Astra 777 Door lock problem

Test the green and blue DL (door lock) wires. They send a (-) pulse when you hit the button. Use a DMM and put the red lead on 12V and the negative lead on the lock wire. Hit the lock button on the remote and see if the DMM jumps to 12V. If it does, then the output is good and you have wired your relays incorrectly, have a bad connection, or the wrong wires.

Cool thanks, I have one of them meters, it never crossed my mind to use it,But on the other hand, I wouldn’t know what went where; thanks to you I can do this tomorrow and check the outcome on it.

Make sure to set the DMM correctly. Set it to 20 on the DC scale. I can't believe you are even attempting an alarm/KE without using a DMM or computer safe test light. You could risk damaging circuitry in your car by connecting incorrect wires. Some things are best left to the PROs

That’s how I installed the alarm so far with my DC meter to figure out the wiring Along with the test light, I don’t know everything but I’m learning. I hooked a couple Clifford’s and DEI’s with no problems with all the bells and whistles I don’t know about the astra’s, are they different in sophistication? Maybe, it really got the best of me. I get to frustrated, not good when doing alarm hook-ups Appreciate the help.

OhioMike1101 wrote: Test the green and blue DL (door lock) wires. They send a (-) pulse when you hit the button. Use a DMM and put the red lead on 12V and the negative lead on the lock wire. Hit the lock button on the remote and see if the DMM jumps to 12V. If it does, then the output is good and you have wired your relays incorrectly, have a bad connection, or the wrong wires.

Well I did what you said with my DC Meter, the alarm is the culprit. I tried the green wire lock output and it pulsed to 12volts for about 2seconds when I pressed the alarm button…no problem there, soon as I tried the negative lead on the blue unlock output the needle jumped to a Constant 12volt all by itself. So that was blowing my fuses and it finally fried my actuators. That sucker unlock blue wire was getting constant 12volt juice. I knew for sure I had the relays wired correctly, I checked, rechecked, checked again and again, and trying other relays, so it was the alarm from the start. Everything else was working fine except for the door-locking headache. What would be some of the causes for that to happen to this wire? I assume there’s no way around that to make that door side lock work again? The warranty is still good for it, I only hope they will take it back for another one. At least I can quite trying to figure out wants wrong with it and take a bottle of Tylenol and get some rest. Thanks for the help.

scytek are usually pretty good. should have no probs getting another

At the risk of offending you, I sold that exact model last year and generally found them to be udder trash. I replaced so many of them under warenty due to manufacturing defects that it was rediculous. I wish I had seen your post earlier because I could have told you that your problem was the brain. I have seen this happen before. I hope your new one works good for you and lasts.double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

Really, I not sure if I want to replace it with another after hearing that, maybe a refund, but, then again I like the features it has, I might take a chance on another one? Just wondering what you said about you had replaced them from warranty Did you replace any one alarm more than once for the same person?

Well I went for a replacement alarm, I figure I’ll give it another try, if this on don't work I’ll get a refund for it. A couple of things that I didn't like was it took the warehouse a whole week to send me a ra Number to send the alarm back to them, and on top of that they made me pay for the shipping.

are they paying for the shipping back to you.. so what do you have to do now just plug in the brain.. Let us know what happens