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List of parts to build a speaker box


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markcars 
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Posted: June 17, 2004 at 11:02 PM / IP Logged  
I am in the process if building a box for my new sub that hasnt arrived yet, but would like to know what are the list of parts I would need like liquid nails etc and where I can get them all. I looked up the net a bit but did not find any place with a complete guide.
Also if the size of the box needs to be 40 liters in volume, does it matter if the shape is shallow and very wide, as long as the volume is within the specs? Because I want to build a box that is as shallow as possible, probably just about an inch behind the magnet and then as wide as my trunk space so that I can fit the box well in my trunk with it being minimally obtrusive. thanks.
bLACKKNIGHTPRES 
Member - Posts: 12
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Joined: June 17, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: June 17, 2004 at 11:24 PM / IP Logged  

Im guessing your new at this.. my first box was made out of 3/4 MDF wood.. you need screws.. a jig saw.. circular saw.. a drill.. some silicone sealer.. carpet? ur choice.. and the connectors, have fun!

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Ravendarat 
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Posted: June 17, 2004 at 11:25 PM / IP Logged  

If this is for your focal sub you need 3/4 inch mdf with internal bracing or 1 inch thick mdf if internal bracing isnt an option. The box can be built fairly shallow as long as the internal volume  is right. You are also gonna need either brad nails or screws, I know this is gonna start a debate but I have used both and never had a problem with either one. Your gonna want silicone to seal the inside of  the box with. You are also gonna need a way to get the wires to the outside of the box. You can either use a terminal cup or you can drill a whole and then run the wires through and silicone it up. If you use a terminal cup dont use a cheap one and silicone the hell out of it since some termianl cups leak air through the actual connections, very uncool. You are gonna need something to cover the box with, if its carpet then you are gonna need a can of airsol spray glue, if you vinyl then you need staples and some type of glue to hold it down, I dont know whats avalible in your area. I think thats everything. f you think I am missing something just ask.

double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
icu400 
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Joined: April 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: June 17, 2004 at 11:30 PM / IP Logged  
First, as far as I know, the shape as far as that goes does not affect the sound in any way, only the volume.
Now, I am betting you want to build a sealed enclosure (meaning air tight), so here is what you need:
one large sheet of 3/4" MDF
1 large tube of liquid nails, or 2 smaller ones
1.5in coarse drywall screws
a jig saw and circular saw, and power drill
a speaker terminal (put wires from amp on side on outside of box, and connect sub to opposite side inside box) (get this from radio shack)
and a form of sealant (RTV i believe it is called) to seal all the seams
everything but the speaker terminal you can get at home depot or lowes, the mdf is about 20 bucks, the liquid nails about 4, the screws 1-2, the terminals a few bucks a piece, and the sealant should not be much either (just ask a guy at home depot what he recomends
basically you cut the MDF (which is a higher quality plywood) and glue it together with the liquid nails. Make sure you cut the holes for the driver and speaker terminal first. Then just use your drill to put the screws in ever few inches (they don't require pilot holes but you are welcome to drill them). After that, use the sealant on all the inside seams for an airtight finish, cover with carpet of your favorite flavor, stick that sub in there and bang away.
markcars 
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Joined: December 11, 2002
Location: New York, United States
Posted: June 17, 2004 at 11:38 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks a lot for all your helps.
I don't know what is bracing.
This is going to be my first car-sub box, although I build speakers long ago for my home use, but never a real sub. This seems very interesting and exciting. And Ravendatat, yes its for my focal. And icu400, you win the bet. How did you know I was wanting to build a sealed box?   This brings to another interesting question that I had in my mind. I thought of putting in a port in the box, but put a port cover, so I can close the port and listen to the sealed box, or open the port to hear the ported version so I can compare both and see which is better and eventually seal the hole if the sealed version is better. I still am not sure if ported or sealed will sound better.   
Also I don't know what are liquid nails yet. Ill be spending some time at home depot surely.
Ravendarat 
Platinum - Posts: 2,806
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Joined: February 23, 2004
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Posted: June 17, 2004 at 11:46 PM / IP Logged  
The sealed ported Idea is not a good one if its a wedge style box. The port would be complicated and the internal space for a ported bos is quite different from that of a sealed box. If you wanna compare then you are gonna have to build 2 seperate boxes. I have made convertable boxes before but they were complicated and never in a wedge style although I know that its possible. If you really wanna know I can tell you how I did it in detail but if this is your first attempt I would suggest even trying. There is a lot of math involved and its kinda complicated to build properly.
double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
auex 
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Posted: June 17, 2004 at 11:47 PM / IP Logged  
I hate liquid nails, hate it, hate it, hate it (get the drift). Liquid nails is like wood glue but alot thicker and comes in tubes just like silicon. To many people swear by it and I hate the stuff with a passion. I prefer wood glue with brad nails to hold the box together and I seal with fiberglass resin. Also do not try to make a selectable ported box without some type of membrane that will increase the volume of the box easily, sealed boxes are too small for ports generally ( I really wouldn't recommend this for anything then other a competition vehicle). Bracing would entail placing pieces of wood inbetween the top and bottom, sides, and front and back to support the box from flexing. And to prove my point about liquid nails, see posts below trying to flame, hehe!
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icu400 
Copper - Posts: 123
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Posted: June 17, 2004 at 11:51 PM / IP Logged  
Liquid nails are a nice way of saying glue, but they work very well.
As far as changing for ported to sealed thats not possible. Ported boxes require twice the volume of a sealed box, and if a sealed box had double the recommended volume, it would sound like crap.
Some people like sealed or ported more. The rule of thumb I have learned is sealed for quality because it has more control over the sub, but ported for "louder" applications. I use sealed on my subs, I am using sealed on the new boxes I am building. I have only heard 1 other ported box, and it sounded ok, but sealed is easy to build and is generally associated with sound quality. I would just look at like this: if you don't like the sealed, you will have enough left over wood to probably build a ported, or you could spend another 10 bucks for some more mdf (you will have plenty of screws/liquid nails) and another 5 bucks for more terminals, and build a ported and see if its any better. But I bet you will be happy with sealed.
Peace.
icu400 
Copper - Posts: 123
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Joined: April 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: June 17, 2004 at 11:53 PM / IP Logged  
Liquid nails are a nice way of saying glue, but they work very well.
As far as changing for ported to sealed thats not possible. Ported boxes require twice the volume of a sealed box, and if a sealed box had double the recommended volume, it would sound like crap.
Some people like sealed or ported more. The rule of thumb I have learned is sealed for quality because it has more control over the sub, but ported for "louder" applications. I use sealed on my subs, I am using sealed on the new boxes I am building. I have only heard 1 other ported box, and it sounded ok, but sealed is easy to build and is generally associated with sound quality. I would just look at like this: if you don't like the sealed, you will have enough left over wood to probably build a ported, or you could spend another 10 bucks for some more mdf (you will have plenty of screws/liquid nails) and another 5 bucks for more terminals, and build a ported and see if its any better. But I bet you will be happy with sealed.
Peace.
(P.S. make sure your volume meets the factory recomendation for your sub, other wise it won't sound quite so good...best of luck)
Ravendarat 
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Posted: June 17, 2004 at 11:55 PM / IP Logged  
Its not impossible, just far more dificult.
double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
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