What to do

Correct

Aside - WOW MAN!

You've got it.  Sounds like it'll be a good setup.  I've got 150 watts running to my Kappa 10" right now.  I had 460 pushing it earlier this year.  Sounded fine but I was a little uncomfortable pushing that much over rms (it's 275 rms).  I would have been fine with like 375 or even 400 but that extra 60 watts was making me go hm.....  I had the sub playing like that for about 2 months then I decided to get another 10" (still in the process)  and run each 150 until I get a new amp.  150 watts with bass boost turned on is making one 10" really thump right now. 

Poorman:  I've seen (and have gone back and checked it out read volt meter and everything) a sub run an endurance test.  For 24 hours a Kappa Perfect ran 500 watts rms.  It played just a normal bass excursion test.  At the end of the 24 hours, they played a normal song with normal bass music and it was perfectly fine.  Seen this done to other speakers too.  Yeah you can run over rms.  The manufacturer gives you a cushion of rating so that the sub is still with-in it's limits.  Because people like us know the sub can handle it.

Thanks for that.  I am now convinced on what I need to buy.  As soon as the enclosure arrives I will see if I can fit the tall type R in the hole.

An a different note.  I need to feed a higher grade speaker wire into the door of this 1998 chev pick-up for the Kappa's that I am putting in.  Any tricks to feed that wire through the factory conduit boot in between the cab and the door?

A hanger worked good for me when getting my power wire through the firewall boot.

Just as a gesture of my appreciation to the people that contribute to this site I would like to say thanks.  I finished this very small system this weekend and it sounds better than I had hoped for.  With an Alpine CDA9835 head signaling a MRD-501(with amp link) and a MRV F340 amps which power an Apline 10" type R and Infinity seperates and rear plates respectively.  I had to cut a hole in the Q-form enclosure so the magnet would clear the back of the box.  I bought some 1/2" plexi-glass and shaped a nice looking plate to re-seal it which also means you can look right down into the back of the sub as it fires at the floor which is cool I suppose.  Managed to hide every last bit of the installation except the tweeters and those are still not easy to find when looking in from the outside.  I took pictures of the whole process as I went along and those turned out well too.

Well my purpose was to say thanks for all of the advise.  I am convinced it made the difference between what I have and what could have been a big dissapointment.

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