Toyota Corolla LE 1998 Auto Relay/Starter

If you can post a link to the wiring diagram of your starter unit. We can probably help you out a bit more. "1) How do I connect the two ignition wires, if relay, how and where to connect the relay ? What type of relay, 3/4/5 connection relay, SPDT or other types ?" This is how. Your standard SPDT relay will do. "2) Are all the starter wires just anchoRED / connected to the car wires, or should I be cutting any of these wires ?" Don't cut your starter wire, just connected directly to the car starter wire. "3) Why does the installation require a connection to my air conditioner, if I don't connect it, what functionality am I loosing ?" I don't either. Never in my career had I needed to make a connection like the way it has suggested.     "4) Do I need any diodes or fuses, in the new circuits for a safety or precautionery measure >" Fuse yes and it should be place at the +12V constant source. If one is provided for you, you will not need to add another. "5) If I test these connections, am I risking anything, like damaging my alternator or starter or something else ?" No, testing your wire first is stardard practice and a must. Make sure you have a digital multimeter and don't use a test light. Digital multimeter will not damage some sensitive electronic circuit in your car. "6) Noted a mismatch in the wiring info for my Toyota Corolla 1998 Auto LE. Some sources say that Black Yellow is Ignition #1, and Black-White is Ignition #2, and some say vice-versa. Can somebody verify ? Also does it make a difference in the relay connections as to which is Ignition #1 and which is #2?" Yes, it does. It the difference between remote starting and not remote starting. A wiring diagram below will help you sort things out. Here the way to test. IGNITION 1 - This wire will test with the key switch in the run AND start position, but never in the accessory position. SECOND IGNITION - Second ignition will test one of two ways. It will test with the key switch in run position only, or will test just like main ignition. Like main ignition, it will never show power in the accessory position. If the second ignition shows power only in the run position then the accessory output of a remote start device may be used to power the wire. ACCESSORY - This wire will test with the key switch in the accessory and run position, but never in the start position. Some cars do not have an accessory wire. STARTER - Changes state only when the key switch is held in the start position. Interrupting this wire will keep the starter from engaging. Triggering the wire will spin the starter motor. "7) The 12 V constant, in the starter installations, i got the source from the ignition harness itself, i noted in several places, that it is recommended to take it directly from battery ? Any input from people who've installed their starters ?" For your car, you can take the 12V constant at the harness. If you have other application connection to the 12V constant and can draw a lot of current. Then connect the 12V constant to the battery is recommended. For remote starter/alarm application on your car I always use the 12V constant at the ignition harness. "8) Can I use the tachometer wire behind the instrument panel, or should I be connecting at the ignition coil in the engine bay ? Can I use the battery charge or oil pressure wires behind the instrument panel instead ?" Ignition coil is the least painful way to do the work. Tachometer, use either YELLOW /GREEN, RED / blue, grey, or white at any ignition coil. Wiring diagram below to help you sort things out. DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - TOYOTA / COROLLA / 1998 / Remote Start 12volts white   +   ignition harness Starter red   +   ignition harness Second Starter           Ignition BLACK/ white   +   ignition harness Second Ignition BLACK / YELLOW   +   ignition harness Third Ignition           Accessory blue/red   +   ignition harness Second Accessory           Keysense           Power Lock blue/black   -   R side of fuse box, wht plug Notes: The lock wires are about 18 gauge. They will test only by operating the key in the passenger door lock cylinder, not the rocker switch on the door itself. Power Unlock GREEN / WHITE   -   R side of fuse box, wht plug Notes: The lock wires are about 18 gauge. They will test only by operating the key in the passenger door lock cylinder, not the rocker switch on the door itself. Lock Motor blue      drivers kick panel Unlock Motor red      drivers kick panel Parking Lights+ green      bottom of fuse box Parking Lights- lt GREEN/ black      steering column Hazards           Turn Signal(L)           Turn Signal(R)           Reverse Light           Door Trigger RED / white   -   instrument cluster or Notes: Also found at the fuse box. There are at least 5 RED / white wires at the fuse box, some will only pick up individual doors, meter them to find the one that will get all the doors, it will be the one that goes up to the instrument cluster, it is in a 12 pin plug on the back of the fusebox. For domelight supervision use one of the individual door triggers. Dome Supervision           Notes: Also found at the fuse box. There are at least 5 RED / white wires at the fuse box, some will only pick up individual doors, meter them to find the one that will get all the doors, it will be the one that goes up to the instrument cluster, it is in a 12 pin plug on the back of the fusebox. For domelight supervision use one of the individual door triggers. Trunk/Hatch Pin RED / white   -   light in trunk Notes: On vehicle with the factory alarm, can find these wires at the alarm module above the drivers kick panel. Hood Pin red   -   hood pin Notes: On vehicle with the factory alarm, can find these wires at the alarm module above the drivers kick panel. Trunk/Hatch Release           Power Sliding Door           Factory Alarm Arm arms with lock        Factory Alarm Disarm disarms with unlock        Disarm No Unlock           Tachometer yel/grn, RED / blu, gry, or wht   ac   any ignition coil Wait to start           Brake Wire GREEN / WHITE   +   brake switch Parking Brake           Horn Trigger GREEN/ red   -   steering column Memory Seat 1           Memory Seat 2           Memory Seat 3           Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: No Type: N/A Part #: N/A Notes: N/A        This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter. Directed electronics, Inc. assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information. Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

O boy trouble, one of these unit again. Get Compustar or Autostart unit next time. They have better support. Don't always buy things because they are cheap. You will be very fustrated when you find out that you can't the thing to work. The diagram is very hard to make out. Anyways, I do my best. "Back to question 1 ( Relay Wiring ): - the wiring diagram shows the 6P connector ( brown ) wire going the ignition ( ON in the ignition switch ). So somewhere here is where I'll need the relay for the second ignition." You will need to find the ground wire that only comes on when remote starting( which usually refers to as GROUND OUT WHEN RUNNING WIRE). If you use the ignition wire to switch on the second ingnition without connecting it to the ground out when running wire it will constantly stay on, even after remote the starter has turn off. "- the wiring diagram shows connections to the starter wire, at two different places, one in the 12P connecter ( yellow/red ) which shows a cut to the starter wire ( looks like a starter kill ), and the other in the 6P connector ( yellow ) which shows a direct connection to the starter wire. So, how would I integrate the connections in the 12P and 6P connectors, considering there's a relay involved." Leave the starter wire alone until you have everything working. Do the starter kill afterward. It's not that difficult. It's just a matter of cutting the starter wire and putting a relay in between. Get the basic stuff working first! "Back to question 3 ( AC connection ): "- was informed by someone, that because the AC drains so much power, if it is left on, it might prevent the engine from starting successfully all the time. So this might possibly prevent the AC from starting, until the starter sequence is complete, sounds like a valid explanation, but I'm not the one to say ..." I've heard many things, but never have seen it myself. Possible, if you have a very old car and it does sound very logical. I have not seen it happen with the type of car that you have.     "Back to question 7 ( 12V constant connection @ battery ): - will be installing a window rollup module, once the starter installation is complete. Would this make connection at battery necessary ? If so, then am I actually connecting directly at the huge positive terminal on the battery, what kind of gauge should I be using ?" Sounds like you are putting a lot of toys to your car. Run a 8 gauge wire to the battery + terminal. You will be able to add all the toys you want to for the future. "Back to question 8 ( tachometer, battery charge, oil pressure ): - in the wiring diagram, it shows the 5P connector ( purple ) wire going to the battery charge or oil pressure wiring. In all other generic recommendations, it specified to use the tachometer. Does it make a difference, whether it's the tachometer signal or the battery charge / oil pressure signal. Is the signalling basically the same ?" Sound like a votage/tach sensing wire to me. I really can't tell you. It's an input wire is all I know, so you will not damage anything here if you make a wrong connection. Run it and find out.    Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

"You mentioned the "ground wire that only comes on when remote starting", are you just referring to normal ground connection to one of the different ground points in the car, or is it supposed to be a negative output coming out from the starter. There is a negative output on the starter, but it states that this is the "remote start negative output to bypass module", is this the one. The only other is a black wire in the starters 6P connector, which is supposed to be connected to the car's ground, connecting the relay to this will basically be connecting to car ground." That's the one! Negative output to bypass module. Use that. "I already realized my mistake of purchasing this thing, when I saw the cheap product plastics and one diagram installation instructions, but alas, my first online purchase did not go too well. Looks like you've dealt with this model before ... :(" I don't deal with this product. A lot of questions has been ask about it here because the instruction isn't very clear. If there is no clear instruction and support. To me that is a sign of a bad product.Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

"85     -   Ignition # 1 & Remote Starter ( Remote starter positive output connected with Ignition # 1 )" 85 = +12V constant instead, yup everything is correct. Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.