2000 F-150 remote start

A couple of queries with installing a Rattler remote start with a 2000 F-150.  I had the starter on my old Dakota, so took it off when I switched vehicles, and installed it yesterday on the F-150.  Things went well except I realized after the install that I was working this time with a Transponder key situation, soon discovering that when it would only run with the key in.

Question #1... if I wait for a while to outwit the transponder, can it cause any trouble on cold nights if I leave a spare key in the ignition so it will start?  I don't want to get into any situation where the computer thinks there is tampering and shuts something down semi-permanently (causing a tow to the dealer to get it reset).

Question #2... I found I have a DEI 555U device (a couple of them in fact) that I got on ebay as part of a bunch of stuff) but I don't have the "antenna" that is to go around the key tumbler unit.  Is that a particular "antenna", or could it be duplicated with a couple of turns of wire from the 555U?

3 to 4 wraps of 18 - 24 guage wire will do

A Relay with wrap around Key & Ignition switch works also..........

http://www.wiringinstructions.com/236.htm

Thanks guys!  Since I have the 555u unit, I'll probably go that route rather than the key-wrap approach. 

In either case, does the transponder defeat (555u, or wiring trick) need continuous power (ignition) while the vehicle is running, or just power while it is being cranked (starter)?

I installed a Rattler remote start on my 2000 F-150, and ran into the transponder in key issue.  I'm going to get around that shortly with a transponder by-pass unit, but noticed in some of the tech info on bypasses that some cars do a "check key" and pick up that there are TWO keys in use when you go onto normal operation, one in the ignition and one in the bypass.  Anyone experienced with the Ford system to know if they do any "check key"?

I guess the process is an extra wire connection from the check key circuit to disable the bypass when you go to normal key, but I'd prefer to know if I'll need this up front.

Thanks.

Thanks KarTuneMan, but the question I had concerns a "key check" sequence.   Apparently some vehicle security systems are aware that there is more than one transponder key int he circuit and regard this as a possible theft attempt (don't know why).  The security brains sense your bypass key, but then also pick up your real key when you insert it in the ignition and finds fault with their being two apparent transponders.  I was wondering if Ford happened to use this system.   The bypass instructions for this recommend finding a wire from the normal ignition key pickup unit that sends the signal indicating a key in the ignition, and tapping that to the bypass unit as a shut off lead so the bypass is disabled as soon as a real key is in the hole.

MO's experience would indicate that Ford likely doesn't use this approach, so I'll go with a normal bypass install and assume it won't mind having two keys around.

Thanks.

However, thinking more about your post, KarTuneMan, I had been wondering where to tap the bypass unit into the RS, and you indicated the "Status Output", which I needed to know.  You were likely then indicating that the bypass would be disabled from receiving anything from this status output a second or two after the normal key was turned.   

My Rattler manual doesn't indicate any + - polarity for the status output, but if it's + I can use if for a relay.  Bypass wants a ground when engaged.   The Rattler also has a 200ma  "2nd status" output that is negative, but I'm not sure how long it stays engaged.  It's programmable for defogger.

Thanks