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High Beams on without momentarily blankin


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2000 Jeep Chero 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 18, 2005 at 7:20 AM / IP Logged  

OK,

You can tell I'm STILL thinking about this one!  My existing Fused/Relayed Upgraded H4 Harness is plugged into the stock oem H4 plug.  Can I pull that plug, take the parking light hot and go to where the low beam h4 harness is?  That way, if I'm thinking this through, the signal to trip the relays will come from the parking lights and use the existing connections to my low beam HID's ???

If so, then I would only need to use my PIAA (Highs) 12v+ and go to the high side of the upgraded H4 harness?  Would they interfere with each other since they're both on the same set of relays/power?  The trigger for the lows would be from the parking light wire and the trigger for the highs would be from the Piaa's?  Hopefully, I'm not back to square one???

Thanks - I'm just looking for a way to keep my existing harness and perhaps avoid duplicating the relay set-up

bwharvey 
Member - Posts: 26
Member spacespace
Joined: August 29, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: February 18, 2005 at 11:29 PM / IP Logged  

I'm confused with the Piaa highs 12Volt+ wire your describing.  The part your describing using the park light to trigger the lows on the existing HID harness is cool.  I would use the high beam trigger to operate your Piaa High beams either wired off the factory harness if wattage allows you to without overloading the factory harness, or with another upgraded harness.  Try to keep your systems simple and isolated if possible. 

later Brock

2000 Jeep Chero 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 19, 2005 at 8:14 AM / IP Logged  

Hmmm.  I thought this was getting too easy - And I was going to begin diggin into it in a few minutes.  The Upgraded harness is connected DIRECTLY to the oem harness in a plug and play fashion,  It provides direct battery power that's fused and through separate relays.  In our idea before my last brainstorm, we were connecting the parking light 12v to a realy to kick 1HID and then do the same on the other side.  I've seen a couple of schematics that have 1 relay used but both HID's fused before and after the relay.  Then we were going to use the 12V Piaa to the UPGRADED High Beam leg.  So, technically, the HID's wold be off of the existing upgraded harness and esentially re-wired.  The Piaa's WOULD use th upgraded harness.

After thinking that through with the relays and wiring - I thought I would try and flip it by using the Upgraded Harness for the HID's as is, but disconnect it from the OEM harness (still receiving the 12V trigger off of the parking lights) and then it WOULD be isolated.

Then, the 12V+ from the piaa's CAN go to the OLD OEM High beam trigger through ONE relay and fuse.  That way, the HID's would come on with the parking lights using the upgraded H4 Harness that's been disconnected from the OEM harness AND the HIGH Beam Piaa's would be controlled from the EXISTING High Beam Switch / Flash To Pass Swithch through the ORIGINAL OEM harness via a relay/fuse.

Am I crazy, or is this the ABSOLUTE easiest way to pull this off.  I think it may be!

Please let me know as soon as you can - my hope is to start within minutes!  Rick

2000 Jeep Chero 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 19, 2005 at 12:20 PM / IP Logged  

Update:

I took the 12V hot side of the parking lights directly to the input of the upgraded harness' low beam (Disconnected it from the OEM harness completely) and tested one side and it works on OEM switch parking lights AND on Head lights - PERFECT!

Then, I ran the PIAA 12V+ lead to the OEM HIGH Beam harness and the Flash to Pass AND High Beams work perfect and are totally independent of the HID's! I (at this point) have NO additional relays OR fuses since I don't think I really need them, right?

The Upgraded Harness is protected with relays AND fuses and the PIAA's are on minimally and are getting power from the OEM harness and the wattage is identical to Stock Headlamps @ 55 watts/side. Am I ok with this? I have not tried HID #2 yet … still in test mode - but this SEEMS to be PERFECT!

Comments?

Thanks, Rick!

2000 Jeep Chero 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 19, 2005 at 5:03 PM / IP Logged  

Brock,

OK…

So, here’s how it ended up: My parking lights will now control my HID’s, and my Flash-To-Pass and High Beam are hooked up to my PIAA’s via the column stalk. EXACTLY how I wanted it and FUNCTIONING … at least during my minute or two testing.

I took the 12V+ from the parking lights DIRECTLY to the Low Beam INPUT wire of my upgraded/fused/relayed harness that gets power DIRECTLY from the battery. I disconnected the OEM socket from the Upgraded harness so it is completely independent now. It was initially getting the 12V+ from the OEM socket via the dash mounted headlight switch. I did not use ANY relays or ANY additional fuses since the upgraded harness has both already. Am I correct in assuming this?

Then, I ran the PIAA 12V+ to the original OEM High Beam socket – also without ANY fuse or relay since the current draw should be that of the originals: 55 watts(ish). Am I correct in assuming that this is also OK?

I REALLY don’t want to do anything else with regard to wiring and relays and fuses and soldering and shrink tube/tape stuff if I don’t ABSOLUTELY need to, you know what I mean?

Thanks again for all of your assistance throughout my "little project" and I look forward to your thoughts on the outcome!

Rick

2000 Jeep Chero 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 21, 2005 at 9:48 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks!
 
2 Issues I just discovered since the install yesterday: 
 
1.  I "forgot" about my VIper alarm pulsing the lights to confirm Arm/Disarm.  Pulsing HID's is NOT a good idea!  I may be able to disable that feature by reprogramming - but I would rather not.  Sounds like some sort of potential relay issue there?   And, if the siren chirp is separate - I may be ok.  If they're together, I may be hosed.
 
2.  My left blinker is now super fast.  The hyper blink feature, I believe, is designed to tell you that there's a light out.  I think it's sensing that I'm pulling 12V from that line and the resistance is confusing it.  the Right side is fine (I pulled the trigger power from the left).  I've had that trouble before and wiggled the front left bulb and socket and it's been better since.  I don't know if the problem was JUST caused by me pulling 12V from the line or not.  I know that others sell resistors to solve that problem ...
 
Any initial ideas?
I'm going to look for the programming book for my alarm now.
 
Thanks,
Rick
the1alchemist 
Copper - Posts: 65
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: February 04, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 23, 2005 at 9:32 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry i didn't exactly follow the whole progression of events,but a couple diodes,and a capacitor would be able to hold a bosch or similar relay for a few seconds easy!(assuming 120-180 ma coil-current draw)
If you haven't solved your dilemma yet..lemme know,it's too late in the day for electronic calculations..well,to be honest I get a ballpark figure in my head,and a little experimentation irons out the plans...
blah..blah...
lemme know..
from what i read,If i understand correctly you are using the factory headlight wies to only trigger relays anyway..so a diode(stripe towards your lowbeams relay,otherwise it won't work) then on the stripe side of the diode you put a polar cap to store enough power to hold the relay for a couple secs..depending on the current draw of the relay..start with like 2000 mf...see how long that holds..I am thinking it is only DURING the pulling of the FTP stalk(like NOT when its all the way back,just at a point in-between ?? it would just take a larger cap,that would last longer than the longest time you think you will hold the stalk in the temporary-highbeam position ..
did you get all that?(did you still NEED it?)
either way..lemme know..we can easily tweak the situation ..
I have had to hold a radio on through the starting of the vehicle...with a lot smaller cap than I thought! the microprocessor was flipping out with the on-off cycle(it just needed to be reset,not like a ballast or bulb;replaced..)
anyway,whatever the size of the first cap was,the radio stayed on for like over a min!
just don't forget the diode..if it is doing what I think,you MAY not need it,but just use it..It will prevent needing a pill-bottle sized cap!
and again..
lemme know if this info is still needed...
can't cost $5...
'Stereo' Mike
The Audio CARtist,LLC
9600 Balt. Ave.
College Park,MD 20740
301-474-6260
2000 Jeep Chero 
Member - Posts: 43
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 23, 2005 at 9:40 PM / IP Logged  

Mike,

Thanks.  That sound a bit over my head ... but perhaps manageable.  I was able to solve my final issue of my HID's "pulsing" along with my parking lights.  I used another relay off of SWITCHED hot to break that connection between my parking lights and my low beam grigger for my HID's.  Now, when my car is OFF - my headlights will not work - which I'm fine with.  And, when my alarm "chirps" and "flashes" to confirm arm/disarm - ONLY the parking lights flash as initially installed.

If you read my early threads ... the problem sort of changed mid-way through.  First my issue was that I was losing my High Beam function since I added HID's.  I wanted a way to keep them on WHILE using the FTP or High Beams ON so as not to freak them out with the power surge.  It's an interesting read and I did it for much less $$$ than I was initially thinking about!

Thanks for looking at it and let me know your thoughts after you read through them - if you have the time.

Rick

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