Passive Crossover Help

Thank you all guys for your input! First of all I'll tell you that my system is NOT a real powerhouse in terms of super high-quality components as my budget is not as good as some people so I had to make due with what I had. So please try your best not to give me the 3rd degree for purchasing what I did purchase. My current system was built in 2001. Head Unit = Blaupunkt San Jose MP41 1 1 1/2 Farad Cap (This is for my Sub AMP...even though it is a little over kill). Go to the Link below for the picture and specs. http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=rocpowercap47v&store=&catid=309 1 1 Farad Cap (This is for my AMP that powers my Front and Rears). Go to this link for the picture and Specs: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000064066/qid=1108997138/br=1-12/ref=br_lf_e_12//104-4281141-2798355?v=glance&s=electronics&n=10981601 Sub AMP = (I know this amp sux, but itt has been doing its job) 1400W 2 Channel American Legacy. You can go here for the Specs: http://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=LA1490 Front & Rear AMP = (Another crappy AMP) Mobile Authority A804 4 Channel Amp. I have a picture of it here, but I have the Specs at the house somewhere since I cannot find it on the net any longer. http://ecoustics.consumerreview.com/Channels/CarReview/images/products/Product_112866.jpg I did have a Mobile Authority 3-3 Active Crossover, but I disconnected it as the crossover slope on the Sub Amp had a higher rating than the Active Crossover could provide (yeah it was a crappy Active). As for Power and Ground Wires, I have 4 Gauge from the front to 8 gauge in the back trunk. I have it everything grounded in the trunk, but I still get ground noise (but the weird thing is that the Ground noise goes away once I remove the Reverse Light Fuse from the fuse box??). MB Quarts are little too pricy for me, although they are high quality. I got a great discount at Fry's from a friend in order to get the Infinities at a good price. BTW, the 2 12" Subs are in a Sealed Box (Seperate Chambers) with 1.25 cuft. airspace. The Box is an aftermarket box made by Durabox. Can you guys help me out with this config and let me know what I should do to get the most out of my system? I plan on upgrading the Sub AMP to this: Sony XM-DS1600P5 http://www.monstermarketplace.com/Sony/Product/176/Landing/610/SonyXMDS1600P5/125/23/46 Along with the Audiobahn Sub, but I may change my mind after hearing that the Audiobahn is NOT the way to go. Audiobauhn has always looked to be one of the Manufactures that had some great products, but I never owned any. Rockford's has been at the top of my list for some time, but the price can get pretty high (I guess you get what you pay for). I'm trying to get the best out of my system while still keeping the price of the components down much as possible, while still getting great wonderful sound (most everybody wants that I guess!!). =) Thank you! Suggestions are always welcome!!

I see.  Well, your HU is nice but I'd get rid of both amps as soon as you can afford to and you probably don't need those caps.  Sony is a step up from what you have now, but I cannot recomend Sony amps at all.  For nearly the same price you can get an Alpine MRD-501 or a PPI PCX-1250 or an MTX 801 or any number of far better mono sub amps with accurate ratings that won't clip as soon as Sony and will last far longer.  Sony ratings are about 100% overstated, and their amps are known for early death and for starting fires. Support the12volt.com

Here is a Picture of My current power setup.Please let me know your professional opinions.

The reason I got the CAPS is because I had problems with my Battery kept draining (This system has been through 2 other batteries not including the one I'm using now). It seemed like I had to replace the Battery every year. Ever since I got this system built with the CAPS, I haven't had any problems (no dimming Headlights even when the bass hits). Had this new DieHard Gold Battery since 2003. I got the CAPS as a suggestion from someone to solve some of my power problems. If I remove the CAPS, will I run into probs again?

And Yes each time I replaced the Battery, they ran an alternator test on my car. It tested fine.

What's the car?  Sounds like your alternator may have tested OK, but it simply does not have enough capacity.  Upgrade your alternator.Support the12volt.com

The Car is a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage DE Coupe. I've thought about upgrading the Alternator, but I do not know how much AMPS or what Voltage to get. And besides they are VERY expensive from the different places that I looked at (Stinger, etc.). Is there another alternative? 2nd Battery with a Voltage Regulator?