Top Notch Comp. Subs

i am not using ports right now.  i do understand how ports work.  my seats do fold down so i would not need to port the trunk, only the box.  i really like the Power Acoustik MOFO 12" and 15".  to power them what amps would be recommended?  i was looking at the PowerAcoustik A3000DB but it is a bit pricey to be purchasing more than one.  the trunk is rather large so where would be the best location for the subs?  also which direction should they face?Cpl Moose

USMC Iraq

I don't think you'll be taken seriously in a comp if you're using generic Power Acoustic gear, even in beginner's.  The early replies in this thread were in line with the subject, and you might re-look at some suggestions there.  Be prepared to sink some money into your setup.  Power is $$.

Stay away from the power acoustik stuff and stick with some of the brands mentioned earlier in the thread. Depending on how much power your going to be pulling, you will probably need a H/O alt. and maybe a second battery. Most importantly, plan before you do anything so you dont waste your time and money and end up with something you are not happy with.

unless you are going to do something stupid like me and pout (8) 12 inch cheap subs in a festiva.    Then people will take your seriously.   haha.    SPL takes a long time and a lot of knoledge to get anywhere in a comp.    I have been playing in USACi for the last 4 years.    currently hitting low 140's on the term lab with a street beat box.    2 10's and a 25x2 amp.   hmmm forgot to mention the subs are eclipse, and the 25x2 is 1/2 ohm stable and does 1/4 ohm burps.2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR

2007 USACI World Champion

2007 World Record

2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place

Bah..this post has had some major newbie comments such as "damn those magnets are big!"..seriously if you plan on competing do some reading...not to sound rude..but you seem very uninformed about what it actually takes to be an SPL competitor. Also, ports dont create sound. Ports are simply used for moving air.Start by reading www.bcae1.com ...it should give you lots of useful information..read the whole site...and then read it again..and again.Dave

Pioneer Premier DEH-P660

15" Kicker CVR

Profile AP1000M

It's Loud

WOW those subs have some big phat surround on them and those magnets are ginormous. With those subs you are sure to be bumping out big numbers, but if your ports are big enough then it shouldnt matter what subs you got going because the ports make the bass, right? Geezz, we should rename this thread "The misinformation needed to succeed at sound offs". There is definatly some good info in this thread but there is a lot of bullsh*t to sift through to get to it. I am gonna throw my .02 in like I always do and if someone thinks I am wrong then tell me so cause I make my fair share of mistakes. First things first for sound offs, what class are you gonna do and do you know the rules. If not then figure that out. Second, dont but sh*t cause it aint goona cut it. Like Jeff said you can win with second rate subs like he did and like I do, but you need to be able to throw a wack of power at them and the install has to be bang on. Third, make sure you have the proper power to compete. I am not talking about amps here, but instead charging system. You need to make sure that your vehicle is capable of pulling up to the lanes, turning off your car, blasting the system for your run, then restarting the car, driving out of the lanes, and recharging the system before your next run. If you cant do this then you are dead in the water before you even start. Fourth. Make sure you got a strong signal running to your amps. You shouldnt really try to seriously compete without a minimum of a 4 volt deck, preferebly higher. Reason being is the stronger the signal going to the amps the less chance of clipping the signal which will result in not cooking your woofers, at least not from a sh*tty signal. Fifth. You do not have to run a ported box but in smaller comp systems, such as one or 2 drivers I see much more success with ported boxes then sealed. However tuning the box to 25-30 hz is not what you want to do. You want to find out what the resonate frequency of the vehicle is and tune it to that. If your vehicle sits at 58 hz then tune your box to that. Might sound like sh*t but it will be loud. If you dont want to sacrifce the SQ to do this then make a system with either changable ports or make it so you can change the box from sealed to ported and back again. WARNING, this is not an easy thing to do properly and if you try to build a box in this fashion and dont do it right its gonna sound like crap. While this is not everything you need to know, its a start. If you have more questions then feel free to ask as there are a few of us on here who have competed and can probally help. Jeff for example is very good at these types of questions. Sorry to any I offended with the opening to this thread but I figured it needed to be said ad I had a bad day so some one must pay. Damn thats a few to many rhymes. Anyways like I said before, If I am wrong then someone feel free to correct me. double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer