melting my fuse block

Let's undo this gross misuse of terminology right now.....voltage is potential.

Close but I think you mean voltage is the differenece of potential.

The important thing to know about a fuse is that it is a safety device.  It is designed to burn out in a controlled and safe manner when the amperage flow through it exceeds its rating.  It is not a control valve, or a floodgate, that controls the flow of amperes.  Its relative size has nothing to do with anything, meaning one cannot judge a fuse by comparing it to the thickness of the adjoining wiring.  That also means that the amperage flow is not bottled up in the portion of wire before the fuse and only allowed to trickle through the fuse at the fuse's amp rating.  That is a decidedly totally wrong impression of what a fuse does.

This is a response, not to the original post, but to a respondent earlier on who implied that I didn't know what I was talking about and then went on to describe an erroneous idea of what a fuse does.  Since both fusing and grounding share the status of being the most critical elements in an car audio system, I wanted to clear that up.

RAMBOY: "Close but I think you mean voltage is the differenece of potential."

Yup, that's what I meant. ;)

Wow......double the fuse values...double the bass?

how much crack is this guy smoking?

A breaker will open quick enough if the positive wire is pinched and shorted to the body of the car, which is all it needs to do. It won't matter if it's 150A or 500A. The moment that wire shorts to ground, that breaker going to flip. Since such a short would demand full current from the battery/alt the voltage at the amp would be 0, not likely to get damaged.

JBL makes good amps. You should go back and talk to this guy everyday, just to post what he said here. This nonsense is getting better and better!

yup...... one qaurter ohm impedence....very usefull.

Being that JBL/crown is a division of the Harmon Cardon company or something like that, I'm sure thier products are perfectly fine for audio use.

Regardless of whether technology is new or old....an amp is an amp. I have an old school Kenwood home reciever with dual power suplies and FET amps (field effect transistors). It must be from the late sixties, it's rated at 90 watts total, but it absolutely cranks. Match it to the right speakers and you have more sound than you could ever possibly need in one house....unless ofcourse, there is a party of some sort.

3200 watts???  what is the need for that much power?  Sure, 3.2kW, what about the electrical system?