Not happy w/new sound

I've heard good things about CDT speakers.  Is the CDT crossover bi-amp-able?  If so, then use that feature with your four channel amplifier.  Then you'll have a separate 75 going to the tweeters and 75 going to the mids, both @ 4 ohms and cleaner than your bridged setup. 

Yeah man .. that sounds like a good start to me.  If you do buy some 6.5" midbass drivers for your doors you should really be set. 

On the install, I don't have experience w/ actual q-form kicks, but you'll probably want to stuff them to increase the effective air volume: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-317

One problem w/ qforms is that they are just kinda small and tend to hurt midbass response.  So, the problem you might have is a little "hole" in your frequency response curve depending on where you have the sub crossed over.  i.e. your sub from 30ish - 80ish, and then the 5.25" drivers will start to fall off higher in that enclosure, maybe 150hz-ish (guess).  So you'll have some quiet midbass, a hole, in the 100hz-120hz range and your system will lack some punch that particlar range can provide.  You'll easily be able to fix this w/ 6.5" drivers in the door dedicated to midbass. 

Until you put some midbass drivers in I'd cross the 5.25" cdt's over around 100hz, 12db slope or higher.  You don't want those guys sent much bass in those enclosures or it will probably muddy up the midrange.

The JL 300/4 is bridged it is still a 4ohm x 150w per the information supplied by JL the bset that I can understand. Since it is a 4 chaqnnel amp and I will only be using 2 channels in the bridges mode.  I will check the CDT specs to see if the crossover is bi-ampable, i was thinking of this method as well.

Any comments on the quality of the Q-Forms as well as the quaility for sound?

Thanks for the replies,

Mike

Would it be wiser to just run the 75wx2 to the components and abandon the other two channels for now?  I was trying to something with the speaker in the 150w range to use the bridgable feature and to fullfill the RMS closer to the speaker and this is why I choose the E520 series that is rated at 150w.  One of the problems I have now is that I have to turm the volume up to at least 25 to start sounding just okay, I know this has a lot to do with the gain set where it is for the Pioneers. But, what I have read in the booklet is that the gains are set using a voltage meter to match the given ohm load for maximum distortion free sound.

Am I way off base on this theory from the JL book?

Any JL freaks chime in please.

Thanks,

Mike

What you're talking about doing is bridging two channels into one mono channel.  Common with subs, the rating is 4 ohm bridged, but the amp sees two ohm per channel.  2 and 2 = 4.  The bi-amping is the best route to go.  If they are not bi-ampable, using two of the four channels is next best.  The volume should be very loud with 75 watts to each component.

The most accurate way to set the amp gain is with a multimeter, using a sine wave test tone, at some various frequencies.  But you can also set by ear, using the sound of distortion (clipping) as the "stop" indicator.  And with components, that distortion is much easier to hear than it is using a sub to hear it.  Setting gain by ear is often discussed, and I'll review it if you need the info.

Stevdart thanks,

I hate to have a pair of speakers rated for 150w and only giving it 75w, isn't this more likely to damage speaker?  Should I go ahead and get a 150w x2 or maybe dowgrade the speaker to the HD series that is rated at 90w?  This is if the crossover is not bi-ampable.  As you see from earlier posts I have to turn the unit up to volume of 30-34 to get the loudness that I want and this is what started it all as well as the Pioneer speakers sounding so horrible.  The installer set the gain when he installed the amps and sub.  With quality speakers am I going to see that much of a difference?

Thanks,

Mike

You said you have purchased those components.  First thing to do is check if bi-ampable.  Then go from there.  I can't find info on these, as they appear to be 2002 model.

And the gain is always reset when there is any change at all in the system.

I looked at the pic of what I think are your crossovers on the CDT site.  They appear to have 4 input terminals and 4 output terminals.  You probably just have to remove a jumper and they'll be bi-ampable.

Running 75w to those components will not hurt them.  The only way you'll hurt those speakers w/ 75w is if you keep sending them a clipped signal.  You won't do this because you'll notice distortion and turn the volume down.  :-)  and you'll have the gains set correctly.

Ordered them today from store in NJ, I can always call to see if they will downgrade... Not even the CDTAudio web-site has the info if bi-ampable, I emailed them but it is the holliday weekend and do not plan on getting a response until Tuesday.

Guess I should research more before I purchase, no CDT dealers in my area.

Thanks,

Mike