Steve,
I sure don't blame you for wanting your existing module to work! I know how you feel....it's not like a new module would be that expensive....but you already paid good money for the one you have, and it would be wasteful to throw it away. Let's try one more time to go over it. I'll try to lightly touch on everything you need to know. Also, even though I prefer the self-learning modules.....even if your module should fail, you will still be able to start the vehicle with the key.... so at least you're not going to get stranded.
1. Are you sure you have the correct Passlock wires? I believe there are actually three yellows in the main steering column harness---a thick one for the starter, and two smaller, identical yellow ones. Here's how to find the correct yellow wire.
Locate the bundle of wires coming down from the steering column, and follow it until all the wires go into a large, black rectangular plug. On the middle row, about three pins in from the side, is the ORANGE / black Passlock ground wire. Now, move over sideways until you're three pins over from the OTHER side of the plug, and there's a thin yellow wire there; this is the Passlock resistance (or R-code) wire. You'll notice that on the top (or bottom?) row there is another yellow wire in the middle; this is NOT the one you want. If I'm not being clear, let me know.
2. I'll go over the proper procedure for measuring the car's R-code. I follow the method outlined in the instructions for Audiovox's AS-PASS III. (It's a user-adjusted module like yours; I hate using it, but the instructions are very good.)
A. Strip some insulation off the ORANGE / black Passlock ground wire (without cutting it). Cut the yellow R-code wire in half; strip both ends of it. Set your multimeter to Ohms and get ready. Attach one meter lead to the ORANGE / black, and the other lead to the yellow R-code wire, on the side that comes out of the steering column. (For right now, ignore the other half of the yellow wire; the one going down into the black plug.)
B. Set the parking brake. Turn the key forward just a little tiny bit, and place the car in Reverse. (Since the car won't even attempt to start while in Reverse, no matter what you do, you won't be able to accidentally cause the Passlock system to "lock" itself up.) As a safety precaution, though, keep your left hand on the brake pedal just in case.
C. With your right hand, turn the key to Start and release. Wait a second or two, and record the reading on your meter. (I'm sure you know this, but don't forget the symbols that will pop up on the meter's display: 2.0k means 2000 ohms......hey, we're all human, and I've made the mistake before.)
D. Turn the key backward as far as it will go (while leaving the car in Reverse). Take your two meter leads and switch them around. Turn the key to Start again and release; record your meter reading again.
E. Of those two meter readings you took, the lower reading is the correct one. Now's the time to follow the instructions included with your module to set its resistance properly. Passlock II will tolerate a 5% difference up or down----using a calculator, multiply your meter reading by .95 and by 1.05; these are your minimum and maximum settings you can use on your module. Ideally, though, you want to get it as close as possible.
3. Of course, you'll be connecting the two halves of the cut-in-half yellow R-code wire to your module. It's a common mistake to get the two wires hooked up backwards, so double check. In your module's instructions, you'll see that one wire goes to the ignition switch side, the other goes to the BCM side (which is the side going to that black rectangular plug). Even if you've already checked ten times, go check again and make sure you got them right.
4. You should make sure your module is being powered up properly. It should have connections for constant power, chassis ground, ignition, and "ground while remote start is on" coming from the remote start unit. Let's go over these four connections.
A. Constant: Obviously, you know what constant power is...just make sure the fuse is good.
B. Chassis ground: Ideally, you'd want to tie the module's ground wire into the ORANGE / black at the column, even though the module's instructions often don't say so. It is best that the module "sees" the exact same ground as the factory key cylinder. But a regular ground at chassis metal is also acceptable....I usually use the factory 7mm bolt by the parking brake release.
C. Ignition: This goes to the car's pink ignition wire. Or tie it into your remote start's "ignition 1" output, becuase that's connected to the pink anyway...whichever is more convenient.
D. "Ground while remote start is on": Every remote-start manufacturer seems to have a different name for this wire, so you'll have to read the instructions closely. You're looking for a wire that puts out a ground just before the remote start process kicks in, and keeps on putting out ground until after the remote start is shut down---whether you shut it down by remote, or opening the hood, or stepping on the brake, or just plain getting in the car and driving away. This is the wire that "tells" your bypass module: "Hey, I'm about to start the car. Wake up and get that Passlock bypassed for me, okay?" If your remote start doesn't have such an output, you're not totally screwed, but you're going to need a couple of relays and some more labor.
HINT: Put your hand on your bypass module, and activate the remote start. You should feel/hear the relay(s) inside click on just before the car tries to start. Then, shut the remote start down....a couple of seconds later, you should feel/hear it click off.
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