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haemphyst 
Platinum - Posts: 5,054
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: August 01, 2005 at 11:46 PM / IP Logged  
You mean to tell me you are using the stock #10 wire across the valve-cover for a 150A alternator?!?!? Dual batteries - Page 2 -- posted image.Dual batteries - Page 2 -- posted image.Dual batteries - Page 2 -- posted image.Dual batteries - Page 2 -- posted image.
Yeah, I'd say that's a BIG issue... They should have told you that the warranty is void if you do not use a power cable of sufficient capacity... At least that's the way it used to be, when I started buying alternators from them... Here is the link to their cable. Decent cable assembly, but I made my own, because I'm anal like that... Nobody makes anything "good enough" for me. 25 bucks is cheaper probably than you could build one for - at least of a good quality like it is... Yeah, go RIGHT to the battery with a #4 from the alternator, leave the stock accessory lead powering the fuse block, and run your amp power off the positive terminal as well. Monster makes perfect terminals for just this type of application. I use a dual post (top/side) battery, all of the accessory leads connect to the top through this terminal, and the alternator and starter connect to the side post...
Yeah, get rid of that OEM wire. It's WAY TOO SMALL... I left mine, so I can put everything back when I sell the car (or the wife gets it - whichever comes first). Just ran a #4 RIGHT to the battery...
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
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