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I cant get the door lock actuator to work


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zeddiea27 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: May 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 03, 2005 at 2:17 AM / IP Logged  
Alright I have a 1991 nissan 300zx that did not come with power door locks. So I bought a 2 wire actuator to connect to my new alarm system(which I installed, and Is working flawlessly). I have the actuator and two relays connected exactly how it is listed on this site. I hear a clicking coming from the lock relay when I arm the system, and a clicking sound coming from the unlock relay when I disarm the system. So I feel like everything is connected fine. The only problem is, is that the actuator does not move at all! Now I have connected the 2 wires from the actuator directly to the battery to see if it works, and it does extend and compress when it touches the battery. Can anyone figure this out? Could it be my alarm system? Like maybe its not sending a long enough pulse??? Please help.
maglin 
Copper - Posts: 206
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 03, 2005 at 2:42 AM / IP Logged  
ah...
when you flip the wires, does it expand and contract? if so, find out which wire is pos / neg for each of these. Then check the voltage on the wires coming from your relays, make sure they correspond.
you're right, the pulse on the alarm may not be long enough. the guide to it should have a programming option to increase it.
~~Vinn
zeddiea27 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: May 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 03, 2005 at 3:07 AM / IP Logged  

"when you flip the wires, does it expand and contract? if so, find out which wire is pos / neg for each of these."

Im sorry I don't understand; which wires do I flip. And does what expand or contract? And which wire is pos/neg for the relays, or alarm system? I know I sound like a real dumb***, but Im new to alarm systems, this is my first. Also the to get into the programing mode on my alarm my manual says to hit the valet switch, which I don't have, and also an override button which is supposedly on the transmitter, but The manual never illustrates which button is the overide button.

By the, this is the alarm system I have:[[LI|https://images.auctionhelper.com/images/judysdeals@hotmail.com/AT777PIC4.jpg]]

maglin 
Copper - Posts: 206
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 03, 2005 at 3:37 AM / IP Logged  
ok. sorry.
i assumed you have a motor/actuator with two wires coming outta it. when you make one wire 'hot' and the other ground, the motor goes one way. reverse the wires and the motor goes the other.
ah... lemme take a minute and look at your link
most alarm/remote starter kits use like the same manual for all the models of the same class. mine was a 'tap the brake x times, wait x seconds, tap again' programming. irritating as hell. lol.
maglin 
Copper - Posts: 206
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 03, 2005 at 3:40 AM / IP Logged  
hmm... as for your switches, the valet s... agh. lol. its 4:35 am in MI, where i'm from. i'll take a look at this tomorrow. sorry, i'm kinda tired so i'm phrasing shhh all wierd. honestly, i've never seen that kit before, but the basics to door motors / relays is all the same.
~~Maglin
jhgraham 
Member - Posts: 34
Member spacespace
Joined: May 20, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 03, 2005 at 6:47 AM / IP Logged  
Could it be the relays are wired incorrectly? My alarm puts out 12V @ 300mA. A car battery puts out 12V @ 300Amps. Amps = Power
maglin 
Copper - Posts: 206
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 03, 2005 at 10:00 AM / IP Logged  
right right. i was asking if you tested the relays. when you hti the unlock button, one wire from the relays should go hot while the other goes cold, and vice versa for the other way around. this creates the polarity, and reverse polaritiy needed for most door motors.
zeddiea27 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: May 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: July 03, 2005 at 2:46 PM / IP Logged  

"i assumed you have a motor/actuator with two wires coming outta it. when you make one wire 'hot' and the other ground, the motor goes one way. reverse the wires and the motor goes the other"

     Well when the blue wire on the actuator is on pos, and I touch the green wire to negative, the acuator extends out quickly then compresses. So Im not sure it it is supposed to extend and stay extended, then compress and stay compressed.

"Could it be the relays are wired incorrectly? My alarm puts out 12V @ 300mA. A car battery puts out 12V @ 300Amps. Amps = Power"

    My alarm sends a 150ma neg pulse.

"i was asking if you tested the relays"

   How can I test the relays? Thanks for the info guys.

maglin 
Copper - Posts: 206
Copper spacespace
Joined: June 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: July 03, 2005 at 6:10 PM / IP Logged  
... should extend, and stay there until you reverse the flow through the motor when it would retract itself... ah... hehehehe. i'm not sure about your actuators, and don't wanna talk now. My door motors for my locks came outta a old caddy, and i just fabbed something up to make them work. current flows through them one way, the motor extends, the other, it contracts. yours .... door locks right? not hidden door latch? i could see why an actuator would 'return' if it was a door handle or something. agh. i'm not sure if i'm confused or not. lol
~~Vinn
KarTuneMan 
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Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: December 14, 2004
Location: Isle Of Man
Posted: July 04, 2005 at 11:32 AM / IP Logged  
I cant get the door lock actuator to work -- posted image.
DO THIS!
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