2001 Caravan remote starter problem

The starter #2 output is a -  (negative) one,  which, I would think should link anything connected to it to ground during the time that Starter#1 (positive) is giving power to trigger the starter.  If you are connected from the correct cold start wire in the harness through a 180 ohm resistor to this Starter #2 port, I would think that would do the job of grounding the Cold Start wire through the resistor during firing.  If that's what you describe you have, I would think it would work.... but something doesn't.

I wonder about the resistor(s).  One post mentioned that they should be fairly "right on" in value, since it is a multiplex situation and the size of the resisor is what triggers whatever happens in the engine computer.  Presumably there is some change in the firing situation because of the cold... whether with the spark or with the fuel injection.

I tried the starter this morning.. cold time.  No luck with the remote start.  I started it with the key and let it run for about ten minutes to warm up... shut it off and tried the remote start.... started OK.

I would guess that there is no trouble with things like tach, since it starts OK when warmed up.  Since the only difference in the situation is the cold engine, it seems reasonable that the connection of the cold start wire is the key... the questions:  right wire in the harness?  right resistor value?  grounding during the strarter cycle?

One way of testing might be to take the lead connected to the cold start wire, through the resistor, and just hold it.  Start with the remote at a cold time, and touch that wire to ground during the cranking... if it triggers the engine start, then the approach works to that point.  Then either use starter #2 as the grounding, or if that doesn't work, use a relay either switched by starter 1 or 2 to ground it.

hello, well the starter #2 (or ignition #2 or acc #2) wire comming out of the command start unit is a positive output,   so that would have to be changed to a negative output by use of the relay.  and as for the resistor value, the resistors we have i beleive there is  10% variation in rating,  and when i used my multimeter i had something in the high 180 ohm range and with a 10% variation  that gives me 18 ohms either way of the 180 ohm mark. so the resistor value is right,  but what i am going to do next time is i'm going to put a relay off the starter #2 output from the unit and change it to a negative pulse and ground it with the 180 ohm resistance like someone had sent me a diagram on how to do it.  cause it is obviously something to do with the cold start wire and might be something that's just not showed up untill your van came along,  cause like i had posted befor the other installer said that he's always used the ground out when running output for the negative cold start wire.  so once i try it and if it works then i've found the way that i'm doing all the other dodge vehicles that come in with that set up of wireing.

Hi... the "Installer Companion" sheet that was in the box for the remote shows Starter #2 as negative (but maybe it's indicating that the result from Cold Start wire has to be negative (thru relay), starter #1 as positive, however the installation manual seems to list #2 it as 30 amp output (confusing).  It does list this port as "programmable", however.... "Auxiliary relay programming:  If the vehicle requires a second ignition, starter or accessory wire, the control has a built in programmable relay.  Selecting the field you wish to program, determines the output of the fifth relay."     ????????????

As to whether the situation is new, one of the other threads mentioned that after 2001 they changed the engine computer and that they often flashed the computers of the older models (like 2001) if they came into the dealer, to upgrade them.  When they flashed them, the cars apparently needed the cold start wire hooked up correctly; before the update flash it apparently didn't matter.  Perhaps this van has had the ICM flashed and behaves like the later model Caravans.  Apparently it's been common for the remote starters not to work after the ICM has been flashed, because they didn't have the cold start wire connected (since it didn't need it at that time).

I won't be in this week, and the shop is probably booked anyway.  I'll call and make an appointment for the week between Christmas and New Years if there is space, since I'm off,  and you can have at it.  I'm sure you will defeat it eventually!

Have a Merry Christmas!    :o)

Back to the initial topic.... the remote start issue is over.  I installed the additional relay and tapped it to the starter wire from the remote module  for triggering, and that additional relay grounds the Cold Start wire through the resistors when the starter is running.  It starts perfectly, at all temperatures.  I had booked to take it to the shop in Tuesday for another attempt, but I'll cancel that tomorrow (if anyone is in... looks like we are getting a blizzard).  You can probably use the time for someone else, since this one has cost you on the labor front, after four trips.   Thanks for your work so far.

However... it is erratic on normal starting now (with the key).  Sometimes starts with the key, sometimes will not, just cranks.  Starts perfectly with the remote.  The only change is the Cold Start wire being run through a relay (and resistance) to ground when the remote is being used...  I'll have to think about any possible disruption of the cold start wire circuit when the remote is not being used.

Any suggestions, anyone????

After doing some thinking about it (particularly in the early hours of the morning, when problems seem clearer), I have a hunch that my problem with not starting with the key much of the time might be from running the additional relay by tapping off the Starter 1 wire.  When you start with the key, this wire would be energized from the other (key) end (since it's hooked to the key starter wire), and would also trip the relay, giving the Cold Start wire TWO routes to ground through resistance-- with the key and with the new relay.   This will provide the resistance in parallel,  cutting the effective resistance in half (probably below the threshold of what the ICM wants to see for whatever it does with a cold engine).

Assuming the Starter 2 output on the remote starter module is isolated from Starter 1 when not being started remotely, I'll try hooking the relay to it (when the weather improves for driveway mechanics).

In the meantime, stang, I'd suggest hooking the relay for the cold start wire only to Starter 2 for triggering (assuming that also does the job of triggering the relay).    IMHO