Computer case neon VS Automobile Neon

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mini14

Copper - Posts: 120

Joined: December 31, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: August 21, 2005 at 9:40 PM / IP Logged

ok heres what ya do lower the fuse rating to about 15 if it blows after a while raise it to 20 but u shouldn't have to if its at 25 thats cool it'll protect the car, but may not protect the neons for the switch do you have a dremel or drill? what type of switch are you mounting? if it is a regular toggle switch it should be a round hole so you can just drill a hole in that space and mount your switch it usually wont be a rectangle like that hole the switches normally mount by drilling a hole mounting the switch from behind and screwing on the nut from the front need ne more help let me know

Alpine CDA-9847---Alpine MRP-T220---Eclipse 36201---6.5" Type S Components---6.5" Type S Coaxials---2 10" Thunder6000's Isobaric

hugity

Member - Posts: 14

Joined: June 06, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: August 22, 2005 at 5:20 PM / IP Logged

got the switch mounted. just got one more wiring question. like i said I am using the wires from the back of my cig lighter which run from a fuse.. so the red Positive should go to the switch, which then runs to the red Positive wire on the cathode power inverter. so should i just wire the two black Negative wires together to complete the circuit, is that how it works? I just want to make sure of this before I finalize everything. Thanks again mini14 for your help

mini14

Copper - Posts: 120

Joined: December 31, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: August 23, 2005 at 3:54 PM / IP Logged

yeah you got it! just make sure you always wire cathodes in parallel. this only mean wire all the red wires together for all the cathodes u may have to extennd some wires u can do the same for the black wires if you wish or you can ground them at diff spots doesn't matter but all the red wires have to be getting power from the same source what i would do is run the red wire from the lighter socket to the switch then run another wire from the switch all under the carpet to where all my neons are so say you have 4 neons two under the dash and two under the seats, then you would run the wire and make a big "u" or "c" you know? just have th wire where your neon is so you can tie into it like one would when tying into a wire installing an alarm thats just a suggestion NO SERIES it wont ruin your cathodes it just wont work and it'll leave you confused good luck dude let me know the final outcome.

Alpine CDA-9847---Alpine MRP-T220---Eclipse 36201---6.5" Type S Components---6.5" Type S Coaxials---2 10" Thunder6000's Isobaric

hugity

Member - Posts: 14

Joined: June 06, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: August 24, 2005 at 11:45 AM / IP Logged

i'm just using the 2 cathodes up front for now, i doubt i'll put any in the back. if i do i'll eventually run a longer wire off the switch. but i am all finished and it works great! thanks a lot for your help. i will take pictures later when it's dark out. oh, i couldn't use zip ties because there was nothing under the dash to tie them on to, so for now im just using heavy duty adhesive pads to hold up the tubes (they're light weight enough) until something better comes along.

hype8912

Member - Posts: 7

Joined: February 04, 2005

Location: United States

Posted: September 10, 2005 at 1:36 AM / IP Logged

I have 4 cold cathodes in my honda accord. They are very voltage picky. I had to keep swapping out resistors till i got the right voltage. The amperge on the package was way off. I first hooked it up to my computer to see how bright they were so I would have something to compare it to. I used a relay and a switch to have them come on constant or come on everytime a door opens. The lights would work fine when the car was not running and just going off the battery, but when I started the car they would go out because it was too much voltage. I used a 47 ohm resister I think on one side of the relay that when the car was started. When the engine was running it would go through the resistor and when the car was off , the relay would de-energize and the lights would run off the battery.

I can post up a wiring diagram if needed. I paid 8 dollars for 4 cold cathodes. DO NOT change the length of the wire between the inverter and the light. There is a set capacitance here. The inverter is designed for that specific length of wire.

Oznium

Member - Posts: 24

Joined: November 14, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: September 10, 2005 at 8:29 PM / IP Logged

http://www.oznium.com/cathode-kit

Computer case neon VS Automobile Neon - Page 2 -- posted image.

TCalYen

Copper - Posts: 145

Joined: June 15, 2004

Location: Florida, United States

Posted: October 01, 2005 at 1:45 AM / IP Logged

philbish wrote:

http://www.oznium.com/cathode-kit

Phiiiiiiiiiilllll! Computer case neon VS Automobile Neon - Page 2 -- posted image.

FYI fellas...

Engine compartment has cathodes and neons...

Computer case neon VS Automobile Neon - Page 2 -- posted image.

Cathodes bought from Oznium.com

TCalYen

Oznium

Member - Posts: 24

Joined: November 14, 2004

Location: United States

Posted: October 01, 2005 at 4:38 PM / IP Logged

Truck is amazing Jon! Keep up the good work Computer case neon VS Automobile Neon - Page 2 -- posted image.

mrxclnc

Member - Posts: 8

Joined: August 07, 2005

Posted: October 01, 2005 at 11:34 PM / IP Logged

mini14 wrote:

How can you wire them in parallel with those power inverters. The Power inverters can only hold two neons. I am confused about wiring 4 neons in parallel with two inverters thrown into the equation. A drawing would be nice if anyone has one. I keep frying one of my inverters over and over again. Here is a link to how I did my wiring.. but like I said, one of the transformers keeps getting fried. I cant figure it out.

mrxclnc

Member - Posts: 8

Joined: August 07, 2005

Posted: October 02, 2005 at 9:17 AM / IP Logged

Forgot the link to the diagram

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/D21_scan0001.jpg

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