the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

Bondo and bodywork


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
wazzucoug 
Member - Posts: 5
Member spacespace
Joined: August 19, 2005
Posted: December 14, 2005 at 2:29 PM / IP Logged  
I just finished the first couple layers of glass for my roll pan.  I have made a few F.G. speaker boxes in my past, but I have never done body work with it.  After glass, what is the next step with body filler?  I assume bondo is the way to go, but I also know there is a science to sanding and more sanding.... (IE: grit of sandpaper, layers, etc)   What are the steps for bondo application after fiberglassing?  Any must have tools, or brands?  Thanks!
DukeDuke 
Silver - Posts: 206
Silver spacespace
Joined: November 01, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: December 14, 2005 at 5:13 PM / IP Logged  
Do a search. Any body filler will work, however the majority of people are going to say "RAGE GOLD XTREME" but it is a matter of preference. The rage gold is easier to sand. If you are wanting something nice go to a Sherwin-Williams Auto Paint store. Tell them what you are doing and they will sale you everything you need.
Duke Duke
jlord16 
Silver - Posts: 322
Silver spacespace
Joined: September 08, 2005
Location: Australia
Posted: December 15, 2005 at 6:19 AM / IP Logged  

Every one says bondo is *THE* filler but rage gold produce a very good product, its just preference, sand paper to rough sand back the filler would be like 36-40 grit then like a 80 or 100 grit, refill the inperecetions and go a grade lighter in sandpaper and repeat unill a smooth finish is obtained, many people prefer differnt sanding methods

Clarion DB36MP
Infinity Kappa Perfect 10"
Respone 800w Mono
ALPINE MRP-F250
*Custom fabrications*
mi_what 
Copper - Posts: 208
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 15, 2005 at 2:25 PM / IP Logged  
I have heard great things about rage gold. However, they don't sell it where I'm at (san antonio) so you may be out of luck with that one. I have found that bondo professional works great...better than regular bondo that is. When you get to sanding, you are going to want to knock down alot of bumps and ridges with low grit (40 works best for this stage) then hit it with 60, 150, 220, apply spot glazing putty, then sand that with 320. After that I normall jump to 800 then apply high build primer. Other people do it differently working their way up higher but I just don't have time most of the time. It takes time to get to the point where you are happy but patience will turn out better.
XessiveCivic 
Member - Posts: 9
Member spacespace
Joined: July 02, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: December 21, 2005 at 2:17 PM / IP Logged  

Understand that the Rage Gold is made by Evercoat and can be bought from any Car Quest autoparts store.  If the do not have it in stock, you can have them order it from one of their specialty paint stores.  You will also need to buy Evercoats metal glaze to get it as smooth as metal.  The Metal glaze is almost as liquidy as a malt liquor.   I just got through finishing a customers box on Monday and used the products before the primer fill and Base coat clear coat paint.  Good luck and take your time.  If you get frustrated just walk away because you will most likely creat more work for yourself if you don't.  Use sand paper like listed above.  Hope it helps!

Chris

Xessive Audio Concepts
mi_what 
Copper - Posts: 208
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 22, 2005 at 7:09 AM / IP Logged  
XessiveCivic wrote:

Good luck and take your time.  If you get frustrated just walk away because you will most likely creat more work for yourself if you don't. 

Chris

Ah, such words of wisdom. Bondo and bodywork -- posted image.. I have done that numerous times in the past and regreted it later. I'll have to try carquest. I went everywhere...Advance, Autozone, Pepboys, NAPA; noone has even heard of it. So I ended up buying Bondo professional gold, worked for me, but I gotta try that rage gold
hex0rz 
Copper - Posts: 94
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 01, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 22, 2005 at 3:15 PM / IP Logged  

Hmm, interesting. I really would'nt say there is no best product. Almost any body filler product is going to be good. The crucial thing is the proper mixture with hardener.

I usually use feather-rite. Not sure which company makes it...  I was taught a rule of thumb for every golf ball size of filler, 1 inch of consistent hardener. Give it a nice mixing up, and make sure everything looks uniform. The color(depening on which hardener you are using) should'nt look too cold or too hot.

Apply the filler over a given area, and make sure to really press the first pass in. (Give you good adhesion) Make sure your spreader matches all the contours of the material to be filled. Give it a nice 20-25 minutes before you sand or apply more. If you put more than a golf ball on at a time the drying to will be longer. If your not sure just feel it is tacky.

Once you finish what you wanted to fill, get to sanding! (Although, I got to say this. If you put on more than an 1/8th of an inch of filler, you are going to be at high risk of the filler falling off and/or making cracks through the paint) Usually, I will take a 40 grit, no more no less, for my first. Work out the high spots, any bumps, etc. Just the large and noticable imperfections. Do not try digging out any of the little pinholes if there are any. Once you are satisfied, go to an 80 grit. Keep on working it with this as often as you can until you just barely have what you are looking for. If you were going to go for the smooth as a babys ass, use 180 grit. I really dont go with anymore higher grit than this. Once you primer, base and clear it, any scratches or imperfections get filled.

Well, I just wanted to write my own guide in and enlighten some of you. In reality though, this is the same method I use on cars in the body shop. It works fine. You dont want to spend all your time using 1000 grit when the paint would have looked good when you stopped using 80...

Vehicle: Mazda B2200 1989 X-Cab
Audio System:
1. (2) MTX TA3401
2. (2) MTX Thunder 7500
3. (1) MTX TA3202
4. Eclipse Fujitsuten SC8264 Component series
5. Pioneer Premier DEH-P770MP
mi_what 
Copper - Posts: 208
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 20, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 23, 2005 at 9:57 AM / IP Logged  
hex0rz wrote:

(Although, I got to say this. If you put on more than an 1/8th of an inch of filler, you are going to be at high risk of the filler falling off and/or making cracks through the paint)

If you are going to be building anything that needs 1/8th inch body filler, you aren't using the right stuff. You need to fill low spots with kitty hair (bondo hair) it is fiberglassed re-inforced body filler...especially with body work. I recently extended a body kit 4 inches down and only had to use two thin coats of bondo to finish it. I find that it saves time to give it a quick hit with 180 and higher grit, but, it all depends on the high build you are spraying.
total_overkill 
Copper - Posts: 93
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 24, 2005
Location: Canada
Posted: December 23, 2005 at 8:52 PM / IP Logged  
If you ask me any brand will do. It is all in the amount of hardener you use. Also if you really want to save alot of sanding go over it at about the halfway dry period with a 40 grit sandpaper to smooth out what you want before it hardens and get the bumps out..
40 grit has saved my life sometimes =[
ragoal12 
Copper - Posts: 135
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 23, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: December 23, 2005 at 9:21 PM / IP Logged  

wow u guys r crazy if you think that an 1/8th inch of bondo will chip... if its applied wrong it will crack and chip off.. but when done correctly it works fine.. you should be applying that much every time before you sand.. if not.. you must be spending alot of time adding filler.. then sanding and adding more filler again..

any product is good... i use evercoat materials like duraglass and the metal glaze.. i use good old fashion bondo from walmart as a medium filler.. the others r bought from the local redshaw paint supply... for a high build primer dont get cheap and buy some shhh from walmart.. go to the local paint supply and buy the a dupont high build or a quik prime as they r both high build primers and work very well...  i don't recommend getting cheap because if your going to paint your project this is the beginning step of the paint process and everything else you do builds off of it... me and my friends won't touch anything but dupont products.. they may cost alil bit more than some things but they r very good products.. however many people like house of kolor or PPG products.. to each their own.. just don't buy the cheapest thing to save money.. make sure its the right stuff!!!!!

S.O.B custsoms.. South Omaha, Nebraska
Page of 2

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Sunday, December 4, 2022 • Copyright © 1999-2022 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer