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Smart 4 Windows Module


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CBill 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2004
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 7:42 PM / IP Logged  

I purchased a smart 4 windows module ACCWR-8-4  and I planning on installing it in conjuction with my remote alarm system which is a M3700 from Megatronix and this is my first windows module I ever installed and wasn't sure about the trigger part to roll up the windows ..

Anyway .. I am wanting to hook it up that whenever I arm the system it will roll up my windows or if I use the aux channel on the remote and ahve one other aux channel to roll down the windows ..  The module is a 4 up or 2 up and down so I am planning on hooking it up as a 2 up and down .. 

My concern is that the paper say it's a (-) pulse or (-) constant trigger and I do have a wire on my alarm system that give a (-) constant trigger when it's armed but I was wondering if (-) is constantly feeding to the windows module while it's arm that will it still allow me to remote roll down the windows or I have to disarm first to shut off the constant ground to the module before I could roll it down. 

If that was going to be an issue then I was going to hook the windows to the lock output via relay switch so whenever the arm system send a pulse ground to lock the car it'll trigger the relay switch to send the pulse ground to the window module as well too but the problem is the alarm system have a feature built in to lock the door when the engine is running however I think that can be disabled on the alarm system..

I did think about hooking it up to the horn or dome light trigger then I remember it will send repeating pulse to the module if the alarm went off and was afraid it'll overburden the module or burn it out while the alarm is going off.

Any suggestion?? or Tips?? It's my first windows module I will be installing..

Thanks,

Bill

stubs 
Member - Posts: 31
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Joined: August 19, 2004
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 8:23 PM / IP Logged  

Why not wire it to the central locking as you suggested.. but include a relay to prevent it operating whilst the ignition is on?

That way, you can keep your ign-locking feature.

CBill 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2004
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 8:31 PM / IP Logged  

That could be an idea .. 

 I think it doable but would take a quite thinking to do to keep it operatable via door panel switches but disabled at the windows module .. problem is that for the module to work it have to be in a direct contact with the motors so it can detect that the motor have dc load knowing it have reached at the end the track to shut off and you can't bypass the module without the risk of shorting it out ..   I am not sure if the door panel switch will still be operatable  if the 12 volt was disconnected from the module to diable it that you can still roll up and down the windows with the door panel

But it something Ill look into .. thanks for the idea!

Bill

CBill 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2004
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 8:35 PM / IP Logged  

I just thought about it and forgot to mention it a remote start as well too ..  if I bypass it with a relay while the ign is on then I won't be able to roll down the windows via remote when the engine is running remotely ..

Oh well back to the drawing board but it was a good idea for non-remote systems ..

Bill

P.S. Don't this forum have edit feature so i could go back and correct my grammar and spelling? =P

stubs 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2004
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 8:42 PM / IP Logged  

Does your remote start system only power the "coil side" of the car?.. If so, then take your ign input (for the windows) from the key side of the circuit.

CBill 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2004
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 9:18 PM / IP Logged  

Not sure what you mean by the key side of the circuit ..

 Are you saying to diode the Ign wires from the system and connect the wire to the key side so it still does not see the power from the remoted running engine but is sees it when it's keyed running engine .. That is an idea but I would hate to put a diode in something that require lots of current expecially an Ign system so I rather want to avoid this. I might just disable the Ign-lock feature on the alarm and connect it to a relay then to the power lock so when the power lock is triggered it'll roll up the windows.

I am going to see what happen when you try to roll down the window when there a constant ground to the up trigger of the module and hopefully that will do nothing since the paper that came with the module said pulse or constant trigger  .. Annoying thing would be I will need to disarm before I could roll down my windows but the passive arm would rearm the system and roll my windows back up hehehe ..

Bill

stubs 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2004
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 9:59 PM / IP Logged  

If the ignition wire is immobilised, you'll have 2 wires.. on will be from the key side of the circuit (which will not be active whilst remote start is active) and the other side will be coil side.. i.e. the side of circuit that the remote start powers.

Normally, the ignition wire of the alarm will be connected to the key side of the circuit, that way, the alarm can distinguish between running on remote start, and the user turning the key on.

hope that makes sense.

CBill 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2004
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 10:22 PM / IP Logged  

Not sure what you mean by that ..

This is how it's connected to my Ign

Violet wire - Starter output which is connect to a disable starter relay then to the starter

Red wire - 12 +

Yellow wire - Ign 1 Output - connected to Ign 1

Pink Wire - Ing 2 Output - connected to Ign 2

Brown Wire - Accessory Output - connected to Acc

I'll have to find a wiring diagram tech sheet and take a look to get a better picture of what your trying to tell me .. It's a 1995 S-10 Blazer ..

Bill 

stubs 
Member - Posts: 31
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2004
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: January 25, 2005 at 10:35 PM / IP Logged  

Take this for example....

http://www.directechs.com/guides/manuals/ig/clifford/intellistart4_install.pdf

Goto page 2 & look at the part of the diagram illustrating the ignition switch connections.

The WHITE/ Brown wire going to "security system control unit" is the key side of the ignition circuit (this is where I suggested connecting your window module to)

The GREEN/ Blue wire going to "security system control unit" & "Intellistart 4 control unit" is the coil side of the ignition circuit. This is the side that is powered by the remote start, when active.

CBill 
Member - Posts: 28
Member spacespace
Joined: December 21, 2004
Posted: January 26, 2005 at 6:16 AM / IP Logged  

Ah now I understand what your trying to tell me ..

Well my alarm doesn't cut this Ign wire so it won't work for this system since the only wire that is cut is the starter wire like I said I could do that if I put a diode in there but I don't really want to put a diode on a high current wire and only having it going bad on me one day that it would died on the road somewhere ..

Thanks for the idea but none of the Ign wires is cut . Alarm wire above is only latched to it and the Ign circuit is not cut or seperated on this model ..

Bill

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