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Advanced Front Speaker Systems How-to


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jtholley03 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: January 31, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: April 17, 2006 at 8:49 PM / IP Logged  
Here is where I am at:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=243
Of course these will be made nice and neat and fiberglassed in.
I can not say enough about having the sound hit the ears without reflection.
Ribbons and Seas Nextel's are in performing flawlessly. Capacitor protects ribbons on ignition turn on.
gramozeka 
Member - Posts: 14
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Joined: July 30, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 05, 2006 at 4:48 PM / IP Logged  
Hello everyone.
this question is for the originator of this post or other knowledgeable people on here
can there be any discussion as of what Theile-Small Parameters to look at to ensure a good quality of sound in standard locations such as doors kick panels ets.
what are good manufacturers that sell high quality speakers separately. Some of the one that have been discussed earlier make them in 8 ohm versions how do you get around that since it requires more powered to run them.
I am in process of building a good sounding system with emphasis on quality for a reasonable price. And I was looking in to buying all the speakers separately since my stereo (alpine 9855) has digital 2 and 3 way crossovers implemented in it powered by alpines v12 amps. My car is 97 Mitsubishi eclipse and all the speakers have to be mounted in stock locations 5 ¼ all around or 6.5 in the front and 6x9 in the back. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Currently my #1 contender for the speakers are DLS iridium 6.2 for the front but they are kind of a stretch for the budget. Did not figure out anything for the back since DLS does not make 6x9 rated at the same power as iridium’s
thanks!
gramozeka 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: July 30, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: June 05, 2006 at 4:54 PM / IP Logged  
I did not notice how old this post was I am sorry for bumping it up. Good sugestions are still appreciated
jtholley03 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: January 31, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: June 06, 2006 at 10:19 AM / IP Logged  
Dude, I have a 98 Eclipse.
You can fit an 8 in the doors so easily. I made some one off mounts for my Focal PolyKevlar 8's.
I would recommend something fast and light like the Focals.
I have B&G Neo 3's on the dash. Loved the sound and you going active is the best bet!
love base 
Member - Posts: 1
Member spacespace
Joined: August 08, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: August 08, 2006 at 11:15 AM / IP Logged  
oh help first i'm a female and i want to do this myself with help from ya. ok i have 4 twelve kicker comp's in a box, a 1600 watt pyrimid artic, 2 channel now how do i hook this up? and how do i set the amp things on the side to sound good?
brandy cannon
Steven Kephart 
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Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: August 11, 2006 at 2:09 PM / IP Logged  
That's really not a question that has to do with this topic.  Please start a new thread including the impedance (ohms) of the subs and the enclosure size and type you are using.  We can then help answer your question.
kronik66 
Member - Posts: 39
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Joined: August 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: September 02, 2006 at 11:35 AM / IP Logged  
i'm planning on running active crossovers to my components .right now they are running with passive crossovers that have an integrated zobel network and a 3db pad on the tweeter . obviously by going active there will be no need for the pad but what about the zobel? are impedence curves still important in an active system or is the zobel there just to make the passive xover more efficient?
";p
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