I am the friend who actually hooked up the 529T in Rizzy's Civic and felt the need to chime in on this thread. First of all, nothing personal to you Auex, but if you've been doing this "professionally" and refuse to do a sunroof because you can't figure it out, well, I think you need to find another line of work. By no means am I a "professional" installer, but I have yet find a system/project that I can't install. I've installed numerous alarms for friends, family and myself. I've installed 529s/530s, installed remote start on my manual transmission vehicle as well as remote start systems on many cars. I've installed countless stereo/multimedia systems including my own Pioneer DVD system. I could easily get a job doing this at a shop if I wanted to, but its more of a hobby for me and not something I would want to do on a daily basis. I can't quite figure out why you posted "if you can't figure it out when you have the wiring in front of you then you shouldn't be doing it", but yet you said yourself that you refuse to do them because you can't figure it out yourself, even though your a "professional" Again, this isn't a flame at all, but your post wasn't beneficial by any means.
Now, onto how it is actually done. (I won't charge you even though this is job training for you )
The other posters are corect in that you have to tap into the motor wires directly. A 529T cannot drive relays because relays won't show the 529 the voltage drop that it needs for it to shut of. If you tap into the motor wires directly, from the open position the sunroof will go to the closed position and then immediately to the vent position. The exact opposite will happen when you reverse the polarity. It will go from the vent position, close and continue to go fully open. Basically the closed position on the sunroof is more of a halfway point between the motor beeing fully open (sunroof open) and fully closed (sunroof vented). When the sunroof motor is fully extended the sunroof is in the vented position. The trick was trying to make the sunroof stop a the appropriate position (sunroof closed) and not complete its full cycle. Just as the switch does it.
Here's how the sunroof switch works. It has 4 wires, one is a common ground and depending on which of the three buttons you hit on the sunroof switch (open, vent, close) the switch closes contact between the common ground and the corresponding wire for that switch, the sunroof moves in that direction. Behind the sunroof in the headliner there is another set of relays (I think its called the tilt switch relay or something simliar). When you physically hold down the close button on the sunroof switch, it trips the relay in the headliner and when the sunroof reaches the closed position, the tilt relay ceases power to the sunroof motor causing it to stop whent he sunroof is in the closed position. (The sunroof motor, however, is not fully extended). Depending on which button your phsically pushing the sunroof switch tells the tilt switch relay what to and not to provide power to.
Now here is how to make it work.
Wire the 529 like you normally would for a standard window or normal open/close non tilting sunroof. The sunroof will operate, but from the open position it will close then vent. And from the vent position it will close and then open (not what you want). The 529 has 2 (-) output during activation wires. (1 for each side of the 529). If you hook this wire up to the close button output from the sunroof switch the 529 will actually be providing the power to the motor, but the system will also think you are physically pushing the close button ( - output from the 529 to the sunroof switch) causing the tilt relay to act correctly and it WILL stop in the closed sunroof position.
There is a little more to it, but I'm not going to go into great detail unless someone wants me to. For instance, the sunroof switch doesn't have constant power so you have to use the ouput during activation wire to trip a relay and provide temporary current to the sunroof switch. You will also have to diode isolote the ground when armed wire on the 529. Otherwise the 529 will backfeed a ground to the ground when armed coming from the alarm (also tied to the 530T) and the sunroof switch will cause your windows to go up as well. If you don't have a 530 on your windows and you aren't using the ground when armed on your alarm, then there is no need to isolote the 529 with a diode.
If someone wants help on wiring a 529t to their tilting sunroof, I'll be more than glad to provide assitance. It CAN be done and its really not all that difficult (only additional part needed was a relay and a diode). It just took me some time looking at the schematics and trying to figure out how the motor worked in relation to the sunroof switch and how I could duplicate it with the 529. However, I don't recomend this to just anyone but if you can wire up the 529T where the sunroof opens and closes, but just doesn't stop in the closed position, your really not all that far off.
Cheers -Kevin