Bench testing system w/scope and fn.gen

You WILL occasionally have recordings that are as loud as the reference 0 db level you set the system up to handle.  I know I have made CDs that I downloaded and burned to disk that have reached those limits.  And I can also think of some store-bought CDs that are at the threshold.  So, no, it's not a moot point to set up the gains correctly.  You are not supposed to set everything up by the book and then go and readjust them by using a music source.  You might as well set up your system like a rookie to begin with if you're going to do that.

The point being made at BCAE1 is that you are likely to find a lower level of output when playing most music sources than you found using the 0 db reference.  That's a no-brainer.  But this is also a no-brainer:  buy a more powerful system if the output of what you are currently using is not loud enough.

And....I will emphasize again that you should listen for the clipping signal as well as looking for it on the scope.  You'll be surprised at how clearly you'll hear it using a sine wave.  All for a well-rounded experience, and a way to double-check.  Personally, I don't have a 'scope, so I double-check by reading voltage output and using Ohm's Law after I've listened for the clipping.  Guess what?  It's always on-the-money.

Sorry for the long delay for a response, I'v been busy installing! Your explaination makes sense, thanks. I regretfully don't have my subs in yet, but did finally get my 6.5" Infninity components in. I still need to install the door panels, but I should have it wrapped up by tomorrow. I'm going to throw out some questions that have come up along the way.

First, I used 1/4" lexan for the 6.5" adaptor plates(originally active 4x6" in the doors), and installed some dynomat(it was cheap) on the adaptor plate itself. Is this really going to do any good? Should I put the remaining on the surrounding door metal?

I'm using a Clarion 50rms x 2 amp to power the components. Is it of any benefit to set the gains as we have talked about for mids/highs? IIRC, the cross-over is set to LP/HP 3.5kHz. Coming from an electronics background, I would have imagine reactance would come into play for the different frequencies. Also, since I do listed to a variety of music types, is it still best to output a flat response for this tuning(even though I may jack the bass, or treble for certain CD's)?

Lastly, I'm not using my rear deck speakers... is it better for me to disconnect them and use '0' fade, or fade full front? Is the front RCA output level-shifted higher when full-front vs '0'?

Thanks for reading,

Jamie

For the dynamat, if you have it- definitely do the metal of the doors.

Yes, set the gains as stevdart posted.  A 3.5 kHz crossover point, that sounds like the crossover from the mids to the highs, not the crossover on the amp.  It'll be set to either LP or HP- high pas or low pass.  Start with the same crossover point as your subs (if you're using any)- usually around 80 Hz, high pass instead of low pass.  It's best to set the eq settings (bass/treble) before the gain.  If set properly, you don't need to fool around with it after that.  If you do, you may need to adjust the gains again because it can cause the signal to clip earlier.

If you're not using your rear speakers, remove them to help allow the sub bass into your passenger compartment better.  If you don't have a sub/subs it really doesn't matter.  You won't gain anything from fading it all the way to the front- it'll only make the rears quieter- not the fronts any louder.