i understand you, you are saying it does matter (otherwise i dont understand the need for a pulsed unlock, as auex said i may need to do).  i really dont understand how any locks except for one wires (using different resistances for lock and unlock) work.  i know what they mean (definitions, i havent seen them. im one of those whom needs to see and play with stuff; reading about it doesnt cut it. LOL).  so thats why i ask the experts here. :-)  you keep me from making big mistakes or creating big headaches.

  i figured this would be easy (one more relay, no biggie).  but given what you all have said since auex responded (my thoughts were much like what he said - simple to do. ), but it sounds like a pita.  

teken, you make many good points. i know little to none about the items you suggest. i will look into them. 

 i know someone whom is intent on breaking in will do so easily.  i just want to prevent ad hoc thieves/kids from getting in easy.  its a sleep insurance thing.  if i dont do it and it would have been  easy to do, then if something happened, id kick myself. 

also, anyone know about the starter kill socket question from my last post (does it matter which wires are connected to 87A and 30?). 

thank you all for the help. im hoping to get a consensus on whether interrupting one wire will allow for the lock switches  to be killed (w/o further mods being needed to be made).  thank you all very much. i really appreciate it. kill door lock power when armed - Page 2 -- posted image.

Teken 
Gold - Posts: 1,492
Gold spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2002
Location: Aruba
Posted: December 19, 2003 at 9:02 AM / IP Logged  
Normally terminal 30 is used as the output, or terminal 87. As terminal 30 is the common point which the lever moves to contact 87 when voltage is applied, and rests at terminal 87a when not energized.
As for your efforts to prevent the typical *smash & grabs* you get an A for effort. But please do take the time to prevent the door from being mechanically open, via a slim jim.
$3.00 worth of parts, and some sweat equity will let you sleep alot better knowing that the key point of entry, has been removed.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
crosswired 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2003
Posted: December 19, 2003 at 7:25 PM / IP Logged  

Evil, good stuff again, thanks.  do you know of a write up on doing the barrier in the door? im real mechanically inclined, but havent done something like that before. im not sure what im doing, as i really dont know how a slim jim works (i know it catches the linkage, but i dont have a good grasp of what exactly it grabs).  if i saw a write up, i would mimic it and all would be good.

thanks again.

Teken 
Gold - Posts: 1,492
Gold spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2002
Location: Aruba
Posted: December 19, 2003 at 9:34 PM / IP Logged  
You dont even need to see a write up. When you have time to remove the inner door liner, simply move the locking linkage back, and forth, to understand how it works.
Once you are familair with its operation, and how the linkage travels to, and from.
Take a few moments to do the exact locking and unlocking from above.
You will notice that from above there is an area which *if shielded*, cannot hook, engage, or otherwise grasp the linkage to a point that would unlock the mechanism.
This is where your McGyver skills come into play. You will simply place the metal bracket or similar object to prevent any device from engaging the door linkage.
Based on your level of experience, and positive attitude, I dont see this taking you very long to come up with a plan to guard against what I have indicated.
Remember, you are to look from above, and consider how a device such as a slim jim would grasp the linkage, so from there you will know how to prevent such an attack.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
crosswired 
Member - Posts: 20
Member spacespace
Joined: December 07, 2003
Posted: December 19, 2003 at 11:39 PM / IP Logged  

sounds good.  i never knew where a slim jim grabs on, but ill check it out.  sounds like i should look at the knob linkage (camaro has the lock/unlock lever under the door handle, not a normal knob on top of the sill). also i ll look at the inner door handle linkage (IIRC, pullin the handle unlocks and opens the door. i imagine it would take quite a pull to move that linkage. LOL).   thank you again.  ill add it to the list : new door and saleen wing on the stang, two cd players and a changer to install,  crotchrocket carbs to check over and clean, and many more. LOL.  toys can be a pain.

thanks again. ill do that. still not sure about the door lock switch deal. i may just play with it, as there are different opinions on what to do and how it will change things.  that would be the next easy way to get in (coathanger and 3 seconds. i hate cars with no door frame around the window). thanks again. :-)

Teken 
Gold - Posts: 1,492
Gold spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2002
Location: Aruba
Posted: December 22, 2003 at 11:47 AM / IP Logged  
http://www.autobolt.com <-- This is another more invasive method of protecting the doors. I have been unable to locate the maker of the double lock soleniod which I use in my vehicle.
I will ask around to see if they are still being manufactured. Using the double lock soleniod requires alot less drilling, and damage to the vehicle.
Regards
EVIL Teken . . .
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