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Power Question for Experts


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Poormanq45 
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Posted: April 26, 2005 at 11:28 PM / IP Logged  
haemphyst wrote:
I am a fan of running an amplifier BELOW it's rated impedance i.e. 4 ohm rated, load it with 8 ohm speakers. This allows a lower THD, better S/N ratio, better damping, and better efficiency. It WILL hit you in the headroom arena, as you amplifier will be putting out less power (on an RMS basis) than it is spec'd for. This will mandate buying TWICE (at least) the power you are really looking for...
ACtually wouldn't running a higher Ohm load INCREASE the headroom? I mean, you're running an RMS power half(8 Ohms) that of 4ohms, but the amplifier still has the potential to put out twice the RMS power, if it is rated for 4 Ohms.
haemphyst wrote:
Bob Carver (of the TFM amplifier fame) really is responsible for my point of view. While developing his power supplies for his amplifiers, he was doing very secret experiments, (which later surfaced in some of the better audio magazines) as to how much power is REALLY necessary to reproduce a waveform from a loudspeaker. I cannot tell you WHERE I read them, (it was while I was in high school - a few years back) but he said that it takes at least than 3600 watts to reproduce (accurately) the "snip" of an ordinary pair of scissors. This was where his 1.0t amplifier came from. In Bob's words - "The last amplifier you will ever need." (Please note that he then developed the Amazing Loudspeaker system, with an efficieny rating of 81dB - they wanted a 1.0t bridged to each one!)
That just seems dumb. WHy not design the speakers to be more efficient rather then increasing the power?
haemphyst 
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Posted: April 27, 2005 at 12:28 AM / IP Logged  
No, because you are running a higher voltage, WITHOUT the need for more current. The headroom is decreased, because your amplifier is only capable of producing ONE HALF the potential output power - 125w vs 250w (just example numbers) Without the LOAD, the current cannot (or will not) flow, this nails the headroom in the ass! Remember power (w) equals voltage (v) times current (i). Without current, there is no power. The current demand CANNOT be equal into two loads... (without a doubling of voltage to push the current up) 8ohms will allow only one half the current through it as a 4 ohm load.
Yes, it IS dumb, this is why I mentioned it. When somebody says something to the effect of "this is the last balh blah you will ever need" and then builds something that needs TWO of blah blah, yeah it's dumb, and self-defeating...
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Steven Kephart 
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Posted: April 27, 2005 at 1:22 AM / IP Logged  

haemphyst wrote:
Bob Carver (of the TFM amplifier fame) really is responsible for my point of view. While developing his power supplies for his amplifiers, he was doing very secret experiments, (which later surfaced in some of the better audio magazines) as to how much power is REALLY necessary to reproduce a waveform from a loudspeaker. I cannot tell you WHERE I read them, (it was while I was in high school - a few years back) but he said that it takes at least than 3600 watts to reproduce (accurately) the "snip" of an ordinary pair of scissors. This was where his 1.0t amplifier came from. In Bob's words - "The last amplifier you will ever need." (Please note that he then developed the Amazing Loudspeaker system, with an efficieny rating of 81dB - they wanted a 1.0t bridged to each one!)

It's been a LONG time since I've read it, but that sounds similar to what was in his True Signature subwoofer white paper.  It's where he was trying to explain how his amplifier produces 3600 watts of power.

haemphyst wrote:
The current view at Harman is "What we have is good enough", but my buddy is trying to change all of that. the amplifiers from Harman are good pieces, but he does not care for where efficiency numbers are heading today. His goal is to produce higher efficiency with other specs remaining where they are right now - low Fs, high power, long throw, etc. Difficult at best, as we all know (with WHAT we know today) we always trade off extension for efficiency or efficency for extension. I am not at liberty to speak of what he is working on, but suffice to say, he is trying to fix what is wrong with loudspeaker technology today.

I don't know if I would consider lower efficiency a bad thing.  Consumers are demanding smaller enclosures without giving up low end extention.  You MUST give up efficiency to do this based on Hoffmans Iron Law.  But since the cost of power is getting lower, it isn't a bad thing.  (BTW, I love my HK receiver)

My boss was designing a crossover for a coaxial speaker for a customer last week.  He did what he could with the crossover, but even still there was a large and wide dip in the upper frequency response.  It made the speaker lose a lot of crispness, and made it sound thin.  He could have fixed that by dropping the rest of the speakers response to match the dip.  But that would drop the speakers efficiency too much which the customer wouldn't want.  So in the name of efficiency, we had to give up the quality of sound.  That's like Bill Gates working by candle light because he wants to save money on electricity. 

BTW Dave, congratulations on the promotion.  If you ever find yourself up here in Seattle, you MUST stop on by.  It was great meeting you at CES, but it was way too short.

Steven Kephart

Adire Audio

DYohn 
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Joined: April 22, 2003
Location: Arizona, United States
Posted: April 27, 2005 at 8:41 AM / IP Logged  

Fun thread.  OK, brands first:

kfr01, for surprisingly good sounding and well designed gear on a reasonable budget, look at Outlaw Audio.  Their HT preamp is superb, and their amps are very good at a nice price point.  I also really like Rotel and want to try out their new HT receiver soon.  Bryson makes some nice amplifiers but are not not in the top tier IMO for their cost.  If you are really serious about clean power and want a stack of seperate solid state amps, look at the pro lines from QSC, Crest, BGW or Crown.  Back to HT, for a few dollars more you can't go wrong with B&K.  There are of course the super expensive esoteric lines like Krell, Levinson etc. but I don't think that's what this thread is about.  The Anthem line is nice although Paradigm's pre-amps are a but thin sounding to me.  In the more commercial receiver lineup HK is probably tops in terms of SQ, and as far as good quality and plenty of flexibility you can't go wrong with one of the better models from one of the big three: Yamaha, Denon/Onkyo, or Pioneer Elite.

I have always really liked Bob Carver's amplifier designs.  I still use one of his 33-year old Phase Linear class A amps for my stereo.  Speaking of inefficiency, you can fry eggs on it after a few hours, but it is clean and I have tested it at 470 watts without clipping and at 1% THD.  I have one of the Carver 400 watt mono magnetic power amps which was a nice toy but the power supply died and I never got around to fixing it so it's now a very heavy paperweight.  I really love the sound of my Sunfire gear and think the Theatre Grand preamp is killer, but Sunfire has been plagued with lots of quality control problems in the past few years.  I also used to run the "Ultimate Receiver" ans while it sounded great, it was pretty hard to set up and use and Sunfire kept issuing software and firmware updates which was annoying, which is why I went back to seperates.

Power.  For most home theatre or stereo listening (unless you have a really large room) 100 watts per channel of clean power is all the average person will ever really use.  Subwoofer amps can stand to be larger, in the 300 watt range, since it simply requires more power to push larger soundwaves around.  Now, that does not mean that 100 watts per channel is all the amplifier you might need, just that most folks are unlikely to use more than that (unless they are running really inefficient speakers.)  Headroom is a good thing, so sizing your amp with at least 25% head room is wise.  The person who said 300 wpc is the best setup is neither right nor wrong as it is totally dependent on the application.    Speaker efficiency is overrated IMO as a criteria for selection...

Here's a rule of thumb for you.  Whenever a manufacturer rep tells you that you absolutely need something, and then backs it up with scientific sounding arguements, and then proceeds to show you how they have EXACTLY the right gear to solve the problem, beware.  I cannot tell you how many spurious arguments I have heard exactly like that.  The truth more often than not is NOT that the gear was created to solve a "problem" but the argument about the "problem" or the "need" was developed AFTER the gear was created to justify the cost of the gear.  it can be a sales tactic that people inside the company begin to believe as some kind of "truth."  I saw it at Creative Labs all the time when I was there.

I need coffee, it's early here in CA.  More later.  Power Question for Experts - Page 2 -- posted image.

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tcss 
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Posted: April 27, 2005 at 12:50 PM / IP Logged  
Great stuff guys. I love this forum because even an old fart like me learns something! Everybody have a great day. Bob
Poormanq45 
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Posted: April 27, 2005 at 2:07 PM / IP Logged  
Stephen wrote:
My boss was designing a crossover for a coaxial speaker for a customer last week. He did what he could with the crossover, but even still there was a large and wide dip in the upper frequency response. It made the speaker lose a lot of crispness, and made it sound thin. He could have fixed that by dropping the rest of the speakers response to match the dip. But that would drop the speakers efficiency too much which the customer wouldn't want. So in the name of efficiency, we had to give up the quality of sound.
Why didn't he integrate an equalizer right into the crossover? I know that this would have taxed the amplifier more, but it would smooth out the dip
haemphyst 
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Posted: April 27, 2005 at 3:35 PM / IP Logged  
Poormanq45 wrote:
Stephen wrote:
My boss was designing a crossover for a coaxial speaker for a customer last week. He did what he could with the crossover, but even still there was a large and wide dip in the upper frequency response. It made the speaker lose a lot of crispness, and made it sound thin. He could have fixed that by dropping the rest of the speakers response to match the dip. But that would drop the speakers efficiency too much which the customer wouldn't want. So in the name of efficiency, we had to give up the quality of sound.
Why didn't he integrate an equalizer right into the crossover? I know that this would have taxed the amplifier more, but it would smooth out the dip
...because once the information is gone, it can't be recovered... You CAN lower the levels of the REST of the drivers, to bring everything else BACK to the same level, but a dip can't be recovered. Gain is a bad thing, especially if you are in a slightly power limited instance... Always CUT, NEVER boost. A good credo. Additionally, if the dip is attributed to a sound-power issue, NO AMOUNT of EQ will ever bring it back. The constructive/destructive interference of the radiation pattern from the drivers is what is causing this, and it cannot be fixed, except with the PHYSICAL PLACEMENT of the drivers relative to one another...
Another thing that MAY have factored in was the off-axis response of this system. Stephen didn't say whether this was an on or off axis response thing. Stephen, was this a co-axial, or uni-axial system? CO, being the tweeter on a stalk in the middle, and UNI being similar to the KEF uni-Q systems of old, with the tweeter buried in the woofer voice coil. Co-axial systems suffer very badly from timing issues, simply due to the distance of the tweeter from the woofer. It can be fixed, but it is usually more effort, and more expense than would be a good quality component set. Was the dip attributable to the effective frequency response of the tweeter, or was it a phase issue? Interesting...
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
Steven Kephart 
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Posted: April 27, 2005 at 3:53 PM / IP Logged  

I don't want to say exactly which speaker it actually is because I can't be seen as talking bad about another company. Power Question for Experts - Page 2 -- posted image.  So I will provide hints for someone to figure out.  It is a coaxial speaker with the tweeters motor inductively coupled, is pretty much water proof, and is really easy to poke a hole into the cone when mounting it for testing purposes (damnit).  I do not know if the voice coils are coincident or not. 

Steven Kephart

Adire Audio

gus1 
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Posted: April 27, 2005 at 6:13 PM / IP Logged  
I'll jump in here as well. I have always favoured headroom. It's good, lets things breathe appropriately. I tend to follow a 2xRMS rule on anything I own (up to a point... but I'll get there in a sec). You will do a lot less damage with an oversized amp running well out of it's danger zone than an amp that is sitting at 80% of it's capacity 95% of the time. For instance. I own a PA company. We do some big shows, and we have big power. Our racks will do an easy 10k RMS in the comfort zone. No red lights, maybe the occasional hit into the limiters on the sub channels once in a while, but no biggie. Now, the sub amps I am currently running are rated at 2,500 RMS/ch into 4 ohms. Each channel is connected to a single 2x18" box that has a program rating of 1200 or so watts RMS. Even though the box "could" get easily twice it's RMS rating at any given time, I know the boxes aren't in danger due to the fact the amps are operating in their comfort zone, out of clipping range. (I wouldn't want to clip these things.... rumor has it they will do upwards of 4k/ch burst... yeouch. Explains the 30A plug on them...)
What does this mean??? Buy the best, and more importantly most power you can afford. I would kill to have a schwack of 4B's in my house. Very graceful sounding amp, not too easy to clip, and enough headroom to satisfy most people (I know of a company not too far from here that has like 16 of 'em driving a monitor rig. They are soo damn smooth on those JBL horns.) Yeah, bit spendy, but you get what you pay for. There are also excellent offerings from Crest, QSC, Rotel, YBA, and you can't go wrong with an old pair of the Denon Monoblocks.    
Remember... doubling your power may not necessarily make it "louder"..... but you definately gain headroom.
My $0.02 rambling cents before GST and PST
Gus
PS: I heard Bryston upped the warranty to 25 years... not enough warranty work I guess. Unconditional, transferrable, no questions asked.
Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
kfr01 
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Posted: April 27, 2005 at 8:25 PM / IP Logged  
Great feedback everyone. Thank you all. Congratulations on the promotion Haemphyst.
So, with the proliferation of all these new amplifier technologies that promise to reduce cost, does it not make sense to make an amplifier investment right now? Will technology and prices have "settled" more in a couple years?
New Project: 2003 Pathfinder
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