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crossover on amp and other ?’s


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stevdart 
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Joined: January 24, 2004
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Posted: August 27, 2004 at 9:39 PM / IP Logged  

Here is a Crossfire mono amp.  The subs will wire to 2 .67 ohms as shown below, so the match up is pretty good.

crossover on amp and other ?’s - Page 2 - Last Post -- posted image.

Still, your line driver should be up front.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
customsuburb 
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Posted: August 27, 2004 at 10:55 PM / IP Logged  
How about Alpine's MRD-M1001 or JL's 1000/1. Say goodbye to your warranty if you buy from the above retailor.
nyguy4u 
Copper - Posts: 148
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Posted: August 28, 2004 at 12:03 AM / IP Logged  

customsuburb wrote:
How about Alpine's MRD-M1001 or JL's 1000/1. Say goodbye to your warranty if you buy from the above retailor.

I might be leaning towards the JL 1000/1. Using that particular amp, is that the absolute most I could push my 3 15"s with?. Or is even the 1000/1 not using my subs to the fullest potential?

stevdart 
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Posted: August 28, 2004 at 2:36 PM / IP Logged  

As i said earlier, you can run 300 watts to each sub with what you have now.  You'll be doing the same with a 1000 watt amp at 2 ohms, maybe getting even less.  Look again at the ohm load you get when you wire those three subs together.  An alternator upgrade is necessary any way you go. 

If you want the full potential of your subs, all you do is add up the RMS of the three subs:  500+500+500=1500.  Your amp(s) will need to output 1500 watts.  Each sub alone will wire to either 2 ohms or 8 ohms.  The three combined will wire to 2.67 ohms.  Using that as a guide, you would have to find an amp or combination of amps to achieve that 1500 watt output at the given load.  The Crossfire I showed above outputs 2000 watts at 2 ohms, so with a combined load of 2.67 ohms the output will be closer to 1500.

Again, if you want that kind of output, it is necessary to upgrade all wiring and the alternator, and probably the battery.  But keep in mind just because a subwoofer has an RMS of 500 watts it doesn't mean that you have to give it the full wattage for it to sound either good or loud.  300 watts each will most assuredly be loud, and you'll be using less resources from your car's electrical system to achieve that.

And note to the link above:  If I show an amp, it doesn't matter to me what web site I find it at.  I'm not showing a retailer, I'm showing a product.

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
nyguy4u 
Copper - Posts: 148
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Posted: August 28, 2004 at 10:34 PM / IP Logged  

Well now I don't know what to do, i'm confused.

Here is what I did tonight though.. I changed what my friend did (which I stated a few posts back), and bridged each amp to each sub, changed the amp to "mono", wired the subs in 4 ohm, took the crossover on the amp down to 50, and took the LP crossover on the deck to 50 as well. I had it like that for about 4 hrs tonight, almost nonstop with a pretty maxed volume (we had a car show in town), and it never once cut out, no battery light ever showed up on my dash, I was turning heads waaaaaaay before I got to them, and even was setting off parked cars alarms with my bass.

So, with this current set up, approx how much do you guys think each sub is getting?. If I did decide to go with a crossfire, or JL 1000/1 amp, would I be really gainging that much?

With all that said, knowing how my friend did it, and what I just did to it.. why did he have it wired up like that to begin with? (amp in stereo, pushing 1 channel to subs, subs wired for 2 ohms). It sounds soooooooooo much better my way.

Any ideas?

stevdart 
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Posted: August 28, 2004 at 11:00 PM / IP Logged  
...That's why I suggested you wire it this way!  The subs are D4's, so now they're wired to 8 ohms, by the way.  8 ohms bridged to each amp yields 300 watts to each sub.  And no problems with the lights,etc.?  Leave it that way.  You're turning heads and are happy with the sound...no need for a change, is there?  The JL would yield the same results as far as wattage, because putting all three subs together  would make the ohm load higher, as I showed you before.  The advantage would be less amperage pull from the alternator.   The bigger 2000 watt Crossfire would increase the wattage to 1600 watts total.  Most likely would cause a need for alternator,etc upgrading.  But no need to be that loud, is there?
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
nyguy4u 
Copper - Posts: 148
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Joined: December 31, 2003
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 28, 2004 at 11:07 PM / IP Logged  

And that is why I DID wire it this way, because of your suggestion lol. I had it this way up until my friend rewired it though, why do you think he did that?. Being the wattage going to each sub was lowered, I cant really see what benefit I had.

You think I should still invest in a higher output alt with my current setup?, and if so, what should I upgrade it to?

stevdart 
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Posted: August 28, 2004 at 11:47 PM / IP Logged  

Your friend is the only one who can tell you why he wired it that way.  I thought you said you originally had the subs parallel-wired in the first post...which should have created some serious problems with the amps.  As far as more upgrades are concerned, use it for awhile and see what you think.  It didn't seem necessary from what you described from tonight.

Nope, I looked back at it and you didn't say how they were wired. 

Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
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