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interior rattle


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doc t 
Copper - Posts: 169
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2004
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: March 03, 2005 at 11:36 AM / IP Logged  

is the motor bolted or welded in place and is the motor housing touching the roof at all

if it is bolted you should beable to get some rubber washers to help isolate the mount plate from the body. if the housing is touching the roof place some padding under it where it makes contact. if it is rivited, drill them out and go with the bolt theory. if it is welded....your screwed! 

All Bleeding stops.....eventually!
realitycheck 
Silver - Posts: 751
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 09, 2004
Posted: March 03, 2005 at 1:56 PM / IP Logged  
If its welded WELD SOME MORE, hehe, just weld it together like you were trying to weld the suspend a swing from it. hehehe, nah just playing man.   Yeah doct I didnt find it there either, if you still want it I would just your local roofing supply stores.
Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!
placid warrior 
Silver - Posts: 357
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: March 03, 2005 at 8:10 PM / IP Logged  

i used the roofing material as well, paid 45.00 for it.  i did the roof in strips, i did 2 strips by myself and the other 3 with a bud, one of the pieces i did myself fell off cause i didnt heat it up well enough, but its easily fixable by heating it up again and sticking it in place.  The other pieces are never gonna come off, u can pick at it and wont get anywhere.  so just make sure u heat it up nicely with a household torch. heres a pic the roof on the LTD.  the piece that fell off was the one second from the left hand side, the rest of the bulge looking things are from overheating and messing it up with my hand (hot tar burns) the goop between the pieces is also roofing tar (cheap stuff too) and it hardens up pretty decent.

interior rattle - Page 2 -- posted image.

doc t 
Copper - Posts: 169
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 11, 2004
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: March 04, 2005 at 5:32 AM / IP Logged  
  Looks great, the stuff that i used i was kinda sketchy about putting it on the roof, worring about it comming off on a hot day...which is every day in florida during the summer....and fall...and winter...so i was going to use some adhesive along with it to get a super strong bond. When it went on the floor and walls, it stuck pertty good on the flat surfaces but over the bumps and diviots it wouldn't stick verry well, even after heating it up to the point of turning really gooy. not sure if i want to go the route of the tar, was it hot or cold?
All Bleeding stops.....eventually!
realitycheck 
Silver - Posts: 751
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 09, 2004
Posted: March 04, 2005 at 7:39 AM / IP Logged  
I've kind of had the same problem I looked in the trunk last night at school and 2 of the pieces had come loose but were still in place so I got my roller out when I got home and rolled them back in place. I just dont understand why they wont stick, is there something else I need to do.  I cleaned the area with alcohol,  I heated some of the panels up and some I didnt.  maybe that is my problem I am using a heat gun, should I heat it up a lot more or what????????????????????????????????????  Please help guys im starting on it again tomorrow and need help.
Learning the trade one fiberglass creation at a time!
Master Asylum 
Silver - Posts: 400
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 05, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: March 04, 2005 at 9:20 AM / IP Logged  

FYI: Home Depot doesn't carry Water and Ice guard, atleast not that brand name. Ask for weatherlock. My store carries it at $33.50/100 sq ft. Gonna be checking this out this afternoon to see comparative.

EDIT: This is just an idea, maybe... But I dunno, maybe no one thought about this. Possibly with the piece falling off over time (Heat, whatever) maybe try a thin layer of fiberglass that will fit really tight to it and seal that on. I don't know how this would work, but I'd think this would give a strong holding support so even on the hot days the material has little to no where to move. (I also am not familiar with the enclosing material used to keep any tar material from escaping, so you might need to be willing to compensate for some expansion or even movement in weather changes.) This is in anticipation of living in Ohio, the hellhold of temperature shifting. That's just an idea, LMK if it sounds viable.

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auex 
Platinum - Posts: 5,041
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2002
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: March 04, 2005 at 3:46 PM / IP Logged  
Hunt down and kill rattles you must. Well works rubberized undercoating it does.
I'm bored and can't believe that no one else has done that yet.
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
oonikfraleyoo 
Gold - Posts: 1,069
Gold spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 04, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: March 04, 2005 at 7:44 PM / IP Logged  
Yes master Yoda. You are wise beyond your 300 years.
Nik
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Check it out.
placid warrior 
Silver - Posts: 357
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2004
Location: Canada
Posted: March 04, 2005 at 8:34 PM / IP Logged  

ive used rubberized undercoating in my own car, and it works prety good, but over time it gets brittle and the bass will cause it to lose its max effectiveness, not the end all be all i'm afraid, although it may also vary on the quality and brand of the undercoating bit it would still go brittle over time.  i used motocraft brand what did u use?  for cost versus effectiveness, the roofing stuff is pretty hard to beat.  I wasnt as happy with the rubberized undercoating as i am with the roofing material whichis why i never botherd to mention it, but if there is a better brand then i'll give it a try (if the price is worth it)

the temperature was moderate, we used space heaters in the car and had no problems with curves or anithing...if it got to tight and creased then we just cut the crease out, other than that, no problems.  A heat gun wont work effectively or efficiently, not enough heat and if u do hold it in one spot for it to goo up nice u could only cover a small area at a time....maybe its also falling off because u heat up the entire piece and then stick it on which causes some spots to cool down enough to not give it enough stick.  i would only heat up a max of about 6" square (12" x 3" or whatever) that way nothing cooled down at all. oh yea...the tar itself was cold, this stuff isnt meant to be heated up, but applied with a trowel or spatula (u can also get some that u can paint on, but i figgure if its that thin its not really worth it, but maybe it is..never tried it) and i applied it with a cheapo plastic spatula

auex 
Platinum - Posts: 5,041
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 23, 2002
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: March 04, 2005 at 8:56 PM / IP Logged  
I have used 3M and just shot the areas where plastic meets metal, shot both plastic and metal. The other thing that I have done was used small pieces of felt, glued them to the metal where the panels meet the plastic.
Living in AZ, nothing sticks with adhesive through summer including dynamat super and brown bread. I haven't had a single problem with undercoating in 4 years.
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
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