2000 F-150 remote start

Not sure what Model Rattler you are installing..................But the BLUE wire is NEGATIVE Output for Staus wire.........

This is a 369D and the Status Output wire is blue.    Probably negative then, if you say so!  My Rattler is an ebay model for about $20, so although I have an owners guide, I don't recall a Quick Reference Guide.

This is the second vehicle I've had it on, so I'm fairly comfortable with the basic install (all soldered and taped in a workmanlike manner).  Just never ran into the transponder issue with my old '91 Dakota.  Works fine in the F-150 with the key in the ignition, so I'm presuming a good install once I do the bypass.  I learn a little more every time, but value the experience of you guys on The12Volt greatly.   I'm a believer in doing a lot of research first, and then proceding cautiously.  I don't think I would make much money for my time at an install unless I charged several hundred $$!!!  It used to be that a wiring mistake could cost you a blown mini-fuse, but these days the consequences of stupidity can mean a lot of $$$.   I use the carpenters adage.... "measure twice... cut once."

Thanks!

I downloaded wiring diagrams from a number of sources for remote start install on 2000   F-150 light duty (4.2)

Most agree on wiring colors, except one from Bulldog indicates Ignition 3 as LightBlue/Pink with the instruction "use this wire ONLY if vehicle has rear anti-lock brakes"   (their caps on ONLY)

I had been going with ignition 1 instruction of Dark Blue/Light Green, and ignoring any use of ignition 3, but the instruction above is ambiguous...

Did they mean  1.  You ONLY can make use of this wire if  the vehicle has anti-lock brakes   or....

2.  If the vehicle has anti-lock brakes, you should ONLY use this wire for your ignition wire (not the others)

???????

Can anyone with F-150 experience relate to this instruction?

Thanks.

Power up like you see this:

Ignition Switch Layout:

Further....

I checked the "Status Output" and other leads from that connector when starting, and it indicated + voltage on this model, all of them at about 6.5 volts.  Is that enough to trigger a relay for grounding the transponder bypass?

Seeing this lower voltage, I tried running things by getting 12v from a regular ignition output, but that was dumb on my part, since those wires are still energized back from the normal vehicle ignition when the key is used following RS, so the transponder bypass was still signalling at the same time as the key....  ignition security didn't like that situation.

I see there is a "2nd status/rear defogger" output (-200mA) indicated on the second connector that might be what I am looking for to trigger the transponder bypass without the use of a relay.

Success!  :o)

I had a go at it last weekend and things didn't go well... Stupid mistake-- since I had second thoughts about the status wire, I went for triggering a relay for the transponder bypass with an ignition wire from the RS.  That was wrong because the ignition wire was being energized from the regular ignition as well and therefore the bypass was engaged ALL the time.  Double key, alarm triggering, etc., etc.  When I couldn't make sense of it, I just snipped a wire to disable it, and told my wife I was giving up on it and would take it out later.  Later, with just a bit of thinking I realized what the problem was.  You don't think as well upside down on a truck floor.

Actually, I read the posts last week by the fellow having trouble with another F-150 and giving up, abandoning several trucks he had lined up and offering to sell stuff.  I said, "No way!  I've got to beat this thing."  Half an hour after work this evening and it appears to be working fine.  HA!

Thanks MO in particular!

Now that things have gotten cold and I'm actually starting to use the remote, I find there is still a lingering problem. 

The truck starts fine, but stops two minutes after starting.  The minimum running time on the Rattler setup is 12 minutes, so I don't think it's that (time setup).  Something seems to be taking place at the two minute mark.... any suggestions?

What if there is residual voltage on the brake wire?  What are the approaches there?