first try at fiberglass

Do Bondo knives work, that sort of thing? A buddy of mine bought a dynamatt kit and it came with a little plastic roller he said, reccomended it to me, would it be something along those lines?

They mean something like this (midway down page): http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/category.php?bid=15

There's also this handy article: http://www.alldeck.com/news_techtip_metalrollers.html

The rollers are very good for doing sheet applications.  This allows you to roll out, wet out, a layer of fiberglass before it is applied.  It causes the resin to be pushed into the weave/mat for good saturation.  Or, if already applied, the weave/mat can be rolled into a flatter, more uniform finish.  Keep in mind, the weave/mat serve as an inner foundation if you will.  Adding resin, when cured, results in a hardened uniform shaped product of choice. 

Some people simply add resin to weave/mat that is already stuck to a component.  When adding resin this way, it causes us to glob it on by the masses - resulting in alot of added weight due to the resin(even though you sand it down- I know someone will remark about that part).  Sometimes I do, sometimes I dont.  But when possible, I lay weave/mat down on a large panel of glass.  Guess-timate how much resin will be needed.  Pour this resin/hardener combo in the center of the weave/mat.  Use the roller to push the resin all around to every part of the FG-weave/mat until its fully saturated, as well as rolling the excess resin off of the FG-weave/mat.  When, for example applying this to an interior part, apply pam/wax/non-stick to the panel.  Lay the FG/resin on the part an let cure.  When cured, cut the undesired FG from the required areas.  Even though you may require multiple layers by doing this, by the time your finished you will have a very lightweight and very tough final product.

Just go to your nearest boat repair facility, or call them, ask for what they may have.  Ive found a few a long time back to not have anything, but they ordered one for me...at thier price, and just so happened to be that they had free shipping because they had an account with their supplier.  As for these days with my larger turn-over of fabrications, I found a boating shop nearby that will add my order with thiers...as well as Epoxy/Polyester resins, mat/sheet/weave, whats even cooler is they order in bulk and get a cheaper price by adding your order to thiers (maybe this can happen after you get to know them on a personal level - sometimes ya just gotta open your mouth to see what kind of deal you can get). 

The rollers I use are constructed of aluminum.  They are 2, 3, 5, and 7 inch widths.  They employ roller bearings on both ends of the roller pin (nice feature - Must Keep It Clean!)  Also, the roller pins have cuts about 1/32 - 1/16 of an inch deep, three cuts on the 3 inch roller, this helps the air to escape to these cut grooves as well as giving the excess resin somewhere to float into.  On the non-handle end of the pin, the pin is knurled or rolled, this aids in corner pressure in tight places.  These types, well, the 3 inch is $15.  They last as long as you take care of them...I keep them in a metal can full of dedicated acetone. 

I also made a screened pallet, like a jeweler's cleaning machine, for my acetone can.  When you want a roller or brush, just lift out the screen.  When you lift the rollers, brushes, spikes, clamps, ect out of the acetone, you dont have to dip your whole hand down in chemicals.

PM for more questions, hope this helped shed light on the subject.