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s10 ex cab box


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tstrenuous10 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 13, 2004 at 12:14 AM / IP Logged  

ok im totally new to doing this. never messed with fiberglass or anything. ive read the sites and everything about doing it. i went to home depot and found a couple different things.

fiberglass mat

fiberglass cloth

resin and hardner

bondo glass....i think thats what its called

regular automotive bondo

im just wondering if the clother is the same as fleece....like...its what i lay over my mdf rings....

i know the general procedure of doing this....tape&foil the area i want to do, making sure to overcover the area in case anything happens with the resin overflowing. then after i resin the area and lay down one layer of fiberglass. after this hardenes i can apply another couple of layers and then let it dry. then i can take it out and put on a couple more layers to make it totally firm and strong. then i make the mdf rings....this is where i get confused. i read the site that everyone says is the best and i still cant understand how to make the mdf rings.

what im having the hardest problem with is how to make the rings that are flush. i can kind of understand how to make the rings that have the speaker stick out but not really.

im making an enclosure for an S12L7 in my s10 and im not too worried about how the final product LOOKS right now....more wanting to learn how to lay fiberglass and make a good enclosure so i can move on and make other things. maybe ill go back and make another enclosure but i dont think i will if someone could help me understand how to make an enclosure for these subs. ive only seen one other post with these subs and i couldnt see the pics. can someone explain to me how to rings are made and stuff..

also....should i make the very back of my sub box MDF? its going to be proly 12-15 inches tall and ive read that fiberglass is stronger on curves and its better to have MDF for flat parts......help people.

realitycheck 
Silver - Posts: 751
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 09, 2004
Posted: December 13, 2004 at 9:04 AM / IP Logged  
Alright for the rings to be flush you have to cut out one ring that your sub will sit in, cut out that hole test fit your sub in it.  Then measure the outside diameter of your sub ring, cut out that hole.  Then cut out that ring the width you want it put it on your first ring that your sub will fit in. Trace it out on that ring and cut it out, then staple or glue the two together. Voila flush mounted sub ring. Its easier and quicker to do the flat parts with mdf its up to you though whether you want to do that or glass it.  Let us know if you have any more questions.
Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!
tstrenuous10 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 13, 2004 at 11:05 AM / IP Logged  

so the first ring i make will be the one that i screw my sub into....that one is measured by the inside diameter of my sub

then i make a ring the same size as the OD of my sub

i then put my second bigger ring on top of my smaller first ring and trace the first ring onto the second.

since the OD ring is bigger then the ID ring i place both of them togther (hopefully centered) and cut the ID ring opening into the OD ring opening. i just have to remember to make the width of the ID ring equal to the spacing that kicker puts on the subs so i can screw it into place.

after i cut the opening into the OD ring i use the remaining lip i put on there to mount it on my box....with dowels.

i have access to a nail gun....would this work to keep everything wooden togther...such as the rings and dowels?

is all the stuff i listed the stuff i need? i wasnt sure on the bondo. is regular automotive bondo the same as the stuff in the blue can? i know i need the mat and the cloth and resin with hardner...just was wondering about the bondo.

realitycheck 
Silver - Posts: 751
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 09, 2004
Posted: December 13, 2004 at 2:17 PM / IP Logged  
Well the outside diameters need to be exaclty the same on both rings.  The id of the ring that the subs screws down too will be smaller than the id of the one that goes around the od of the sub ring.  I think you got what I said confused, You need to cut out your id for the sub too screw down too.  Then cut out the od of the sub ring on another one.  Take the second and cut the od of that ring to the size you desire.  Now take that ring and trace it onto your first, cut it out and put them together smaller goes on bottom.    And just use regular automotive bondo. Any more questions just put them on here.
Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!
realitycheck 
Silver - Posts: 751
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 09, 2004
Posted: December 13, 2004 at 3:40 PM / IP Logged  
Here man look at this the pics are massive and easy to see what im trying to describe and not do very well at s10 ex cab box -- posted image.   https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=45018&PN=1
Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!
tstrenuous10 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 13, 2004 at 5:22 PM / IP Logged  

ok one more thing....if i wanted to make a spot to mount my amp on top of this enclosure....would i do it the same way? i know that with the sub you put the dowels in to hold up the ring. is it the same with the amp rack....kind tryin to get an idea how to do this if i wanted to make a console and put a HU in it.

one thing i keep thinking is that the dowels might not hold up with the pressure from the sub or it would change air volume.....not a lot though....help?

Carbonb 
Copper - Posts: 113
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 09, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 13, 2004 at 7:57 PM / IP Logged  
Yes you can do it the exact same way, use dowels to hold up the box you made for your amp or headunit, and then pull fabric over everything, then I would just cut out the excess fiberglass that is over the hole for your amp rack.
tstrenuous10 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 13, 2004 at 10:49 PM / IP Logged  

and it would cut just like it did for the edges of the enclosure? im thinking of nailing the dowels to the rings which should hold them good. i finally understand the flat mount rings.....makes sense after reading and looking at the pictures. thanks guys.

how should i mount it to the truck? self tapping #12 screws come to mind immediatly since im going into the metal. i think im going to have more questions when i actually start to do this about next week....only problem is that im in reno nevada and it gets cold here....guess i could do it in the afternoon when its warmer....cold means i have more time to work right?

would making a lip with the alum. foil help to keep the resin from going all over my truck?

tstrenuous10 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 16, 2004 at 4:36 PM / IP Logged  

ok...just went out and got supplies....heres what i got

2 bruches (one 2inch one 3inch)

BONDO fiberglass mat

BONDO fiberglass cloth

BONDO resin and hardner

gloves

$36.00 home depot multi purpose breathing mask (planning on returning it...they will take any thing back)

tape (1inch wide yellow)

didnt get sand paper yet because i think i have a power sander. also decided to hold of on bondo until i need it at the end. would OSB work as good as MDF? i think i'm going to have some extra after a project and thought about it. if not i can pick up some pieces. whats is a good way to keep the resin from running onto my carpet? right now im thinking of taping up some plactic bags from the store. would that work or would the resin go through it?

tstrenuous10 
Member - Posts: 7
Member spacespace
Joined: December 12, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 16, 2004 at 10:28 PM / IP Logged  

one more thing....im thinking of another design but it involves a lot of straights.  it would be 18 inches long (one piece flat other piece would be s shape 5 inches long then 3 inch drop then the rest of the 18) and the sides would have to be sort of straight. its for a solobaric L7 and i was thinking a couple things

1. if i make the sides, top and bottom out of wood, how would i bond the fiberglass front and back to the wood?

2. if i made the whole thing out of fiberglass would it be strong enough to not break?

there was something else but im on the phone trying to get some stuff done right now.

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