New Head Unit Skiping or Breaking up

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twofootthumpin

Member - Posts: 39

Joined: January 09, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 11, 2005 at 8:53 PM / IP Logged

Mainly it is caused because of excessive heat internally with the amp so it is running at a low ohm load but with the problem of low ohms in a unstabe amp it creates a lot of heat which interns to very poor SQ. With the addition of a fan and or other cooling extras it doesnt take care of your ohms problem but mearly covers it up. With the high heat problem the amp over heats which makes it harder to operate at normal effecientcy so it draws the extra current so it can make up the difference from the loss of effecientcy. Might I ask what speakers you are running off from this head unit and if you are running a external amp for subs or such? if you dont mind I would like to know for ferther reference in case it happens again with antoher person and just for my own knowledge.

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Jay T

Copper - Posts: 169

Joined: December 02, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: January 11, 2005 at 9:10 PM / IP Logged

its not drawing too much current. if it was the fuse would blow. its drawing close to maximum current allowed, and causing it to get hot internally, interfering with the other components in the unit. If you're running external amps you can set it so that your head unit isn't working at such a high level. If the unit is new, consider taking it back due to your application.

One thing people overlook is the heat generated due to their heating vents in the vehicle. A lot of vehicles' heating vents are routed right close to where the head unit sits. In these cold months, (Especially up here in the great white north) if you blast your heater non stop, it will only add to an existing thermal problem your unit may already have.

It would be great to get another opinion and vehicle differences from someone else who owns this unit.

twofootthumpin

Member - Posts: 39

Joined: January 09, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 11, 2005 at 9:14 PM / IP Logged

With this cd player set up there is no inline fuse that is close enough to catch the current raise, let alone you might just want to check that the next time that you think of it.

customsuburb

Gold - Posts: 1,813

Joined: January 17, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: January 11, 2005 at 9:55 PM / IP Logged

It's simple...most JVC units are a piece... If you have subs then your problem is probobly the unit is shaking too much. You might try some dynamat on the mount and a backstrap if you don't have one already. I wouldn't be surprised if it's overheating. If it's drawing too much current then any fuse, inline or inside the unit, should blow. It dosn't matter if its on the constant or battery power line.

twofootthumpin I don't understand how a amplifier inside the head-unit needs to be set up right at the factory. It's just plain and simple. JVC wanted to go for looks and a kameleon faceplate and not have a big price tag. With those principles most of the money probobly went into the exterior and not R&D...

twofootthumpin

Member - Posts: 39

Joined: January 09, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 12, 2005 at 7:42 AM / IP Logged

Ok I ran out of time last night in my explaination, every head unit has a normal operating current draw, DUH, but when you have a ohms rateing problem of being too low it draws more than the normal operating amperage, ITS NOT ENOUGH TO BLOW THE FUSE but it still enough to do some damage to the head unit and the amp in it, it doesnt go over the rated amperage of the fuse but it still too much for normal operating draw.

Jay T

Copper - Posts: 169

Joined: December 02, 2003

Location: Canada

Posted: January 12, 2005 at 8:26 AM / IP Logged

twofootthumpin:

Do you mean he's wired his speakers incorrectly?(ohms) or you think its an internal resistance problem? I'm not sure what you're saying

twofootthumpin

Member - Posts: 39

Joined: January 09, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 12, 2005 at 10:36 AM / IP Logged

Wired incorrectly means that if he owns 4 speakers at 4 ohms runs rears and front in parallel it run it below the recomended rating on the amp or if it is factory speakers it could even be lower rating than 4 ohms which would make the problem even worse.

hoaxs

Copper - Posts: 95

Joined: December 06, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: January 12, 2005 at 7:24 PM / IP Logged

right now im running infinity kappas 6x9 in the rear and stock 4x6 in the the front. And yes i do live in illinois and do have the heater on right now. I thought of that to that the heat ducts do run over the head unit. I am also running no extra amps or subs. And no i do not have the wires ran wrong. The wiring harrness was bought from circut city and they have the idiot proof ones. And I know JVCs suck but i just couldn't pass up FREE. Also don't forget that i have a 2004 cavilier and i had to do a fuse tap for the Remote 12 Volt because the wiring harrness did not have one. So what is the proplem if it's drawing to much current none fo the fuses have blown or is because of the heat from the heater. Or is it both. Thanks this has come out better than i expected.

Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less

twofootthumpin

Member - Posts: 39

Joined: January 09, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: January 12, 2005 at 8:31 PM / IP Logged

Well at least you are running good speakers in the rear, infinity kappas at 4 ohms are very nice for quality of sound, I have this feeling that you are working up for the fronts which might possibly be your problem if they are of a different ohm reating than your infinities and could be creating the problem. I would advise you not to run the ducting over the cd player for fear of haveing more than air run over and into the player, this is why I recamended the fan but facing away for the player. I dont know if I just wrote it worng but I am not saying that you are running the wires incorrectly I am just saying that it could be a possiblity that your speakers are creating a incompatibility problem with the internal amp in you cd player, I am glad that you went to circuit city for a wiring harness if you did not want to try to tackle the wiring in the vehicle, it always works better that way. I am also agreeing with you on free I dont care what other people say JVC is better than stock and normally it works better than nothing. No I dont think it is because of the heater, maybe if you were running a few large amps and it was creating some kind of weird amperage drop from the battery but your not so I am saying that ones out. Like I said before, every head unit has a set amperage draw for normal use, hypatheticly 7-13 amps sometimes lower sometimes higher so for this situation lets say its at 10 just to make it easy. If when you turn it on it draws 10 amps and spins a disc and pushes your rms wattage to the speakers, you turn it up cause its some sweet music and you want your neighbors to hear it as well and it draws 13 amps to push the extra 25 or so watts on bass hits and extreme highs, but because of the fact that the resistance from the speakers is not all the same or it is below the rateing for the internal amp it starts to draw 14 amps and doesnt go down when you turn your music down, but isnt enough draw to blow any fuses just enough to make things operate incorectly which creates your heat problem internally in your cd player. Because this is a hypathetical situation numbers are going to be off and certain situations might be different but hopefully you now understand what I am saying, I know this because I had the same exact problem with a cd player that I installed about two months ago.

Sorry its a little long but I had a few points to get accross.

customsuburb

Gold - Posts: 1,813

Joined: January 17, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: January 12, 2005 at 9:25 PM / IP Logged

Every headunit works like that... Any speaker you buy is not going to always present a 4 ohm load to the amplifier and the amp's current draw won't be constant either. It just overheats plain and simple, because it wasn't designed well.

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