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what battery to choose


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j_darling2007 
Copper - Posts: 210
Copper spacespace
Joined: January 21, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 06, 2005 at 2:16 PM / IP Logged  

I would take the advice of the more experienced members of the forum like sedate.  It sounds as though he has had experience with both types of batteries you are considering, and by his number of posts, it shows he has a pretty good idea of what he is talking about.

Jacob

There are 3 kinds of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't
sedate 
Silver - Posts: 1,173
Silver spacespace
Joined: July 03, 2004
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: December 06, 2005 at 9:53 PM / IP Logged  
Uhh. *Yawn*
Ocuriel wrote:
Sure a yellow top will crank over an engine, but was it designed for cranking a engine? no.
I'm sorry, what is it you are talking about? Cranking an engine? Are you talking about CCA's? Cold Cranking Amps? The Yellows' 750 to the Red Tops' 800? It takes all of 50 amps to start an engine I think both batteries have it covered.
what battery to choose - Page 2 -- posted image.
Our handy dandy graphic here tells us that both batteries will supply something on the order of 15-times the power required to start your engine right after it is tapped for juice.
Again, I'm not sure the reason for the confusion. The Red Top, if tapped for instant voltage, will produce a bit more in a surge than the Yellow, but again, the Yellow can actually be dischared and recharged again and again far below the point a Red can and still function. THIS IS WHAT YOU WANT FOR CAR AUDIO, PERIOD. The Red Top, a standard SLI battery, will die if you drop it much below a 10.5v charge or so. It'll never again be able to hold a load at a steady 12 volts. The Yellow on the other hand can take the *constant* pull and still be recharged, again and again.
Buy the Red, you'll probably be perfectly fine. Again, you only have a single amp. If you want a battery designed for car audio use, buy the Yellow. Again, the Deep Cycle charging ability is *certainly* worth the extra $40...
"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
speedwayaudio1 
Silver - Posts: 879
Silver spacespace
Joined: March 18, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2005 at 2:39 AM / IP Logged  

i say forget the red or yellow or blue or what ever color comes up next. Go to Autozone and get a 800cca Duralast and call it a day. save some money for that ho alt. I have run Duralasts for years, very good batt and trouble free. plus a 3 year replacement.

Big Dave
alpine0000 
Copper - Posts: 160
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 06, 2005
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: December 07, 2005 at 8:17 AM / IP Logged  

yellow top is a better battery than the redtop all around. only difference (the thing that makes the red top a better starting battery) is that the red top has 50 more cca's. do you live in alaska and need the 50 more cold cranking amps?

however, im not putting either in my car. im putting a Kinetik 1800 in my car. KILLS any battery optima has ever made.

i have owned two yellow tops in my life, and was an installer for 3 years. after putting enough Kinetiks in customers cars, i have decided to get rid of my optima.

if you want to be a believer, go to http://www.kinetikaudio.com/

Ocuriel 
Copper - Posts: 141
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 01, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2005 at 6:26 PM / IP Logged  
That's funny, that does contradict what i'm trying to say.
I'm studying to become rv (recreational vehicle) tech certified for my job (claim adjuster). the instructor mentioned that a deep cycle (yellow top) is meant for constant amp draw for interior use such as tv's, fridge, sound system & so on, but not good as good as a regulator battery for cranking/starting purposes as the cranking battery will provide a bigger burst of cranking power (assuming both batteries are the same rating.
But his teachings does contradict the above posted data.what battery to choose - Page 2 -- posted image.
jonchos 
Copper - Posts: 256
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 28, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2005 at 8:58 PM / IP Logged  
It is funny how simple question turned out to be so controversial. I really do not what to do now. I think I am just staying with my stock battery, hahahaha. I live in az so I really do not need that many cca's. Maybe when I add an extra am I will re-think getting a battery, red on the front, yellow in the back. And maybe by then I will be able to get an HO alt. By the way, any ideas on what Alt to get? Thank you guys.
sedate 
Silver - Posts: 1,173
Silver spacespace
Joined: July 03, 2004
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: December 07, 2005 at 9:00 PM / IP Logged  
Ocuriel wrote:
as the cranking battery will provide a bigger burst of cranking power
Oh man! AHAHA someone gets PAID to tell ya that?!
Jeeze you believe I wait tables? Anyone wanna get me installing? Come on someone reading this has to own a shop! Look at the nuggets I'm parting with for free!
<sigh>
Anyone attempting to authoritativly define power as "cranking" should be smacked. Watts, joules, kinetic, electrical... ANYTHING other than 'cranking' sheesh....
Ocuriel, in one sentence, if I really had to tell you the difference between a Yellow and a Red:
The Yellow can dip below 10v and be recharged, the Red cannot.
"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
jonchos 
Copper - Posts: 256
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 28, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 07, 2005 at 9:07 PM / IP Logged  
the lowest volts I got from my battery while my cap was draining it was 13.06V in my multimeter. I do not know if that helps you guys to gide me. 
sedate 
Silver - Posts: 1,173
Silver spacespace
Joined: July 03, 2004
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: December 07, 2005 at 9:58 PM / IP Logged  
jonchos:
hehe sorry for the thread-jack...
Okay look here's the scoop:
Your lights dim NOT b/c you don't have enough power, but b/c the power you do have is being consumed in random, big gulps instead of a steady drain. As such, even though there is MORE than enough power in your car, the lights dim with the bass b/c there simply isn't a way to electrically isolate the big gulps from your sub amp from the steady stream going to your lights. Big alternators, huge caps, blah blah blah... this is one of those problems that is seriously HARD to get rid of.
Even with an HO alt, you still have to deal with nasty spool issues (they never make proper voltage or amperage at freakin idle) which frequently make the light dimming far worse... even tho the alt might make 300 amps at 2000rpms...
...anywho... If you wanna spend money somewhere jonchos, a Deep Cycle *is* your best place to start.
"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview
haemphyst 
Platinum - Posts: 5,054
Platinum spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 19, 2003
Location: Michigan, Bouvet Island
Posted: December 07, 2005 at 11:07 PM / IP Logged  
James, James, James... You are a smart guy, and your input is sound... for CONVENTIONAL BATTERY WISDOM. The Optima is deep cycle capable, simply due to it's contruction.
jonchos, here is your answer... Buy the red top, and save the extra 40 to 60 dollars for connectors and terminal blocks... While this post is answering the question of installing multiple batteries, the answer describing the Optima battery is what I am specifically referring you to.
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."
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