Ok, I'll take a stab. Ask as many questions as you like. Hopefully, the ones I can't answer, someone else will.
Most alarms do not have alternating tones on the siren. Just a plain siren with raising and lowering pitch while it sounds. Alternating tones is a good idea, because some sounds/pitches penetrade matter differently. With an alternating tones siren, your alarm is more likely to get attention in the event of a break in. On my alarm, you can select up to 15 tones. By default, the siren will alternate through each tone for approx. two seconds each. You can program the alarm to remove certain tones that you do not like. If you want one tone, you just delete the 14 others. Also variety of tones on an alarm, make owners happier... choice.
1. Programming of the RPMs should be done while the engine is running and after it has had the time to warm up to normal running tempeture. This tells the remote start unit when to STOP cranking the starter to try to start the engine. Once the RPMs reach idle speed, the engine should run on it's own. This also helps the remote start unit provide "anti-grind circuitry". It will not attempt a remote start when you're on the highway going 65 miltes an hour, because it can see that the car is already started and running at very high RPMs.
2. Tempeture and Voltage Thresholds - These settings (if enabled) will automatically start your car if the tempeture reaches the set amount or if the voltage output from your batter reaches a set threshold. These are beneficial if you're out of town for a couple weeks and your battery starts to get low, your alarm will start you car for awhile to charge the batter back up. Or, if it gets very cold, the unit can start the car for awhile to warm it up.
3. Crank time - probably self explanitory, but this is the ACTUAL crank time in seconds that the remote start will CRANK your starter to try to start the car.
4. Auto STart Interval - this is the interval, or how much time will pass between the time that your car automatically starts based on tempeture outside and battery voltage (if enabled).
5. Input type - specifies whether you have hooked up a tach wire to the car or not. I think that if you cannot hook up a tach wire, the alarm will just crank for a preset amount of seconds.
6. Engine type is self explanitory- you either have a petrol or diesel engine. If you have diesel, then you can set a delay on the actual cranking attempts on the engine.
7. Battery voltage calibrate - this checks the status of your battery at normal voltage (uses this setting to know when the battery is getting low)
8. Retained accessory power - this setting enables or disables your radio staying on after you shut the car off and take the key out of the ingition - when you open a door, the accessory wire loses power and shuts off radio, etc.
9. Input status & output control view - this just monitors the system for troubleshooting, so you can see what the system is doing and where it's sending voltage without getting out a voltmeter and testing all the wires.
10. start when timer expires - I'm not 100% sure on this because it has to do with diesel engines and I've never owned a diesel engine vehicle, so can't really help ya on this.
Hopefully this information sheds some light on what you're seeking to learn. :)
Good luck!
PS- on the RPM wire, I'd really take the time to FIND the a usable tach wire that can be programmed if I were you. The remote start feature works SOOO much more smoothly when the tach wire is properly programmed and receiving signal from the engine. This is the step for me that usually takes several hours and is quite frustrating. Fortunately, now that DEI and other websites spell this info out for us, it saves many hours of hunting and testing wires.
2002 Toyota Sequoia Limited 2WD (Clifford G5 Avantguard 5 w/ 2 SmartWindows modules) - IT Engineer - NRA Life Member - LDS Return Missionary - Married for time AND ETERNITY - Eternally sealed family
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