magic box that boost the alternator?

sorry guys gave the rong info well that is wy this forum has people like dyohn and tcss. il let you guy take this one.Want to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend

On the12volt you give some info and you get in

sedate wrote: Oh yea.. back the topic of "magic boxes" ... I once heard about a guy using an Alumapro 5 farad CAP to reinforce.. get this.. not his sub-amp.. but his cars' electrical system. Like, he ran the thing to the wiring harness of this cars battery, not back in the rear with amps.

That COULD be done, with no guaranteed benefit... I have considered doing it myself. It would ONLY be effective at filtering noise, and ONE SHOT high current pulses...   the kind you get when you turn on your headlights, or step on the brakes. It COULD maintain the system voltage for situations like that, much the same way people think they will do that for their amps. Personally, I think that'd be just as effective as using a "stiffening" cap for what it was "designed" to do. The same capacitor/power/filtering rules apply to ANY electrical system... loaded with accessories (amplifiers) or not. If the SOURCE (the alternator, in the case of the automotive environment) is not up to the task, the entire system will suffer, and the power source needs to be upgraded. End of story.

sedate wrote: Of course, this brings up another bug-a-boo I've never gotten real straight on: the proper behavior of DC current.. some people akin it to water.. more pressure in certain parts of the system than others correlating to demand... this logic leads us to conclude that the CAP would work well in this situation.. the CAP between the lights and battery, instead of the amp and battery, would reinforce the lights no? DCs' transmission/distance difficulties would support this line of thinking ... ?

The "pressure" is akin to the voltage. The "volume" would be akin to the current. The more pressure present (higher voltage) the more volume (current) can and will flow in a given hose (wire), until the hose bursts (or fried wire). There ya go. Easy peasy.

sedate wrote: Others akin it to a unified system.. a voltage drop somewhere in the circuit is a voltage drop everywhere.. since electrically speaking, the circuit all looks like the same 'point' ... this logic would lead us to conclude that a CAP at that stage of the electrical system would be just as effective.. or ineffective.. as a CAP sitting 2 inches from the amp it is meant to reinforce.

A voltage drop at one point in the system will indeed manifest itself at all other points in the system. The saving grace to this will be the actual wiring of the system. The actual resistance of the wire will "filter" the drop at the source. i.e. If you are using a wire RATED for 100A, but you are trying to pull 150A through it, the voltage drop will be SIGNIFICANTLY higher at the load end than the source end. If you are pulling the same 150A load through a wire rated 200A, the voltage drop at the SOURCE will more closely reflect the voltage drop at the load, due to the lower resistance, and the higher current carrying ability of the larger wire. Aditionally, if all the wire in the system is OVERRATED, ANY voltage drop at ANY point in the system will be noticeable in the rest of the system.It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

my badWant to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend

On the12volt you give some info and you get in

Im going to throw an hand in here an say that "box" may very whell be a battery, , you know, , that thingy with that white mold growing from the metal thingys....2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

Can't see how that will do anything either. Basically, the unit you linked to is a "smart" trickle charger. When it sees it's input side x#V above static (meaning, the main battery is charging, so vehicle is running), it then connects to the other, auxilliary, battery and charges it.    Essentially, it is an intelligent battery isolator for all intents and purposes..... can't see how it will boost an alternator's output. Perhaps buddy picked up a Jacobs Accuvolt and is using it to hammer his system with a constant 15V or so all the time. Gus Wherever I go, that is where I end up......

Not to mention the fact that at 20A (which was the maximum current capacity I saw) why would you choke your expensive high dollar alternator down to a 20A output? Makes no sense to me...It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

ya that is true. i dont see how a 15v curent would do enything eather except for make the amp take up more power. i have a friend that has something like a fuse that regulates the amount of power that is going to the amp. makes it so that it dosent draw more than a set watts. i dont know what it looks like though it could have looked like a box but i dont know. PS: your saying thing at the bottem is funny "carefully packed surrender flags"ha ha ha Want to know some good equipment- JL,Adire Audio,Mcintosh,Brax,Helix,Eclipse,JBL,RE,Dimoand Audio,Zapco, pritty much anything DYhon,Forbidden recommend

On the12volt you give some info and you get in

still an accuvolt is just a step up transformer. does nothing to boost ampere.