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Subwoofer Orientation.


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stevdart 
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Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: April 15, 2004 at 10:26 AM / IP Logged  

i meant as soon as you introduce an angle, you can't achieve that absolute ratio. And that the ratio could not include a dimension as small as 2".  A word on this ratio, though:  When you're dealing with only subwoofer frequencies, the dimensions of the enclosure are not as important as that for a home system cabinet.  So people follow the rule of "how does it fit best into the car".

The angles, esp. when either on the face or the back, tend to help eliminate standing waves inside the enclosure.  I built a box for the trunk in my car with an angle on the side, and I believe that is still beneficial.

If you want to build it low and flat, consider the impact of the speaker on the face of the structure.  The box has to remain absolutely rigid.  So figure for bracing if you are going to stray that far from a "standard" box.  And build the box to fit into the car...don't consider the car floor suitable in itself as a side of the box.

You can do a google search of this site under "inverted" and pull up some previous discussions of inverted subs, with some important input from DYohn and others.

stevdart 
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Posted: April 15, 2004 at 10:37 AM / IP Logged  
A better search:  go to the search button at the bottom of this page, go to 12Volt Install Bay forum:  "message body",  search for "inverted".
DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: April 15, 2004 at 10:52 AM / IP Logged  
stevdart wrote:

i meant as soon as you introduce an angle, you can't achieve that absolute ratio. And that the ratio could not include a dimension as small as 2".  A word on this ratio, though:  When you're dealing with only subwoofer frequencies, the dimensions of the enclosure are not as important as that for a home system cabinet.  So people follow the rule of "how does it fit best into the car".

:)  I was just about to say the same thing... in general the golden ratio is critical for enclosures intended for woofers with frequency response above 180Hz or so, but for sibs can be ignored.  Air displacement volume is really the most important criteria for car audio subs.  That and speaker placement.  ALTHOUGH the golden ration would still create the best case enclosure no matter what in my opinion!

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oreo lover 
Member - Posts: 47
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Joined: April 07, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: April 15, 2004 at 12:42 PM / IP Logged  

QUOTE=stevdart]

If you want to build it low and flat, consider the impact of the speaker on the face of the structure.  The box has to remain absolutely rigid.  So figure for bracing if you are going to stray that far from a "standard" box.  And build the box to fit into the car...don't consider the car floor suitable in itself as a side of the box.

[/QUOTE]

That is correct.  The floor, walls and sides would be made of wood.  Braces are a great point.  Thanks.  Are braces going to affect sound quality?  Is there a bad place to put them?  Obviously not in the woofers path.  How does their role play when calculating interior volume?  By saying I need 1 cu. ft. of air means I need 1 cu/ ft. of AIR, right.  Not simply an interior volume of "Space" inside the walls of the enclosure.

DYohn wrote:

:)  I was just about to say the same thing... in general the golden ratio is critical for enclosures intended for woofers with frequency response above 180Hz or so, but for sibs can be ignored.  Air displacement volume is really the most important criteria for car audio subs.  That and speaker placement.  ALTHOUGH the golden ration would still create the best case enclosure no matter what in my opinion!

DYohn, Are you saying that it may be possible to have the enclosure, for example, 2" high and making up the remainder of the vloume through length and width?  what is your take on having the sub fire towards an angled wall? 

DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: April 15, 2004 at 12:59 PM / IP Logged  

Yes, in theory, it doesn't matter what the geometry of a subwoofer enclosure is as long as the air volume is correct.  So yes, in theory, a 2" high enclosure could be designed.  It might not sound as good as one built closer to the golden ratio, but below, say, about 80Hz I have to believe it could perform equally well.  Go for it and see!  It's just MDF, time and money, afterall...

As far as "firing a sub toward an angled wall" it depends on the vehicle and the intent of the design.  For SPL, it probably does not matter.  For SQ, it could make a critical difference.  That's why I do not believe there are any good "rules of thimb" for loudspeaker placement that apply in ALL cases.  Every installation is different and it all depends on what the RTA tells you.

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oreo lover 
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Member spacespace
Joined: April 07, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: April 15, 2004 at 1:06 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks Dyohn.  One last thing before I am comfortable.  Let's say for argument I did incorporate a slight angle, opposing the woofer face, into the box, say 10 degrees.  Would this be enough to get some effect out of the angle?  I am going to try it anyway since, yes, It is only MDF.

Whats your two cents on whether or not to follow the information found in the "N.A.M.E" videos.  I think they are from the 90's.

Lastly, what is RTA?

Thanks to all for the help.

DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: April 15, 2004 at 1:17 PM / IP Logged  
I'm not familiar with those videos, sorry.  Are you talking about including angles in your enclosure design?  Shouldn't be a problem as long as you do the math and determine the interior volume.  RTA = Real Time Analyzer and is a device that shows frequency response using a calibrated microphone and test tones.  It's used for testing system performance during (or after) installation.
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