Double Relay - Possible Issue?

I'm starting to really love this site. I just saw a post about installing a double relay to keep the radio on until the door opens. Some of the issues discussed in the post got me thinking...

Last fall I installed a ProStart CT-3200 remote starter in my '92 Pathfinder. All went well (and is working great) except that I couldn't get the trunk trigger to work. I used a relay to reverse the polarity of the signal. This allowed me to unlatch the trunk, but the signal stayed on, not allowing the latch to close again, until I would disconnect the relay.

So....

I noticed in my Nissan repair manual this weekend that there is a relay for the rear hatch (trunk) located in the rear of the vehicle. That means there are 2 relays in the circuit. I have not checked this relay to confirm what it is.

Could this "double relay" be giving me a problem? If so, can someone give me any suggestions here? And if you can, please "dumb it down" a bit. I'm just starting to get the hang of relays, but am nowhere near an expert.

Thanks Guys (and Gals)

Hey auex, we're talking about a ProStart unit here . They only have pulsed output's and no way of changing it to a latched or constant. The Pathfinder uses a (+) output to trigger the hatch to open. All you need to do is find the LIGHT GREEN/ RED wire at the switch and wire in this relay: http://www.velocitymotorsport.com/images/install_notes/206.jpg

This will use the (-) from the Prostart and convert it to a (+) that the hatch release can use. The wire off the ProStart will only be pulsed.

Thanks for the comments Guys. I figured I might get that kind of shot about the ProStart. I've read other posts where guys have bashed them. Actually, aside from this one glitch, the unit has performed well. And it was only $100.

As far as the issue goes, I originally installed a new relay to reverse the polarity as mentioned. The rear window unlatched, but didn't re-latch. Almost as if it was more than just a pulse. This wouldn't be a bum relay would it?

Any more thoughts (and BTW feel free to bash away ;-)) )

Hey Jeff,

I just noticed that your relay configuration is different than the one shown under the "Basic - Relays" page on this site.

Yours shows 85 and 30 as 12V+ with 86 as the (-) out from the module.

The page on this site that I used to wire the relay shows 86 and 30 as 12V+ with 85 as the (-) out from the module...

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp

What gives??? Which one is right???

You're right, they're the same ;-).  I went out last night and tried wiring it in both ways with the same result - - not good.

When I press the button, the latch opens, but it does not close. If I disconnect the (-) trigger wire from the relay, the latch closes. If I reconnect it again, the latch opens again. Apparently, the "pulse" from the module is not a "pulse". I haven't taken the time to see how long the signal actually stays active.

The solutions????

• Is there something I can install in the (-) trigger or the (+) output to the latch actuator that would cut the signal off  - - like a timer? Can relays do this?
• or...
• I could install a simple toggle switch in the circuit to either cut the (-) trigger signal or the (+) output to the latch actuator. At least this would allow me to initially open the latch (with an arm full of groceries). I could then flip the swich and leave it off for a while to "reset" the system.
• or...
• I could try and figure out why the module is sending an continuous signal instead of a pulse - maybe this is programable.

Any more thoughts. I hugely appreciate the input.

Jeff,

The wire is a blue wire in the 12-pin Accessories harness. According to the installation manual (I just checked it on-line),  this wire is...

Function:   (-) AUX 3 (Trunk) output

Description:  500 mA negative output. This output can be used to control trunk release (1-sec. pulse). AUX3 operates only when ignition is OFF or when the vehicle is running under remote control.

So, it appears as if the "1-sec. pulse" is not in fact not a pulse at all. Could this mean the module itself is malfunctioning? Go ahead, tell me "I told you so..." ;-)))

"I told you so..." 

Bring in the CPU to CT and get a new one on warranty. That's all I can say but the wire is suppose to be a pulsed.