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Door Locks keep blowing fuse


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vidguy 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 11, 2005 at 1:11 PM / IP Logged  
I recently installed 4 door lock actuators and an alarm in my Daughters Saturn.
The alarm works fine. BUT..
The door locks only work fine for a while. A couple of days. Then they blow the 10 amp fuse. I made sure to get BUSS fuses, so they are not cheapies.
I have the Power for the Locks fused with the provided 10 amp fuse. I get that power from the same ignition power wire that the alarm gets its power from. The alarm never blows a fuse.
The control box for the LOCKS plugs into the Alarm control box.
The Actuator rods SEEMED to move freely during my pre button up testing and I can still manually work the locks and they feel like they are not binding.
The kit did not come with a relay.
When I ran the wires from the actuators to the control box, I connected the Right front and rear together and I connected the Left front and rear together. These two sets of wires are then presented to the control box.
Any help would be MUCH appreciated.
Thanks,
James
fingaz22 
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Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 11, 2005 at 1:26 PM / IP Logged  
what do the actuators pull for amps? seeing when you unlock the right or left side you are controling two at the same time and depending on the amparge they pull you could be slowing over loading that 10 amp fuse. causing it to fail premiturly. you did not use relys ? i'm almost sure the control box is where the relays are. and you may want to get your power source directly from the battery.
JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
Platinum spacespace
Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 11, 2005 at 6:27 PM / IP Logged  
Power from the ignition switch would be fine, buit i'd question the 10 amp fuse being big enough for 4 actuators. Try a 15 and see what happens.
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
vidguy 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 11, 2005 at 6:30 PM / IP Logged  
Hi thanks for the reply. You're probobly right about the relay/control box.
Would it be bad to just put nin a 15 map fuse and try it? Is that why you suggest going right to the battery? for more amperage?
How would I test for amperage? I have a meter. I am just not sure how to test for amps. If you can describe that I would like to try it.
I may try going directly to the battery. Is that common practice? Can I ask why that might help?
Thanks so much
Thanks,
James
vidguy 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 11, 2005 at 6:32 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the reply. You posted as I was replying.
Thanks,
James
fingaz22 
Silver - Posts: 410
Silver spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 11, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 11, 2005 at 6:41 PM / IP Logged  

well it might be common practice for some and then not others. i personaly would rather have my power source from the battery because of adding unnessary draw on that ignition wire but it really wouldn't matter for more power (more amps)in that respect.

to test for amparge draw you will need to set your meter to an amp setting and operate the acuators while having one probe to the actuator power wire and the other probe to the feed from the control box. you will need to disconnect the actuator and have the probes inline with it.

this setting is only found on higher end meters not the 20 dollar ones you find at discount price. i would do as mike m2 has suggested and upgrade the fuse and see what happens 15a is good i wouldn't go any higher than 25a. 20a sounds like it's where it should be. good luck let us know what happens and if you have any more questions.

JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs
vidguy 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 11, 2005 at 9:07 PM / IP Logged  
Thank you fella's. I'll try the test and probobly use a 15 amp fuse.
I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks,
James
vidguy 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: December 11, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 09, 2006 at 10:33 AM / IP Logged  
Just a report back that I upped the Fuse to a 15 and that certainly helped! Thanks!
Now what has been happening is every few darned days I have to go out and reset the system to get the system, both alarm and locks to work...The Fobs just seem to lose their functionality.
Thanks
james
Thanks,
James
jimmy0x52 
Member - Posts: 22
Member spacespace
Joined: February 07, 2006
Location: United States
Posted: February 09, 2006 at 11:14 AM / IP Logged  
I'm just about to do the same thing so I wanted a bit of clarification - do you have 1 10 amp fuse per pair of actuators? Or 1 10 amp fuse for all four?
2003 Dodge Neon SE
K&N + CAI
Power locks, trunk and some LEDs soon.

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