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JL Audio Slash or E series amps


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704acc 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 01, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 22, 2005 at 6:35 PM / IP Logged  

Went to the JL Audio web site and read up on the amps.  It seems like the Slash series amps are better than the "E" series amps.  In the Slash series I did not see any D class amps or any which utilized the plug in Remote Bass Control.

1.  Can anyone give me the scoop or point me to a good tutorial on A, A/B, D or T classifications for amps and which is best for what applications?

2.  Which series of amps is best for me? {E series or Slash}

I have {4} 6.75" speakers to power and a single 10" JL 250 watt sub in a stealth box

Ray Kane
racer427 
Silver - Posts: 381
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2005 at 1:56 AM / IP Logged  

I would stick with the Slash series depending on your budget. The *E* series amps are JL's cheaper line and are only about half as good as the slash series.

Chris

Alpine CDA-9833 HU
Diamond Audio M661 Components
MTX Thunder T6.6 Components:rear fill:
Cadence Q400 4 Channel Mains + rears
Thunder 801D Subs
MTX 1004 10's
Dual 4g wire to rear
4g grounds
Lthlquicksilver 
Member - Posts: 47
Member spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2005 at 2:12 AM / IP Logged  

Class D is the best class for subwoofers because they are the most efficient of all of the classes.  They can achieve the most output with a given power.  Class D amps also respond well to impedence drops (like when you bridge it for a woofer or you have dual voice coil woofers).

Class AB and A are the best for speaker/midrange amps.  They have the lowest THD (total harmonic distortion) and achieve the cleanest noise.  As you may know, woofers dont need the cleanest power, but speakers do.  The cleaner the better is always the way to go, but with woofers, power efficiency is just more important.  So...

Subwoofers = Class D amps

Speakers / Midrange = Class AB or Class A amps

Hope this helps.

704acc 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 01, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2005 at 6:01 AM / IP Logged  

Thanks to both for your responses.  

I will go with the better series 300/4 amp from the higher end Slash series for my mids/highs

Here is the confusion - unless I missed something there isn't a D class amp in the Slash series only in the E series.  Should I go for the lower quality amp for the sub {single 10" JL 4 ohm sub in a stealth box} to get the D class or go for a quality amp in A A/B class?

Ray Kane
racer427 
Silver - Posts: 381
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2005 at 10:44 AM / IP Logged  

Not true. The Slash series amps are *D* Class.

http://www.jlaudio.com/amps/pdfs/500_1_MAN.pdf

Scroll to the bottom and read the specifications.

Chris

Alpine CDA-9833 HU
Diamond Audio M661 Components
MTX Thunder T6.6 Components:rear fill:
Cadence Q400 4 Channel Mains + rears
Thunder 801D Subs
MTX 1004 10's
Dual 4g wire to rear
4g grounds
704acc 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 01, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2005 at 1:06 PM / IP Logged  

Thanks Chris, I wish that 500.1 amp would fit in my truck!  I found the PDF for the 300/4 Slash amp and it is A/B.  The 250.1 Slash amp is made just for subwoofers and is a D.  My decision is made! 

Now if I could figure out a way to incorporate a Remote Bass Control knob into the system.  Any ideas?

Ray Kane
tcss 
Silver - Posts: 1,623
Silver spacespace
Joined: June 07, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2005 at 2:16 PM / IP Logged  
The main differance between the Slash and E series is what ohm rating your woofer has. If you are running at 2 ohms the E series would give you the most wattage per dollar. If you are 4 ohms the slash D block would be your best bet. The slash amps use a "sliding power rail" power supply which allows them to produce their rated power anywhere from 1.5 to 4 ohms and anywhere from 10.5 to 14 volts. You will not notice a sound differance between the two differant amps since they both use the same outputs.
racer427 
Silver - Posts: 381
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 04, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2005 at 5:37 PM / IP Logged  

The 500.1 is actually does not have that big of a footprint coming in at 13.4"L x 9.25"W x 2.36"H, Plus you can the bass control know with it as with the 250.1 you don't have that option.

Does your head unit have a built in subwoofer control? If not, you might want to look into a unit that has the controls built in like the Aplines Do. I am running an Alpine 9833 and it hase built in crossovers and sub controls and I love it.

Chris

Alpine CDA-9833 HU
Diamond Audio M661 Components
MTX Thunder T6.6 Components:rear fill:
Cadence Q400 4 Channel Mains + rears
Thunder 801D Subs
MTX 1004 10's
Dual 4g wire to rear
4g grounds
704acc 
Copper - Posts: 55
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 01, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: April 23, 2005 at 10:16 PM / IP Logged  

I mistook the 500.1 for the 500.5, which would have allowed me to run everything off of 1 amp instead of two.

My head unit is an Alpine CDA-9830 with sub outs.  Would it be better to use the Alpine settings rather than the JL audio settings for my system?  Does the Remote Bass Control mak that big of a difference?

Ray Kane
dwarren 
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Platinum - Nominee spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: December 03, 2004
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 23, 2005 at 10:24 PM / IP Logged  

I am pretty sure the knob is just the gain control with a cord (basically)

As far as using the x-overs, you can use either one, deck or amp, it won't matter. Just make sure you use only one, don't double them up.

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