2004 SRT4 Neon alarm/remote start

if I could put my 0.02 in here, I think ur right!!  your first r/s install on a BRAND NEW car with transponder and clutch bypass is gonna be a tough one if you don't know where to look for things.  staying away from airbags and not probing computer circuits is thrown in the mix....

I'm not sure of any how-to's, but I would suggest having a licenced shop do the install on the provision that you pay for the install so that you can see/participate in how it goes.  Perhaps do the pin and tach, and take a peek at things while the installer goes through it....

b

$150 is not bad as long as is professionally installed, but the again if you want to give it a try here it is it shold be th same wiring.

NOTES:

*1 - TO DISARM THE FACTORY ALARM YOU WILL NEED TO SEND A NEGATIVE TRIGGER THRU A 7.5K (7500) OHM RESISTOR. MUST USE A RELAY ALSO IF YOU SET THE KEYLESS UP FOR DOUBLE PULSE UNLOCK, IT WILL DISARM THE FACTORY ALARM AND UNLOCK THE DOORS.

Its not as bad as you think. Manual vs Auto .... just a few extra/less wires to tie into depending on which model you have. Most RS's will require you to set the e-brake and tie in door triggers (e-brake for ovbious reasons, door triggers so when a door is opened, the vehicle will shut off and prevent anyone from accidently knocking it into gear) and possibily will require you to disable the clutch saftey switch.

If you really wish to do it yourself, i would do it on a day in the middle of the week and have a friend handy incase you need an extra set of hands or someone to run you for parts(relays, different bypass, wire/connectors). I also am unsure how you wish to make your connections. I would use a soldering iron and make all the joints permenant, but since this is a DIY type thing, i guess butt connectors will suffice.

The above diagram is possibily wrong. Compare mine and his to what you find at your ignition switch to decide which is correct because it seems 03 overlaps on ours... but yours is an 04.

The clutch bypass switch is probably the most difficult because i cannot figure out how the switch works in any of my diagrams, but im betting when its pressed, ground is broken and allows the vehicle to start, when the pedal is not pressed, the switch grounds out and kills the starter.

What you want to do with this is set up a relay to bypass it, but the relay needs to be dioed isolated so the the clutch switch still works with the key in the ignition.

Use a DVOM multi meter and test the 2 wires on the clutch switch(probably mounted on the top of the clutch pedal assembely?) in OHM's. Place the black lead to ground, and probe the 1st wire. Write the reading down. Now, test it with the key ON and the meter measuring VDC. Write this reading down. Now, press the clutch pedal down and test the same wire in both OHMs and VDC. Now test the other wire using the same method. One of these wires will read 0.0(about) ohms all the time. The other will read 0.0ohms only when the pedal is released. If you measure any kind of VDC.. its a different kind of switch. (this is just off of past experience with clutch switches) Or maybe the switch works backwards from that... one wire will read ground all the time, one wire will read ground only when the pedal is pressed.

If you find the wire that reads ground with the pedal released, cut the wire in half. Wire up a relay this way. 85 +R/S Output 86 ground. 87 open. 87A to wire that runs up and out of view(the end you cut) 30 to the end that runs into the switch. In this setup, when the R/S turns the ignition on, the relay connects 87 and 30 which is a dead circut and allows the car to start.

If you find a wire that reads ground with the pedal pressed, cut the wire in half. Wire up a relay this way. 85 +R/S Output 86 ground 87 ground 87A to wire that runs up and out of view, and 30 to the switch side of the wire you cut. In this setup, when the ignition comes on, the relay switches and makes 87 and 30 connect and ground out, allowing you to start.

There, clutch switch out of the way (if it works as described above... if not... gonna have to let us know what your readings were, or troubleshoot it yourself)

Start by pulling the lower panels off of the dashboard. Few 7mm.. mebbe an 8... 10... few T20s mebbe even phillips screws. Get all that crap off of there so you can see the steering colum, the firewall, everything underneath the steering wheel.. this includes pulling the bottom cover off of the steering colum and possibily the top side of it.

First thing i do is attack ignition wires. These are big ole heavy ass wires all together (probably 5-7 of em) Start making your connections. Make sure your able to get to enought of the wire to splice it and have enough room to crimp it in place. Good idea to stagger your connections... dont simply cut them all roughly in the same place because you will end up with a huge ball of connectors. Connect all your primary wiring. Remember to tape them butt connectors up after a good "tug" test.

Now its time to go after the rest of them. The brake wire is at the brake switch above the pedal. The parking light wire is on the steering colum probably next to where you made your ignition connections. Dont forget the system ground... this is a no brainer. Now, take your 3 wires needed under the hood: Tach/Hoodpin/Siren wires and run them through the firewall. If your going to try to install these.. you should know how to hook up the hoodpin and siren. The TACH wire goes to the ignition coil... to the BLACK/ grey wire. If using butt connectors, i would reccommend alot of tape here... lots of heat and lots of poetential of causing a driveability problem later on... make sure that butt connector is solid as hell.

Now, depending on what the directions that came with it say.. you probably have to "learn" the tach signal... this is done by starting the vehicle...... but follow the directions that came with your unit.

Next you want to hook up your bypass. most of these are a BITCH to hook up! Loop the little antenna around the ignition cylinder.... there is a black plastic ring with a box mounted to it... get as close to that ring with the wires as you can!! follow the directions that came with the bypass.

Now your ready to test the R/S out.... if it doesent start.... but the ignition comes on.... be sure you have the right starter wire going to the vehicles starter wire.... press the clutch pedal in... mebbe the switch isnt bypassed. Try moving the key around inside the bypass box.... and move the wires around at the ignition cylinder. Trial and error my friend (atleast right here right now)

For the alarm, all you do is tie your dome light wire (yellow -) up for all the doors to set the alarm off.

Keyless entry?: Take your lock wire.... connect a 1k ohm resistor to it and connect it to the LGreen wire in the drivers kick panel. Take your unlock wire and connect a 250ohm resistor to it and connect that to the LGreen wire.... test and tape.

Good luck... i know i left alot of details out... but this is a decent overview on how/where/why

Im jsut finishing up my DIY install on a 2001 gmc sierra, when i first looked at the manual i sh*t myself. but after getting into the wires and stuff it all jsut kinda makes sense.  really pretty easy considering how confusing everything looks.  my only problem was that i didnt find this forum untill i had been messing with it for a few weeks trying to get it to start, and founf out that i have an anti theft system that i had to bypass, ( I WAS PISSED ! i knew i had everything done right all the right wires the starter would turn over and everything just no run!) 

I also had it in my mind that i was only going to hook up the RS and KeyLess entry because of all that stuff that u had to do. but after i got the RS to work i was stoked! and thought it would be fun to finish off the alarm as well ( have glass break sensors and radar perimiter units on the way)

P.S.  IM JEALOUS THAT UR DRIVING MY CAR!  I had my heart set on buying an 04 srt-4, but work forced me to buy a truck instead:(