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how much power do i need?


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ih8u37 
Copper - Posts: 54
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 06, 2002
Posted: October 11, 2002 at 11:44 AM / IP Logged  

I wouldn't suggest a circuit breaker, they don't open as quickly as fuses blow, so enough of a surge could get past it to damage the cable.

The Maxi fuses are cheap & easy to use, but they only go up to 80 amps. If money is a huge issue, you can go with an AGU fuse & holder (the larger glass cylander type fuses). If you have about $20 for a fuse holder, & $5-$10 for the fuse, go w/ an ANL type fuse. This will give you room to expand if need be (I know ANL fuses go up to at least 200 amps), & have the best connection.

A high current amp doesn't necessarily mean it's a better amp, it's just stable at a lower ohm rate. Most standard A/B amps can run 2 ohm stereo, but not mono, so if you're wiring the voice coils in parallel & showing the amp a 2 ohm load, you will need to go w/ a class D (or class T or X), or high current series amp.

JBL I can't really comment on, as the only experience I've had with them was a long time ago (and times do change). I can vouch for Visonik, though. MA Audio owns Visonik, so if you buy a Visonik amp, you're basically buying an MA Audio amp w/ a different name. I'm running one class A/B Visonik amp pushing two Audiobahn 12's 700 watts each at 2 ohms in a small, sealed box. I've placed in every dB competition I've been in so far, & took home first place in the last one hitting 151.5 dB (you should have seen the looks on peoples faces when they saw my box was sealed, not ported). I've pushed those subs & that amp to their max for about 3 months now, & haven't had a single problem. I know 3 months doesn't seem long, but I've seen amps fry & subs blow much quicker when pushed as hard as my system has been.

A couple other good, yet cheap, companies to look at are Soundstream & Power Acoustik. I would never get a PA sub, but their sub amps work well. Just giving you a few more options.

Hope this helps

chasesaccessori 
Copper - Posts: 198
Copper spacespace
Joined: August 22, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 11, 2002 at 1:09 PM / IP Logged  

That's why you use double protection.... always....

I would use a resetable circuit breaker under the hood by the battery at the amperage you need, then you should be using a distribution block and fuse block by your amps'.  You will be able to use the cheeper fuses that are rated at what your amps' require.

The only reason you use a fuse or circuit breaker by the battery is to protect the car from a short in the power cable, not your equipment, period.....

Thats what your fuse block by the amps if for.

(owner/installer)
Chase's Accessories
Ridgecrest, CA
in business since 92
dj baracus 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: July 28, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: October 12, 2002 at 10:51 AM / IP Logged  

ive gone with the JBL600.1 !

i will install tomorrow along with an ANL style fuse (18" from the battery). The max output from the distribution block is 60A so i can keep it as AGU-style fuses, so thats cool.

The ANL style fuse was chosen for flexibility, (& cost). My total current load is 100A = (60A + 30A +15A). In the very near future, i am looking to upgrade my front 2 amps to a high quality 4-channel amp....im looking @ an older mcintosh amp, an Art-PPI, & Xtants are sweet. All will require more current, & more A's so being able to pop in a new 140A ANL fuse, will be easier & cheaper than a new circuit breaker!

thanks to all for your help, suggestions, & comments!

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