How many farads?

If you start off from your battery with 1/0 gauge, you need to end at your grounding point with 1/0 gauge. What is in the middle is relatively unimportant from an in/out standpoint...you can buy an adaptor to go from 1/0 gauge to 4 gauge to fit in your amp. Someone else will need to provide you with a link for one, though.

Even though I'm sure you meant this in jest, this is not completly true or accurate. And I'm not just talking about the reference to JL Audio - this goes for just about any company that is worth a dime. You do not pay for the name (technically speaking), although lots of people think of it that way. Just something to think about...

I wouldn't reccomend a seat belt bolt as a good ground. It might be better then other places but drilling a hole directly on the chassis is usually better. I think GM uses "gorilla snot" around their seat belt bolts so using one of those bolts with that stuff around it would not be a good ground at all.

I second that, a seatbelt bolt is actually in 99% of the cases a bad grounding point as they are basically a nut spot welded to the sheetmetal and not to the frame. This spot welding creates a high resistance for current to pass through.The "gorilla snot" also makes the matter even worse. Had it been "dog slobber" you would have been good to go.

The BIG 3 also has a much older and wiser 4th brother. This 4th brother if needed is a ground direct to the battery. If the spot you have chosen for your grounds has a return resistance of 1/2 ohm or greater (ewwww) then it is best to ground direct to the battery with as large a wire as the power wire. It is called resistance on the ground return and what it equates to is you eating a foot long sub and then someone sewing your butt shut. Current flows from negative to positive as most people are aware, the ground wire is the most important wire there is, make sure that it is done properly and not the assumed correct way.

This Is starting to get annoying.... But hey....I'lll do as you say...

I know you'll be angry at this one....but I"m having a difficult time figuring out why my 4 gauge ground isn't good enough....  It's not making sense to me, and I can't see where you're coming from.... I guess you'll have to go slow on that part...   But this is how I'm interpreting my setup.  I have 1/0 gauge coming from my battery to the rear of my SUV.  At the rear I have a Fused distribution block  (it's a Scosche EFX ANL and AGU fuse distrobution block)   After flowing through a 150 amp ANL fuse,  the power is picked up by 4 gauge power wire which travels to my amplifier.  I see the 1/0 gauge as (now this is the best way i could put what i'm thinking into words) extending the battery's positive terminal to the rear of the truck.  I see the distribution block as the PICKUP for the battery's power.  Then I see my 4 gauge picking up power through this block,  and putting it into the amplifier.  I then see the ground as being my entire vehicle's body,  which is also an "EXTENSION" of the battery's negative terminal.

Current flows from negative to positive. This makes the ground wire the most important wire there is. Think of it this way, even though the sheet metal of the car and the chassis are huge amounts of metal, they are full of impurities and they are for the most part not a continueous path. Meaning, most car bodies are unibody, meaning the sheet metal is glued together or spot welded only. This makes current transfer a problem. It is not about the amount of metal in the return to the battery, it is about the resistance through it.

In principle a ground wire of 3' or less is the assumed way to properly wire a ground wire. For most systems and vehicles it is not a problem. You must measure the ground return resistance to ensure a correct and proper ground. A correct and proper ground will have a resistance reading of 1/2 ohm or less. If it is higher than this, it is an improper ground and all sorts of issues can arise, especially once an amp starts to draw large amounts of current. A small problem at low volume becomes a large problem at high volume. 99.99% of installers never check the ground return resistance or even think to ask the customer about it. We just had a customer who refused to have his ground wire done properly in a new Mazda RX8. We took all precautions possible to ensure that his ground was as good as it could be based on this. His return reistance reading was 4.6 ohms. He has blown his 1001BD Rockford amp 4 times in 5months due to this reading. Change the wire to a direct 4 gauge line to the battery resulted in a .03 ohm reading, hook up a new temporary amp and voila, monster ouput and no issues.

Find out what your return resistance reading is. Use your meter on the resistance setting. Take one probe and attach it to the neg terminal on the battery. Take the other probe and attach it to the end of the ground wire before it goes into the amp. (disconnect from the amp). If the probes do not reach use a jumper wire to extend one of the probes. Measuer this line for any resistance reading and subtract it from the total.

I think I may be cured.