melting my fuse block

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kgerry

Platinum - Posts: 3,455

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Joined: February 07, 2004

Location: Saskatchewan, Canada

Posted: August 04, 2004 at 5:38 PM / IP Logged

aye there's the rub..... the metal shouldnt be attached to plastic...it should be attached to a bakelite compound base which isnt effected by heat transferance.... any primary fuse block that is rated over 100 amps of current and is made of plastic is a cheap fuse block... sorry to say

Kevin Gerry

Certified Electronics Technician

MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer

Classic Car Audio

since 1979

T.Hill

Copper - Posts: 268

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Joined: February 21, 2003

Location: Missouri, United States

Posted: August 04, 2004 at 6:29 PM / IP Logged

I just got done checking and the only one like you describe would be made by Stinger(maybe one by Phoenix Gold). Monstercable, streetwires, Knukonceptz, tsunami and RF are all cheap? None of those companines say anythnig about having high-temp cases. The new one that I recieved today is Hooker. Anyone heard of this brand?

Pioneer DEH-P980BT, Zapco DCREF1000.4,Pioneer TS-C520PRS, Adire Extremis, MTX TA91002, TC Sounds TC-3000 15"

flynntech

Copper - Posts: 275

Joined: April 15, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: August 06, 2004 at 1:24 AM / IP Logged

I can't believe that a shop told you tou needed a cap!!

What a sad world we live in......

The problem is indeed caused by a bad connection. You have mentioned corrosion. Yes it is a cheap fuse holder, but the fuse will blow if the current is to high...and there really is no reason for it to melt if the wiring is done correctly.

I would still get a better fuse holder and upgrade to 2 gauge...kgerry is right, cheap junk doesn't belong in your car.

Why not get a breaker?

fuseblower

Silver - Posts: 403

Joined: June 25, 2003

Location: United States

Posted: August 06, 2004 at 8:22 AM / IP Logged

Since you have installed the new fuse holder has it started melting? If so I would look into a circuit breaker.

stevdart

Platinum - Posts: 5,816

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Joined: January 24, 2004

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: August 07, 2004 at 1:05 AM / IP Logged

gtown installer wrote:

...look how small the fuse connection is on your fuse, the amount of current allowed to pass through the four gauge wire is only the amount allowed by the fuse. voltage is like pressure, and a fuse in kinda like a resistor...

gklown installer, have you gone back to the books and done your homework yet? You hafta know the purpose of a fuse...

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

flynntech

Copper - Posts: 275

Joined: April 15, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: August 07, 2004 at 6:42 AM / IP Logged

'voltage is like pressure'

yea, I think I know what book he's been reading too, MECP bronz level study guide?

Another of my favorite lines from that book is "electron theory states that current flows from the negative to the positive, in this book we will stick with conventional theory to keep it simple (positive to negative) "

Let's undo this gross misuse of terminology right now.....voltage is potential.

There can be 100,000 volts at that fuse holder and the fuse will not blow unless it's current rating is exceeded.

It is a resistor in a sense, it does have some resistance, when it gets hot enough, it is supposed to open. Since it is a slow blow, it won't open right away, but it still adds resistance.

The fuse itself cannot generate enough heat to melt plastic, at that point it will be ready to blow and the heat is in the filament not likely to be in the ends and wiring, the connectors and 4 awg wire act as a big heat sink if this is the case. If there is a crusty stale connection with lots of current going through it, there can easilly be enough heat build-up to do some damage!

chevyman26

Copper - Posts: 227

Joined: April 14, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: August 07, 2004 at 7:49 AM / IP Logged

If corroding is a problem for you, you might want to smear some 'dielectric silicone compound' on the connections of your new fuse holder to prevent this. Any electronics or auto parts store has it.

You'd better get me out of this lord... or else you'll have me to deal with. -- Hunter S. Thompson "F.A.L.I.L.V."

T.Hill

Copper - Posts: 268

Joined: February 21, 2003

Location: Missouri, United States

Posted: August 07, 2004 at 11:28 PM / IP Logged

ok, thanks for all the replies. I haven't been on the pc in a couple of days. I haven't changed the fuse block yet since I really don't want something to happen to this on too. I have taken the old one out and gave it back to the shop.

You'll be proud to hear that I used the "search" function on this site to find the best deal on some 1/0 gauge wire. It should be here on tuesday which is why I'm waiting til then to put the new fuseblock in. Knukonceptz has the wire for $2.25 a foot. Not a bad deal. The new block that was given to me doesn't say anything about being a "bakelite" type base so I'll be watching this one very closely.

Any suggestions on whether I should stay with a 150A fuse or go bigger?

Pioneer DEH-P980BT, Zapco DCREF1000.4,Pioneer TS-C520PRS, Adire Extremis, MTX TA91002, TC Sounds TC-3000 15"

stevdart

Platinum - Posts: 5,816

Joined: January 24, 2004

Location: Pennsylvania, United States

Posted: August 07, 2004 at 11:32 PM / IP Logged

As long as you're running the same equipment use the same fuse. Since your demand is not greater than 150 amps.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

T.Hill

Copper - Posts: 268

Joined: February 21, 2003

Location: Missouri, United States

Posted: August 07, 2004 at 11:42 PM / IP Logged

now that you say that, the same shop that told me that another cap could be a solution also told be that if I double the fuse rating amount on the amp thats how much the amp is pulling at full load. that would indicate that it possible for it to be pulling 240a at full volume. I told him how Crutchfield says to measure the pull to which he replied that he deals with real world current pull which is like he said double what the amp rating is.

as far as the circuit breaker goes I read on www.bcae1.com that these aren't as fast and/or reliable as fuses as far as protecting electronic equipment like amps and radios.

Pioneer DEH-P980BT, Zapco DCREF1000.4,Pioneer TS-C520PRS, Adire Extremis, MTX TA91002, TC Sounds TC-3000 15"

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