2005 Nissan Titan door unlock

Clifford Matrix 3.5 hi, i cannot get my door unlock to work properly. i know it takes a double pulse unlock which i have set up. i have the "factory disarm," "unlock," and "2nd unlock" running to the red wire in the door. i have a diode installed on the "factory disarm" and "2nd unlock" with the cathode facing the brain of the alarm. with this setup, i cannot get the doors to unlock. however, when i disconnect the "factory disarm" wire from the circuit, the 2nd unlock feature (2 button presses) unlocks all doors but the single unlock/disarm will not unlock the driver's door.

Power Lock	blue	-	driver door module in door
Power Unlock	red (double pulse)	-	driver door module in door

Factory Alarm Disarm

disarms with unlock

first you don't need the factory disarm wire, second you don't need the 2nd unlock wire, u just need the unlock wire and program to double pulse. if you are woried about R/S don't waste time the 556u by pass the factory alarm during the R/S.how own your mind, control your life.

MECP certified. always use a DMM

how doesthe 556u bypass the alarm during remote start? i thought it needed a single pulse to disarm the oem alarm.

no in nissan, if you want to see  go to the car sit on it open the door, closet the door, press lock the led for security is going to stay on for few seconds and then goes away, so it means the factory alarm is active now, put the key in the ignition and start the car, and you will see the factory alarm is not going to be trigger.  how own your mind, control your life.

MECP certified. always use a DMM

dare_ds69 is right---you're doing way more work than is necessary. --The factory alarm disarms all by itself with remote start. --When you supply a double pulse to the correct wire in the door, the first pulse disarms the alarm and turns on the domelight. The second pulse makes all the doors unlock. Get rid of "second unlock" and "factory disarm"; you don't need them. Connect your regular unlock wire from your alarm to the correct wire in the door----it will show a ground when you twist the KEY to the unlock position. (Yes, use the key in the outside of the door, NOT the rocker switch on the door panel.) P.S. You don't have to run wires into the door for locks on these trucks anymore. Go to the forums at carsound.com, do a search for "nissan bcm" and you will find my trick.

why don't people list these notes when they post the wiring diagram for the truck? i coulda save me some time! :) i don't see why factory disarm is included if it doesn't even need to be disarmed during remote start. i already have it hooked up. does it hurt to leave it wired up? i have it set to double pulse and when i disarm/unlock, it unlocks all doors. i lose my driver priority unlock.

now, i'm having a problem with my door LOCK. when i arm my car, it inconsistently locks my doors. i do notice that if i arm it after i leave my car and it doesn't lock (domelight does not turn off either), i can usually disarm the car and re-arm it to make sure the doors are locked. does this have to do with a domelight supervision issue? also, when i arm/lock successfully, the dome light inside turns off, but the bed light and tailgate light stay on until they time out. how do i get all the lights to turn off with arm/lock. also, where is the trigger for the bedlight located? i was interested in using one my my auxiliary channels to control the light.

mo12v, thanks for the insight. i'm a little annoyed because before i did the install, i specifically asked the question about which would be more beneficial... using the 5wi at the BCM or or just wiring it in at the door. not a single person said that using relays would provide a stronger ground. thanks again. any ideas about the domelight anyone?

btw, how do i need to make the connections at the BCM? i am familar with 5wi at the door motor because i know which is switch side and which is motor side. which is switch side and which is motor side at the BCM?